Retrofitting factory rear diff lock

KSV

Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Messages
91
Location
Down under. Melbourne.
What need to be replaced to do this? My impression that diff + diff housing is enough. But one wrecker told me that whole axle need to be replaced because it is different inside. Is it true? Also is all diff from 80 series interchangeable? I mean all cars have the same final ratio (i.e. diesel / turbo diesel / petrol; auto / manual trany; different modifications GLX / Sahara etc.)?

Thanks
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2003
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Boston Mangler recently completed an excellent write-up on this. Should be in the 80's FAQ by now, I'd think.

Edit: I just checked, and it is not in the 80's FAQ. Mods, *please* add Boston Mangler's writeup. He spent a lot of time on it, it is very thorough, and it should definitely replace the comparatively useless retrofitting thread that's already in the FAQ.
 

Rookie2

 
 
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Dec 15, 2003
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Is there a way to print Mangler's writeup so it fits on 8 1/2" x 11" paper? I've printed it, by the right side is cut off.

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
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Rookie2 said:
Is there a way to print Mangler's writeup so it fits on 8 1/2" x 11" paper? I've printed it, by the right side is cut off.

Thanks,
Rookie2
Try copy and pasting it into MS Word, that has helped me print stuff like that in the past. There is also a "Print To Fit" option somewhere in the print menu!
 

Beowulf

 
 
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Somewhere in the foothills...
Rookie2,
If you haven't tried the Firefox browser you should. It will print OK using FF. If this isn't an option for you then PM me and I'll create you a PDF and e-mail it to you.
-B-
 

Beowulf

 
 
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Boston Mangler said:
Some of the 80 series area moderators got some personal beefs with me, so i wouldnt count on it getting added to the FAQ, i dont know what their deal is, but whatever!
BM,
The mods work hard to keep the forum running smoothly and posts in the appropriate place. If you'll treat them with the respect they've earned I am sure your life here will be a lot easier.

If you'll recall, you and I had an off-line discussion after you came crashing in here acting like a juvenile. We quickly mended fences and I have no problems with you but you shouldn't publicly lash out at the moderators and expect nobody to say anything.

-B-
 

powderpig

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If you are only swapping in a pumkin and bit, you will also have to cut and grind on the housing and weld in some extra meat in another and drill and tap some holes. The easiest way is to take the whole axle houseing with the diff and just swap it out. Saves alot of work and buying the stuff at higher rates fi bought in single parts. later robbie
 

KSV

Joined
Feb 28, 2005
Messages
91
Location
Down under. Melbourne.
Thanks :)

Boston Mangler said:
Buy your parts for this from Cruiserdan! He was a great help and resource!
Thanks - does not work, cos I am in Oz :)

I have not decided yet what to do - fit factory ones or 3-rd party. I like to have factory lockers, but prices from wreck just ridiculous - he wand sell me whole lot for price almost twice higher than fully fitted 3-rd party!

Thanks again
 
Joined
May 21, 2004
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powderpig said:
If you are only swapping in a pumkin and bit, you will also have to cut and grind on the housing and weld in some extra meat in another and drill and tap some holes.
If he is only doing the rear, no "Meat" will have to be added and no holes will have to be drilled.

That is only for the front!

powderpig said:
The easiest way is to take the whole axle houseing with the diff and just swap it out. Saves alot of work and buying the stuff at higher rates fi bought in single parts. later robbie
I STRONGLY disagree here!!

NOTE: I am speaking about the REAR diff (which he asked about) not the front! The front is a different story!
 

karryss

 
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
198
front is the hardest part if you don't have the whole axle assembly for elocker. I did drill, tap for the 4 new studs location, and grind notch to fit the the 3rd into the stock housing. The rear went pretty easy since it was a complete swapped.
 
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