Reuse lug studs - yay or nay? (1 Viewer)

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Spook50

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I've always installed new studs whenever changing out my front rotors on my 62. I would this time, but if I can get away with reusing them, I'd like to get the job done without waiting for a new set to be delivered. Just curious if this is even a wise move or not. If definitely not, I'll just get a new set ordered. Brakes are pulsating pretty bad though and I've got a set of new Brembos sitting in my shop that I can quickly throw on with new calipers in an afternoon. I'll be using a press to remove and install the studs. I don't do the lug nut or brass drift methods.
 
My preference is to use new studs if they have to be pressed out. I have no reason for doing that other than they're what keep the wheels on ... I don't mean that to be flip, I mean I'm just too anal about such things to take a chance, though I'm sure many many people reuse studs (that look ok) without issue...
 
with a known history of when you last did them and if they look great I would re-use them too. It's the studs you don't know about that I would change every time. Like when you buy a truck and do the first brake job.
If they are rusty at all I would use new also.
 
Yeah I should've mentioned that these were put in about 6 years ago and I used a press rather than beating or twisting them in. Think I'll just go ahead and order new studs. I won't be able to do my brakes this weekend like I had hoped. Big storm coming and my garage is too full of other people's crap for me to bring my truck inside :bang:. So now I'll have to for new ones to be shipped.
 
I'm as cheap as they come - but think about how many times wheels have been torqued, how many corners taken, etc. I put about a 20 year life span on them.
 
I just installed the big brake kit on my 62 and re-used 4Runner IFS hub studs that I had. I was less than pleased to know I didn't order studs. Something I'll have to get to eventually.
 
While lots of people re-use wheel studs after replacing a rotor, there's not an insignificant risk of possibly stripping the splines down the road when trying to remove a tight nut.
When the stud gets pressed (or pounded) in, the stud splines round off their sharp edges a tad. Then when removed, more of the same. Then when reinstalled... more of the same.
A re-used stud definitely doesn't have the same grip on the hub as a brand new one. Whether it'll strip and spin in the future when trying to repair a flat on the side of the highway is the million dollar question.
Rusty/high friction lug threads will increase the risk.


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I apply anti-seize to lug nut threads and rust really isn't a big issue in socal so I guess I'm lucky in that regard.
 
While lots of people re-use wheel studs after replacing a rotor, there's not an insignificant risk of possibly stripping the splines down the road when trying to remove a tight nut.
When the stud gets pressed (or pounded) in, the stud splines round off their sharp edges a tad. Then when removed, more of the same. Then when reinstalled... more of the same.
A re-used stud definitely doesn't have the same grip on the hub as a brand new one. Whether it'll strip and spin in the future when trying to repair a flat on the side of the highway is the million dollar question.
Rusty/high friction lug threads will increase the risk.


View attachment 2177404
Yeah that was my train of thought. Save myself the possible aggravation for the cost of a few bucks. Now that I have time to wait for them to be delivered I'm just gonna do it.
 
I apply anti-seize to lug nut threads and rust really isn't a big issue in socal so I guess I'm lucky in that regard.
I’m confident that you’re aware of this, but for those that aren’t, torque spec is assumed for dry threads unless otherwise specified. Applying a lubricant will decrease the required force to tighten correctly.
 
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I've always used a *dab* of anti seize on lugs/studs and reduced torque by 15% (what is recommend) and never an issue. I've done this on all my vehicles including VWs that have the odd 'Lug Bolts'.

I also use a small amount on the knurling and under the head when studs are pressed in. Again, no issues, but as Randy sez, So. Cal. so it's not really a problem with rust.

If you use an Air Gun to remove/Replace lug nuts, there is a much greater chance at galling or daming the studs than if you do it by hand
 
I've always used a *dab* of anti seize on lugs/studs and reduced torque by 15% (what is recommend) and never an issue. I've done this on all my vehicles including VWs that have the odd 'Lug Bolts'.

I also use a small amount on the knurling and under the head when studs are pressed in. Again, no issues, but as Randy sez, So. Cal. so it's not really a problem with rust.

If you use an Air Gun to remove/Replace lug nuts, there is a much greater chance at galling or daming the studs than if you do it by hand
I understand the anti seize, but why do you torque it to less than spec?
 
As others said, lube lowers the torque spec as the spec is calc dry (more friction). Any nut/bolt where antisieze is used and there is a 'dry' torque spec should be reduced about 15-25% Some say as much as 30%. It depends on the material you're threading into or onto. Alum or Brass I'd reduce way down, like Spark Plugs into Alum head.

 
Seth,
yes, I am aware of the wet and dry torques. If you paid attention in my garage there is actually a chart posted for this. :D
 
If you use an Air Gun to remove/Replace lug nuts, there is a much greater chance at galling or daming the studs than if you do it by hand

Yeah that's why I will only ever use a press. Smooth out, smooth in, straight shot both ways.

Giggity.....
 
meh, hammer did fine. I looked over at the press and then slammed em in.
 
I almost always reuse studs.
 

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