Resealing an FJ60 2F motor (1 Viewer)

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I'm prepping a FJ60 for my son and the next on the list is to get it to leak less than my Rover. Can the engine be resealed in the truck or is it easier to do out of the truck? Tons of oil on the Tcase as well so that may need to come out too. My (his) first Cruiser so I'm not sure where they typically leaks but it think it is everything, so I'm planning on doing all the gaskets/seals.
 
I'm prepping a FJ60 for my son and the next on the list is to get it to leak less than my Rover. Can the engine be resealed in the truck or is it easier to do out of the truck? Tons of oil on the Tcase as well so that may need to come out too. My (his) first Cruiser so I'm not sure where they typically leaks but it think it is everything, so I'm planning on doing all the gaskets/seals.
I’ve done the rear main, timing cover, timing plate, valve cover, pushrod cover, and everything else with the engine in the car.
 
Engine definitely can stay in while all the gaskets are replaced. No need to pull it
 
Agreed, you can change everything that really matters in the truck. Heck if you’re lucky and don’t have any warpage, I’ve heard of people rebuilding the whole block in the truck. Resealing the t case will be easier if you pull the transmission because they’re bolted together. At that point you ought to just rebuild the t case since you have to open it anyway.
 
Many thanks!

how are the head gaskets on these motors? Should I replace it while I’m in there?
I’d probably leave it alone if it’s not blown. You run the risk of warping the head by removing it which would require a rebuild. I hear more people complain about blowing headgaskets after changing them out. For what it’s worth mine, is original and I have 280,700 miles on my truck.
There is an issue I’ve heard from multiple 2f owners were the head gasket blows between cylinders 2-3 (I think)... there’s more info on that out there if you dig. Seems to be the weak point in the headgasket for some reason, but... if it’s okay leave it alone for now and run it.
 
I’d probably leave it alone if it’s not blown. You run the risk of warping the head by removing it which would require a rebuild. I hear more people complain about blowing headgaskets after changing them out. For what it’s worth mine, is original and I have 280,700 miles on my truck.
There is an issue I’ve heard from multiple 2f owners were the head gasket blows between cylinders 2-3 (I think)... there’s more info on that out there if you dig. Seems to be the weak point in the headgasket for some reason, but... if it’s okay leave it alone for now and run it.

Thanks!
 
1. Degrease the motor where ever you have oil.

2. Drive it some and look for new oil leaks to determine where the leak is coming from.

The rear main seal is hard to see but the oil comes out at the rear of the motor. It will get the inside of the bell housing oily.

3. Get the 1980 2f motor FSM from the resources button at the top of the page. drill down and look at the 40 series section for the manual.

4. Section 3 in the FSM..."engine service" has info on how to get to some of these seal as well as dissassembly instructions. read over the engine service section to look for the seals. For instance ...the front crank seal is located in the timing cover. The timing cover has different length bolts that need to go back in the correct position and the crank pulley goes back on before tightening the bolts.

It's a lot of work, there are SSTs required so you may have to get creative. That's why I say just replace the seals that are leaking.
 

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