Results on Conversion of 350 from Carb to Fuel Injection (1 Viewer)

pb4ugo

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TKF shows to be either a 78 350 165hp 4bbl or 75 2bbl 145hp. Both are supposed ,to be van or bus applications. I think there's a good chance it's a 4 bolt, but it is what it is & sounds like it runs excellent. Have fun with it. I agree w/ SBG that your plug wires are poorly run. I can't believe they weren't fried during the dyno run. W/rams horns I prefer not seeing them on top of the engine. IMG00110-20110607-1836.jpg
 

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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Thanks everyone for the mentoring on the motor. Never dealt with a 350 short block before. I really don't understand why the PO put so much money into a rebuild when a better engine could have been had for new, but that was his $$ and not mine

I moved the spark plug wires back, but the gap was more than the picture showed, still they were close

I am happy with the setup, but curious if there are small changes that would boost the performance or is even worth considering.

I typically tow my camper with my 100 series, but could tow it up the mtn passes with this if it had a bit more power

The way I think of the system is the Block and Pistons, The heads, the fuel intake and the exhaust system. I have already taken care of the fuel system. If you do something with the block, might as well just change the engine (right??), Not sure headers would do any good based on the current engine performance, so wondering if swapping the heads with Vortec heads would do anything. Not planning on anything right now, just wanting to understand options for the future should I decide to do anything
 
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There is no way I'd change the motor in your vehicle - just optimize it.

Vortec, or similar, heads. There are several aftermarket companies that knock-off the GM design. If you use a knockoff, you can keep your intake because the Vortec head uses a slightly different bolt-pattern on the intake. There is no better head for a stock motor. If you have low-compression pistons (you might) the increased compression will give you 50-75 hp and an equal amount of torque. If you already have better compression pistons (which, given your stockish hp numbers, I doubt), you'll get better mpg and 20-30 extra horses.

You can do a "while you're at it" change the cam, but I actually, wouldn't.

Headers, long tube, would give you another 40 or so hp.
Both of those, together, are about $1,000 ($600 for the heads, $400 for the headers - don't cheap out on headers). If you have someone install them, you'll be out about another $1000 in labor and muffler shop charges (these are all estimates, and probably a bit high).

One thing to consider, FJ40s are a short-wheelbase vehicle and towing trailers with a short wheelbase requires perfect steering and attention to the road at all times. With a pickup, suburban or similar long-wheelbase vehicle when the trailer sways or follows the ruts, it takes more leverage to get the front wheels to join in the swaying. With a short wheelbase, there is enough and it will put you on your top (add Load range D tires, and 15" rims and that increases the likelihood). There are bandaids like sway bars for trailers. Tandem axles help too... however, a short, light trailer isn't a problem - so it depends on what you're towing.
 

Romer

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excellent, thank you

I am running Doug Thourley Headers on my 100 series and that did make a difference along with a custom larger diameter exhaust
 
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Are those dyno numbers measured at the rear wheels?

(Not taking anything away from your build or the motor) It seems very surprising that the HP numbers are at 149 / 107 HP) that seems very low from a V-8.

Maybe all of the "claims" of 300 - 400 HP V-8s after a performance update are just that, but even if they came in at 250, are you loosing that much power throught the drive system (transmission / transfer / DS / Differential / Axles / Bearings)?

Thanks -

Rocky
 

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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I didn't do a performance update, that's not what I was after with this mod. The HP is at the wheels, not sure front or rear

The HP numbers are consistent with the small block. There are better small blocks for performance, but this is what came with the truck. On a fresh rebuild, didn't make sense to change it out right now for one with better performance. Driving it around, not sure I need it, but I haven't driven up a mtn pass yet
 

pb4ugo

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If your HP numbers are from your rear wheels, keep in mind you are turning the driveline, power steering pump, alt, big tires & any other accessories bolted to the engine. They are all HP robbers. Probably the biggest draw on hp in your case is the elevation of where you live. The engine is a big air pump, anything you can do to help it breathe will be helpful, especially at 5800+ feet above sea level. Personally I'd just drive it & enjoy it. Then determine what your next move is, if any.
 
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the hp is consistent with an early 80s truck motor... 179 from the factory, 149 at the wheels, 20% drive train loss. As for 400 hp, that's not easy on a 4x4 vehicle (well, it's easy but useless). 450 hp to the wheels in my C3 Corvette with a head, cam, and sidepipes... of course, the motor is useless at anything less than 3500 rpm, and will surge and cause all manner of ill-behavior under 3000 rpm... but it is 450 hp (at 6500 rpm).

the motor I'm building for my FJ40 is a 9.5:1 compression, vortec head, 300 hp, 420 lb torque motor that is all done at 4500 rpm.... this is probably my 20th motor that I've built to this pattern, and dyno'd at least 3 of them...
 
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If you wanted more power I would have done mods to it before you had the efi tuned. Towing a camper with a Cruiser sounds sketchy with the short wheel base at highway speed. Better watch your engine temps too.
 
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self-tuning efis are pretty adaptable... their issue arises when you put one on a high-compression, radical cam motor (sigh). I went back to a carb on my Corvette and get better mpg (that is mile per gallon, not miles) - the added benefit of the carb is it doesn't wash down my bearings and fill the crankcase with fuel.

but you are right, more power = more heat.
 

Romer

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If you wanted more power I would have done mods to it before you had the efi tuned. Towing a camper with a Cruiser sounds sketchy with the short wheel base at highway speed. Better watch your engine temps too.

I wasn't looking for more power, it seems more than enough. I was asking the question if in the future I wanted more power what items should I address. I can see now that wasn't clear when I added the camper in. I had to add a Supercharger to my 80 to tow my camper of the passes and now my 100 series does just fine. I likely won't look at adding more power. I want to drive it for a while as is because I think its enough, but I am an engineer by trade and we are always looking at potential options :D

I do appreciate all the suggestions. I am new to small block GM engines. I have dug into the 2F, 1FZE and admired my 2UZE as it hasn't had any issues :D
 

Romer

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Finally got back to this and took a picture of the Block ID.3970010

Also (as posted earlier): this is what is stamped on the engine on the passenger side
C5E443128 V0724TKF (? Not sure on last digit)

Appreciate the knowledge base.

Block.JPG
 
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Finally got back to this and took a picture of the Block ID.3970010

Also (as posted earlier): this is what is stamped on the engine on the passenger side
C5E443128 V0724TKF (? Not sure on last digit)

Appreciate the knowledge base.

View attachment 949205
The first 9 numbers are from the VIN number from the car it came from. The last ones (starting with a V) are the vehicle it was in - an educated guess is a truck motor... thus a 4 bolt main, 8.5:1 compression ratio motor. 010 (the last 3 is generally 4 bolt main 350 - but there was an 010 block out there that was in 70-2 Chevy wagons).
 

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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The first 9 numbers are from the VIN number from the car it came from. The last ones (starting with a V) are the vehicle it was in - an educated guess is a truck motor... thus a 4 bolt main, 8.5:1 compression ratio motor. 010 (the last 3 is generally 4 bolt main 350 - but there was an 010 block out there that was in 70-2 Chevy wagons).


Thanks!
 

Romer

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When I changed the oil it came out rather thick. Looked like someone had added something. Then after the new oil I developed leaks everywhere. Oil Pan Gasket, valve covers and now the rear main

Having it looked at by the guys who did the MPFI install, they noticed it was also blowing out more smoke than it should. They did a leak test and said the rings were not providing a great seal. They were surprised since it supposedly had a rebuild 2500 miles ago (Two years). The PO gave me receipts for $5700 of work.

It has been driving tired. Not sure of how to describe it, but you can hear the idler arms like its low on oil, its not.

Working with the shop I trust, I am going to replace the core engine utilizing the MPFI and other components on this one. They will be able to utilize the existing wiring.

The cost to basically build a like new rebuilt from the ground up 383 is about the same as the cost to rebuild this engine, and I will have more HP and greater torque.

Just a lesson on my part, key reason I bought this rig was I thought it had a rebuilt like new engine to start

After I bought it I found out the PO bought it from Eddie Moore with a fresh rebuilt 400 and after a few miles his shop recommended he rebuild it. BUT the 400 was replaced with a low end 350. That was my first clue that something fishy was afoot here. The thick oil was the 2nd and the leaks everywhere was the third. Confirmed by the leak test that either this was a poor rebuild or just a dishonest vendor. I don't think the PO knew as he was pretty clueless about mechanicals and I found he was charged double MSRP on some other things . Lloyds in Fort Collins did all the work. I see no point in contacting them since its been over a year and they would just tell me to bring it to them.

Looking at Yelp there was another review calling them scam artists
 

Romer

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I should mention that this thread is still a good indicator of the performance improvement Fuel Injection provides over carbs.
 

CreeperSleeper

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I'm sorry to hear about the engine! That is always depressing... So you are going to rebuild it as a 383? That will be an awesome motor when you are done.
 
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that sucks before you get rid of the motor, pull the heads and the pan... I suspect that you have an oil pump problem, if it is just that, you can sell the motor - it does have value, especially if the person can see what they're getting.
 

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