- Thread starter
- #61
Hypothetical question. If the EGR were to go missing would I have to straight pipe my exhaust? (Cat Delete)
Resurrection of a 1991 FJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BreezyF
- Start date
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You wouldn't have to. Most of my emissions system is missing and my egr is non operational, still have my cats.
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- #63
May be a dumb question but I’m going to be removing the rocker arms/rail to install new valve stem seals. I hope I can get to that back valve. Regardless, while i have it removed should I retorque my head bolts for funsys
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- #64
Sneak peak she looks like she should with her miles… not saying that’s a good thing. Got called in before I could get it completely off gotta move a few wires. But we are still progressing!
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- #65
Another question m. Tried to find pcv valve hose I had to cut off because it was somewhat rubber welded on. I found this part number 1226161060. But doesn’t seem to have anywhere legit to buy it. Any insight? Thanks
here you go.
don't forget the gourmet also
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- #67
I appreciate it, but I’ve already got the valve and the grommet I need the hose portion that connects to it.
oh gotcha.
see below..
I would not disturb head bolts on an operating engine because it may cause a failure of a bolt or a gasket. That's a hard no.
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- #70
I saw that but didn’t think it was a legit place to order from.oh gotcha.
see below..
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- #71
That’s what I figured but I saw some things where people “maintenance” the head bolts while they were removing all the rocker arms. You just validated my thought tho. Thanks!
There are a few engines that require a second torque after so many hours, but those are typically diesel big truck engines, not a 3F.
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- #73
Any suggestions on a different tool that will fit in all nooks and crannies for when I do my valve stem seal job? This looks to me like I can get most but not the very rear. Has anyone done this with the head on? What low profile tool did you use?
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- #74
Little update haven’t had time in my busy life to devote to the ole gal. Prepping for valve seal job on cylinder number one and then the rest. Don’t have the rocker arm assembly off yet, but prepping. I do have shop air and the ability to flood the cylinders with air to keep the valves up but I’m scared if I lost air id drop a valve and have to pull the head which I’d rather not do. Therefore I’m going with the rope/string method. Which I can leave in place if I have to. Does anyone have any better idea to rotate the motor? Everything is in the way and I have bottom plate off. Right now I’m using a pipe wrench to turn the crank but I’d prefer a different method but there is no room. Any past experience better alternatives?
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- #75
Asking for a little help here. How do I know how far to seat these seals. The first picture is with one still on and the other off. I can see where it used to sit but no way to tell if it’s set in the right place. The last picture is one it looks I set too far down and is damaged (I have since removed) just looking for some help to know. Thank you
I don't have that in my FSM, maybe someone else has that page.
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- #77
I don’t as well only reason I’m asking kinda strange to me
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- #78
This is what I have. It shows it seating flush, but none of mine are flush at all. Maybe they worked their way up?
I don't know if you figured it out or not but you might try posting a thread in the 60 series forums. Some of them had the 3F
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- #80
I appreciate you checking in. Went with what “felt right” in terms of seated. Compressing the valve springs was not fun way more stuff than anticipated to get the keepers on. 2 down 10 to go
