Restoration Project

Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
So talked with Cruiser Outfitters and found out that the FF rear axle needs the OEM axle flange studs. The difference between the aftermarket and OEM is obvious side by side (pictures of difference are below). Well I replaced all 12 studs today (it was a long day on the black couch). I also replaced the trail fix of the blown out intercooler rubber. At the time I was ashamed that it came to duct tape. That progressed to a plumbing rubber. Eventually that turned into a shotgun blast sound 3 miles from the shop. So yes it was a much required attention problem.

So here are the studs you wanted see..... perverts.

20210822_135230.jpg


20210822_140554.jpg


20210822_143400.jpg
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
27,386
Location
Durham, NC
Visit site
Looks the same to me, just longer on the protruding portion. You put the long end into the hub? That's the mistake, not using the "wrong" studs.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
Looks the same to me, just longer on the protruding portion. You put the long end into the hub? That's the mistake, not using the "wrong" studs.
Yeah I didn't put the old ones in. I'm not sure why it makes a difference, I didn't ask why it is different. After I put my order in with Outfitters they called me back and told me that there is a difference for the (FF axle) and that I needed the OEM ones. Guess that would be a question for Kurt.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
Well today I got some work in. I finally fixed the power steering leak. It was leaking from where someone used a steel braided line, cut the end off and put a hose clamp on it. The hose went to hard lines and alls it did was just a complete loop along the frame from one side to other.... so pointless. I went to a hydraulic shop and had them braze a fitting on the return hard line coming out of the gearbox and make a hose to return back to the PS res.
20210823_143056.jpg

Then bled the system and no more PS whining.

Second fix of the day, replacing the trail fix clutch line that had a dribble coming from it. Got a 40" brake and got it install. Awesome.

Then I went and ordered the paint to finish up the Ivan Strewart stripes for the inside trim and outside. Holy s*** that was a quick $900 out the door.

Well lastly the front axle is covered in oil. At first I thought it from power steering but after looking into it.... engine oil. Now every 6bt/4bt owner knows the where the leak is coming from. That damn timing cover.
20210823_194444.jpg

Went to the parts store and ordered the gasket kit. Started taking the front of the engine apart. Luckily it isn't a hard job. It's like Cummins knew this would be a common issue and just made it pretty simple to do.
20210823_194404.jpg

That's where I left off because the gasket kit comes in tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
Ok so I guess my phone never posted my last update. Here is short version. Well I got the timing gear cover done. Awesome. Then Two days later it started leaking of the rear timing covered..... Yes. 3 days later I was sitting at stop sign and all of sudden got a huge cloud of white smoke.... even more awesome. In the diesel world that means 1 of 2 things. 1) you blew a head gasket. 2) an injector(s) went out. Well it only blew white clouds at idle. Injector for sure. I spent all last week dealing with a company. Placed the order on Tuesday, called them on Friday and they had no idea what was going on with my order. I spoke with them on Thursday because they said the injectors would ship then. Never got a email that they shipped. Well by the end of the day I told them to cancel the order, they didn't even charge my card on the end of the day on Friday. So got a hold of Xtreme Diesel. Ordered 4 of their stage 2 injectors (good for 350 RHP) and recommended timing set to 18°. Well they came in today.
20210914_211129.jpg

Weekends project.

Well then the day the injectors went out, I was driving home and the engine decided to start pussing oil. I don't know where yet, I just know the steering box is covered. I lost about 5 quarts in 4 miles. I don't want to do it, but I may end up pulling the engine and re-sealing everything. I did get some TA-31 RVT to reseal the engine with, if it ends up getting pulled. TA-31 is from Ford Motorcraft. It is the only RVT that they use to get 7.3s to stop leaking, so you know it's good.
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
27,386
Location
Durham, NC
Visit site
5 quarts in 4 miles, holy s***. If it's covering your driver's side and not the passenger side, look at the side cover, timing cover, injection pump. Those are the only things that can dump that much oil that quickly.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
5 quarts in 4 miles, holy s***. If it's covering your driver's side and not the passenger side, look at the side cover, timing cover, injection pump. Those are the only things that can dump that much oil that quickly.
Yeah my biggest concern was the diesel getting past the piston rings and that eating away the RVT used with the gaskets. Luckily when I checked all the oil levels to what was leaking, the engine oil didn't any smell of diesel.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
Updates:

Got the new injectors in. I'm excited to see how these stage 2 perform.
20210919_091533.jpg


Now I don't like to say an injector is bad till I do an actual pop test on them and see if bar pressure is matching the injector rating..... but yeah I am going to just say 2 of 4 injectors were bad.
20210919_092236.jpg


Upon fixing the oil leaking from the vacuum/PS pump, I noticed that I have a bigger issue. All 3 bolts on the left side of the engine for the motor mount are broken. I then checked the right side and 2 of the three are broken. So I believe it happened when I rolled it and I just missed it. Explains a lot of small issues that I have noticed. One being that the dual shifters for the transfer hit the Trans tunnel and pop into neutral/try shifting in low while driving. Which this good, I thought I was going to have pull up the new carpet and fab more room for them. Fixing the engine mounts will be way easier. Support the engine with stands and a jack, remove the brackets at rubber mounts, weld a nut to broken bolt ends and pull them out. Plans always look great on paper though, then you get kicked in the nuts when you put into practice.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
512
Location
Colorado
Visit site
Well you can't just highlight the successes of life. Here my ugly truth.... it wasn't the injectors.
20210925_023225.jpg

Though I am not upset about spending the $600 for the injectors. They definitely awoke the diesel beast to another level that excites oh so much. The normal signs of a blow HG just weren't there. Engine temperature wasn't going crazy, it didn't constantly blow white smoke (only at an idle after it got up to 140°), and oil wasn't milky. Very rarely do HG only crack between the exhaust and the cylinder. For s***s and giggles I will double check the torque on the head bolts. Just wishful thinking.

But there is good news. Got the mounts all tightened up. Turns out some someone put 8.8 grade bolts into the engine block. I went and got some high quality 12.9 grade bolts to put in. Blue lock tight and torqued them down to 90 ft lbs.

Cut the bracket up that was slowly loosening the PS pump.
20210924_183249.jpg

You look at the left corner by the bolt, you can see where the bracket has been rubbing on the bolt. I cut the corner away. Put a clean straight line across instead leaving the notched out steps.

Put it all back together and put a 12.9 grade hex head bolt so the bracket won't loosen it again.
20210924_183342.jpg


So no more oil leaks. Every was running running extremely well till I took that radiator cap off.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom