Hi, tommorow I am begining the restoration on my 1970 Toyota LandCruiser FJ40. It has the original 1F engine, 3 on the tree, and everything else. It also only has 11,000 miles!! I was wondering what kind of things I should look out for. I am planning on doing a Rough Country 4" lift, with SuperSwamper tires, either Boggers or Thornbirds. This is my first project andI want the Baddest looking truck in my school. The body has some rust on the quarters and on the rockers. I am stripping the truck down to the frame and redoing everything. Any tips on what to look out for or any problems I might have please respond. Also what kind of exhaust system sounds best?
Restoring 1970 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 70LCruiser
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11,000 miles! SWEET! got any pics of it? where did you find such a low mile fj40?
very coo! have fun and good luck
John H
very coo! have fun and good luck
John H
- Thread starter
- #5
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/265297 this is a link to pics of my truck. I got it from my uncle who had it partially restored about 3-4 years ago.
I had the top off this summer and it was the first time, it was ever taken off, so it had the factory toyota paint on it.
I had the top off this summer and it was the first time, it was ever taken off, so it had the factory toyota paint on it.
[quote author=70LCruiser link=board=1;threadid=6983;start=msg57686#msg57686 date=1067658802]
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/265297 this is a link to pics of my truck. I got it from my uncle who had it partially restored about 3-4 years ago.
I had the top off this summer and it was the first time, it was ever taken off, so it had the factory toyota paint on it.
[/quote]
thats very sweet! still amazed at the low low miles! was your uncle the original owner?
John H
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/265297 this is a link to pics of my truck. I got it from my uncle who had it partially restored about 3-4 years ago.
I had the top off this summer and it was the first time, it was ever taken off, so it had the factory toyota paint on it.
[/quote]
thats very sweet! still amazed at the low low miles! was your uncle the original owner?
John H
Nice cruzer, but if your going to fix the rear panel with rot out, putting diamond plate on it will only cover the problem, and cause worse cancer in the future. Don't let it rot away, fix it right before it really gets bad! Whay rebuild the motor with that low of miles, big waste of money, i'd leave it alone.
brian
SILVER Star
i agree with the above statement.
the f series motors are more of a tractor motor then car, as long as it's not spewing oil, water or internal parts it's good to go. just as long as the oil pressures good, not overheating and it sounds good i'd leave well enough alone.
the rust NEEDS to be cut out, NOT covered.
and as for exhaust, 2 or 2 1/2" with a good muffler, might as well go for a header too. that setup will give you that wonderfully throaty I6 sound.
as for your tire choices, i could be wrong but last i had known boggers were a bias ply tire(not so good for on road driving).
could go with the ol' standby, bfg muds. while not the most aggressive tire, they do offer good/great preformance on and off the road.
after looking over your pics, do you really feel you need to totally strip it?
judging by them unless it has a rusty frame or the tub is rusty underneath. it looks to be in real good shape with only a few minor area's that need some work. work that for the most part can be done over weekends/nights while you drive it during the week.
just my thoughts
hope you enjoy it, they are great and ones NEVER enough...
the f series motors are more of a tractor motor then car, as long as it's not spewing oil, water or internal parts it's good to go. just as long as the oil pressures good, not overheating and it sounds good i'd leave well enough alone.
the rust NEEDS to be cut out, NOT covered.
and as for exhaust, 2 or 2 1/2" with a good muffler, might as well go for a header too. that setup will give you that wonderfully throaty I6 sound.
as for your tire choices, i could be wrong but last i had known boggers were a bias ply tire(not so good for on road driving).
could go with the ol' standby, bfg muds. while not the most aggressive tire, they do offer good/great preformance on and off the road.
after looking over your pics, do you really feel you need to totally strip it?
judging by them unless it has a rusty frame or the tub is rusty underneath. it looks to be in real good shape with only a few minor area's that need some work. work that for the most part can be done over weekends/nights while you drive it during the week.
just my thoughts
hope you enjoy it, they are great and ones NEVER enough...
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for your feedback. I am going to strip the car because there is some rust on the tub and frame, no holes or anyhting. I am not goint to rebuild the motor because the thing runs great, doesnt smoke, leak, tap, ot anything. Today I stripped the front end panels(fenders, hood, grill) amd tried some body dolts. Allt he bolts oon this truck are original, they are all the same size and type. I tried the body bolts and most loosened right up. does anyone know how sturdy the roll bar is, because I own a crane company and therefore im leaving the body together and just lifting it up from the rollbar?? no pics yet, I forgot the camera 
My dad says w can rhinoline the underneath of the tub. I am goin to detail the motor, and was wondering where I can get the original stickers for it, I beleive it says F165 on the valve cover?? Thankyou
My dad says w can rhinoline the underneath of the tub. I am goin to detail the motor, and was wondering where I can get the original stickers for it, I beleive it says F165 on the valve cover?? Thankyou
Looks like you really lucked out and found a very nice example of an earlier cruiser.
By the way that engine is known as a the F engine. I might suggest you slow down untill you realize what you've got. Leaving a rig like that totaly original is way cooler than building it up with bad ass tires and everything. Its worth alot more if you leave it alone and or just restore to original specs. Rhino lining is bad advice. It will just cover and trap any rust not get rid of it.
Get some ACF50 http://www.wagaero.com/ to treat the rust, change the fluids. put some bfg muds on it and go enjoy driving it. Less is more sometimes.
By the way that engine is known as a the F engine. I might suggest you slow down untill you realize what you've got. Leaving a rig like that totaly original is way cooler than building it up with bad ass tires and everything. Its worth alot more if you leave it alone and or just restore to original specs. Rhino lining is bad advice. It will just cover and trap any rust not get rid of it.
Get some ACF50 http://www.wagaero.com/ to treat the rust, change the fluids. put some bfg muds on it and go enjoy driving it. Less is more sometimes.
The roll bar is NOT original on a 70 FJ40, and therefore may just attach to the thin metal wheelwells without reinforcement. You will probably just rip it off if you try to lift the vehicle by the roll bars!!!!!
Digital camera, digital camera, digital camera 
You would be amazed at how different things look a year later when you pull them out of the bag/box. The only real way to restore it is to take it apart 100%. Replace all items that can still be bought or adapted as new. Rebuild all other items that cannot be bought.
There are many theories as to how you should do it and details on particular parts of the resto. You need to pick you own way but understand that it will change as you go along with the project.
IMOHO I would say go stock or super stock. maybe a built 2F and PS. Much more beyond that takes away value.
Truth is the only person you need to make happy is you. Jump in and get started. Ask lots of questions.
One thing my father told me and it applies to all projects or parts of them,"The first 90% is easy."
You would be amazed at how different things look a year later when you pull them out of the bag/box. The only real way to restore it is to take it apart 100%. Replace all items that can still be bought or adapted as new. Rebuild all other items that cannot be bought.There are many theories as to how you should do it and details on particular parts of the resto. You need to pick you own way but understand that it will change as you go along with the project.
IMOHO I would say go stock or super stock. maybe a built 2F and PS. Much more beyond that takes away value.
Truth is the only person you need to make happy is you. Jump in and get started. Ask lots of questions.
One thing my father told me and it applies to all projects or parts of them,"The first 90% is easy."
- Thread starter
- #13
Im not just rhino lining the bottom of the body, im gunna sand blast it or something and then either rhino it or underbody coat. and im painting the chassis witht his special heavyduty truck paint. I buy it straight from the manafacturer in Brooklyn NY, so i get it for 1/3 the shelf cost. I know what I got, and im glad I have it, Its gunna be worth mre to me when I am done to it, But I see what youre saying about leaving it stock. But im not worried about selling it, I probaly wont, I bought it for basically nothing and i dont owe anything on it so I might as well have fun with it for as long as I can. I thought about leaving it stock, but thats not what I want to do because I need to take it apart anyway to repair rust/restore the truck so I might as well modify it. Im goin to leave most of the stuff stock ex: motor, trans, axles, transfer, interior, etc...
TJDIV
UP of MI.
I agree...build what you want, and do it right out the gate. If you don't you'll regret it, trust me.
I looked a little closer at your pics and it is a clean cruiser but there is a little bondo in it I see. So go for it. I suggest a soa and a body lift instead of the roughcountry spring lift. You will have more room for tires and a better ride. Also consider power steering.
Look a lot like my rig. I have a 1969 FJ40. Just about everything is original. Mine is also the same color as your (your interior). My odometer says that I only have 20,000 original miles. Now add that first 1 or maybe 2, and where the older odometers didn't go that high, and you get 120,000 or maybe even 220,000 original miles. Plus the odometer was broken when I got it. How long had it been disconnected? hmmmmm
How did you figure the 11k original miles anyway? I hope you didn't just read the odometer.
How did you figure the 11k original miles anyway? I hope you didn't just read the odometer.
I also have a 69' unfortunately it isn’t quite as clean as yours (not that it is bad). Same color though and completely stock until my recent lift. I pretty recently put a 4" BDS lift on it and am so happy with it. Recommend this over the other lifts you are looking at. Costs more but you get what you pay for. When taking apart the suspension on my cruiser I was amazed at the shackles -horrible shape (cant believe some hadent broken). I am glad to have replaced everything under there.
Wholly Crap that is nice. I think I got the next one off the line from yours. its a 70 also, Same color only mine came without axles or an engine or trans
I would stay away from the Rough Country. I have heard they are junk, Go with a skyjacker or BDS or OME if you have the $$.
The sticker is supposed to say F 155.
Good Luck.
I would stay away from the Rough Country. I have heard they are junk, Go with a skyjacker or BDS or OME if you have the $$.
The sticker is supposed to say F 155.
Good Luck.
I am just finishing a 14 month complete restoration of a '68 FJ40. Take plenty of digital photos. Don't throw away any bolts or machine screws. Some have .9 pitch which are impossible to buy anymore. As others have said, bag and mark every thing.
After a year it is hard to remember what goes where. Good luck, and it is very satisfying to do a project on a unique vehicle like this.
After a year it is hard to remember what goes where. Good luck, and it is very satisfying to do a project on a unique vehicle like this.
