Resurrecting HZJ75 Air Conditioning System

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Jan 5, 2019
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Central Valley, CA
My 12v Australian HZJ75 has factory AC but I have no idea how long it's been since it was last charged and functioning. The compressor, AC climate controls, condenser, dryer, and lines look complete. But for as long as I've owned it, the AC was empty and the lines were disconnected and hanging open near the condensor. I'm guessing there's a fair bit of dirt and crud that may have collected in there over time.

After a long roadtrip last summer using my homemade swamp cooler (a 12v fan, some cooler pad, and a spray bottle of water) my passenger declared no more roadtrips until I fix the AC. The Troopy can be a bit of a greenhouse.

Taking it to an AC shop may cost a small fortune that I'd rather spend on beer and tools and spare parts so I think I'll tackle this myself. Looking at partsouq and toyodiy I see multiple options parts for my VIN.

My plan/questions:
  1. The lines all look good so I'll just blow out any dirt/dust with air.
  2. Condensors are expensive so I'm going to just blow mine out with compressed air and keep it.
  3. Dryers are cheap so I'll replace mine. Part #88471-34010
  4. Should I replace the pressure switch in the cooler box? I see 88645-12020 (no longer available) and 88645-34010 listed. Can I use 34010?
  5. And then there's the compressor itself. Rebuilding it looks like a real project. Should I pull the compressor and take it to an AC shop for rebuild? Buy one from Toyota? I see 88320-60340 (no longer available) and 88320-60560 listed. Not sure what the difference is. Or should I buy a general Denso compressor and swap the manifold and pulleys over? What is the Desno part number?
  6. Once I've got the parts, plumbing, wiring in place, I'll take it to a shop for pressure test and charge.

What do y'all think? This will be my first AC project.
 
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Does the compressor kick on?

The problem is; if there's still dirt anywhere in the lines and it works it's way to your new pump in the PAG oil, you're in for a world of s***.

Always replace the dryer if it was exposed.

When you get everything together you can rent a vac pump from Autozone and test the system to hunt down your inevitable leaks.

A/C is intimidating but fairly easy.
 

John Young

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You definitely want to pull the expansion valve. They are about 25 bucks and something good to replace. Besides if you just push compressed air through the condenser you likely will do something awful to the expansion valve.
If it were me personally, I would pull the condenser and clean it thoroughly inside and out. I've seen a bunch of oil accumulated in there that you want to get rid of. I'd carefully flush all the lines without the dryer or any component connected to it. Not sure what you should use to flush. Maybe acetone? Something that will evaporate and not leave any residue.
I believe that the pumps in particular are highly sensitive to contamination. You being in dusty central California likely have a lot of dust in there.
RE the pump, I'd try to just replace rather than rebuild. It is pretty old by now and they disconnected it for a reason.
 
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Following this thread with interest. I'm actually in the same situation: My A/C is known to be sitting uncharged for at least 6 years.
I plan to try to get it working in spring and also wonder what to check on before taking it to an A/C shop to be tested and charged.

To the matter here:
I wouldn't use Acetone. It's quite aggressive and will kill almost any gasket, O-ring and plastic part in the system. It will also not fully evaporate any more in that enclosed environment.
No idea on what to better use, though.
 
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Does the compressor kick on?
Unsure. I have tried to avoid engaging the clutch since the lines were open but if i am just going to replace it I'll sacrifice this one to see if the wiring is ok.

The problem is; if there's still dirt anywhere in the lines and it works it's way to your new pump in the PAG oil, you're in for a world of s***.

Good point. I think this is my biggest concern. Maybe i can replace the needed components and ask an AC shop flush and charge the system?

You definitely want to pull the expansion valve. They are about 25 bucks and something good to replace.

Roger that.

If it were me personally, I would pull the condenser and clean it thoroughly inside and out. I've seen a bunch of oil accumulated in there that you want to get rid of.

Clean or replace? A new one is about $400 or 240 microbrews, but i y'all have me thinking now as I dont wanna trash a new compressor. Is it feasible to clean and reuse?

I believe that the pumps in particular are highly sensitive to contamination. You being in dusty central California likely have a lot of dust in there.

I imagine mine is filled with a mix of California wildfire smoke particles, dried roo turds, and Baja trail dust.

RE the pump, I'd try to just replace rather than rebuild. It is pretty old by now and they disconnected it for a reason.
I think the reason is neglect but you're probably right that i should replace. A new one from Toyota is about $500 but i wonder if i could save a couple bills by gettimg a Denso part and swapping needed components over.
 
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It's bit of work but, if you;

Remove the condenser, lines, and evap
Clean them thoroughly, like super thoroughly.
Reinstall with a new compressor, new o-rings everywhere, dryer and switch.

I'd say you'll be golden.

I'm almost positive there's a cheaper semi-equivalent compressor out there but you may have to swap the fittings plate over. Same thing we did for my 1HD-FTE, it has a 1FZ compressor. I'd look into a 1FZ unit. So it'll probably work for you too. No promises. But a 1FZ unit is significantly cheaper than buying a 1HZ unit from Toyota.
 
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It's bit of work but, if you I'd look into a 1FZ unit. So it'll probably work for you too. No promises. But a 1FZ unit is significantly cheaper than buying a 1HZ unit from Toyota.

I pulled out all the AC components from under the hood and plan to visit an AC shop tomorrow for advice/parts. My compressor is a Denso 147200-2061 (aka 10PA15C I think). It is the short nose style, measuring 2.1" from the front of the compressor housing to the center of the pulley.

I believe the 1hd-fte uses the long nose compressor (2.5") a different compressor so I am guessing the 1fz unit wouldn't fit. But I saw in another thread that the FJ62 3FE compressor fits. I will make some calls tomorrow and talk to @orangefj45 for ideas too.

edit: struck out some misinfo
 
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I'm almost positive there's a cheaper semi-equivalent compressor out there but you may have to swap the fittings plate over. Same thing we did for my 1HD-FTE, it has a 1FZ compressor. I'd look into a 1FZ unit. So it'll probably work for you too. No promises. But a 1FZ unit is significantly cheaper than buying a 1HZ unit from Toyota.

I was finding lots of ideas but nothing solid online so I grabbed a tape measure and started comparing compressor housings, measuring the distance from the center of the front mounting bolt to the center of the pulley. Here's what I found:

  • I looked at several 1HZs and a PZ, measuring ~2 1/2". This is what I need.
  • FJ62 3FE is ~2 1/4"
  • 80 1FZ is ~3 1/4"
  • 80 1HDT is ~4"
I also measured a 1HZ swap with an aftermarket compressor. The owner used a 94-96 4-cylinder 3.0L 4Runner compressor (NOT the 3.6L) whose offset was short by ~1mm, which he solved with a small washer. I'll go this route if I have to but I'm trying to keep things OEM-ish.
 
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I was finding lots of ideas but nothing solid online so I grabbed a tape measure and started comparing compressor housings, measuring the distance from the center of the front mounting bolt to the center of the pulley. Here's what I found:

  • I looked at several 1HZs and a PZ, measuring ~2 1/2". This is what I need.
  • FJ62 3FE is ~2 1/4"
  • 80 1FZ is ~3 1/4"
  • 80 1HDT is ~4"
  • I didn't have access to a 1HD-FTE with a compressor but per
I also measured a 1HZ swap with an aftermarket compressor. The owner used a 94-96 4-cylinder 4Runner compressor, whose offset was short by ~1mm, which he solved with a small washer. I'll go this route if I have to but I'm trying to keep things OEM.

First off, this is really good info for future folks.

Keep in mind the mag clutch is swappable and will change your belt engagement area. For example, will a 5VZ compressor body and a 1HZ mag-clutch work? No idea. Just brainstorming ideas to look at.
 

Indestructible 47

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AC compressor shouldn't kick on without pressure in the system. They have a built in saftey switch. I would be looking at why it was taken apart, the magnetic clutches and compressor bearings seem to be a common failure point on the compressors. Gas is cheap, clean out the system as best as you can put a new dryer in it and take it too the AC place and get them to charge it. That should then tell you exactly what needs to be replaced without throwing every new part available at it. But if it's been sitting without gas for a while I'd take a guess and say the compressor is done.
 
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I was finding lots of ideas but nothing solid online so I grabbed a tape measure and started comparing compressor housings, measuring the distance from the center of the front mounting bolt to the center of the pulley. Here's what I found:

  • I looked at several 1HZs and a PZ, measuring ~2 1/2". This is what I need.
  • FJ62 3FE is ~2 1/4"
  • 80 1FZ is ~3 1/4"
  • 80 1HDT is ~4"
I also measured a 1HZ swap with an aftermarket compressor. The owner used a 94-96 4-cylinder 3.0L 4Runner compressor (NOT the 3.6L) whose offset was short by ~1mm, which he solved with a small washer. I'll go this route if I have to but I'm trying to keep things OEM-ish.

FWIW, I have two 24V compressors that fit on a 2H:

10P15C-based compressor 047200-4800
047300-2330 24V clutch
60mm front mounting bolt to pulley centerline
~142mm OD ~115mm Vdia

Also:
10P15C-based compressor, 047200-8760
047300-2330 24V clutch

I have no idea what the difference is between an 047200-4800 and an 047200-8760. Neither are original to this vehicle.

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Northcliffe, Western Australia
I was finding lots of ideas but nothing solid online so I grabbed a tape measure and started comparing compressor housings, measuring the distance from the center of the front mounting bolt to the center of the pulley. Here's what I found:

  • I looked at several 1HZs and a PZ, measuring ~2 1/2". This is what I need.
  • FJ62 3FE is ~2 1/4"
  • 80 1FZ is ~3 1/4"
  • 80 1HDT is ~4"
I also measured a 1HZ swap with an aftermarket compressor. The owner used a 94-96 4-cylinder 3.0L 4Runner compressor (NOT the 3.6L) whose offset was short by ~1mm, which he solved with a small washer. I'll go this route if I have to but I'm trying to keep things OEM-ish.

I just measured some of mine.

HZJ75 1HZ 2.5"
1985 BJ73 2.25"
1984 LN65 2L 2.25"

The latter 2 compressors are longer than the 1HZ one. New 1HZ compressors are readily available aftermarket here in Australia for AUD$250ish.
 
Joined
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96
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Central Valley, CA
Good stuff. Let this thread be the authoritative source for Land Cruiser AC compressor sizes.

For my '90 HZJ75, I looked at a few options - adapting a 4Runner compressor, buying an inexpensive aftermarket compressor from a Chinese company, or a Denso one (which I am told is actually manufactured in China as well). The AC folks I talked to would sell me either but liked the Denso best.

I opted for a Denso unit ordered from Coolstream, although I did have to pay a bit more for the Denso brand. My hope is that I will tear down and reassemble the AC once and only once. We'll see if I got the right one once it arrives.

I've also got a condensor, dryer, expansion valve, and a high pressure switch on the way from Partsouq.

The vendor I went through also suggested that most older Denso's can be rejuvenated with a simple reseal (shaft seal, body seal, maybe a couple others?) and a new clutch bearing. I may give it a shot as we have clean space to work and all the needed tools at the shop.
 

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