- Thread starter
- #81
Yeah you're probably right... I'll get the big chunks off but I plan to cover it with some floor mats anyway. I did take a small chunk of paint off while scraping, so I probably shouldn't mess with it too much.
Rescued 1971 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter redfj
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Found out my drums don't have enough material left to turn. Looks like I get to order more parts!
- Thread starter
- #83
So I dug into my brakes last weekend and ran into some issues on the rear drums. I was unpleasantly surprised to find that the rear wheel cylinders and brake lines were all replaced at one point. The first thing that tipped me off were the 11 mm nuts on the brake lines and the second was the wheel cylinders were of the type that don't require a banjo bolt and adapter fitting. But, the wheel cylinders I just bought DO require the banjo bolt and fitting. Does anyone know where I might find these bolts and fittings? Also, do I need one single fitting and one double fitting for each wheel? I think this is what the rear should look like for a 5/71 but if someone could confirm that would be great. (not my truck, just a picture I found)
Looking back, would I have been better off just buying a later model wheel cylinder that didn't require a banjo bolt? I think my current brake lines would have worked in that case.
Looking back, would I have been better off just buying a later model wheel cylinder that didn't require a banjo bolt? I think my current brake lines would have worked in that case.
Nice thread, it looks like you're on the right path. Here are some pics of my rear setup that is an 8/71. I had trouble sourcing oem date correct cylinders so went with the next year up 9/71- 9/75. Check out the SOR.com pages for the brake line/components. It looks like you need an L splitter and an elbow fitting. The later range connections are all done with regular brake lines, no adapters needed.
I'm still stripping down the rear axle and have yet to get to putting the brakes back together. When I dig through the parts again and make sure I've got it right I can offer up my old hardware if you're still stuck.
On the booster, I went with booster dewey Booster Dewey Power Brake Booster Exchange Inc.
Took my old booster and refurbished it. The options were a bit limited as I think the rebuild kits are all gone. I was very happy with his work.
Good luck!
I'm still stripping down the rear axle and have yet to get to putting the brakes back together. When I dig through the parts again and make sure I've got it right I can offer up my old hardware if you're still stuck.
On the booster, I went with booster dewey Booster Dewey Power Brake Booster Exchange Inc.
Took my old booster and refurbished it. The options were a bit limited as I think the rebuild kits are all gone. I was very happy with his work.
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #85
So I thought I would give this an update since I have some real progress and finally drove it around my neighborhood (yay!).
After cleaning out the back. Very little rust
And after with the new seats and floor mats
- All new brake components including flexible lines. I still need to double pump the brakes, but I'm pretty sure I just need to adjust the shoes. I have bled the system waaaay too many times so I don't think that's the problem.
- Got new floor mats from cruiser corps. Very nice stuff
- New clutch master and slave. Pedal feels so much better now
- New jump seat covers and foam
- Painted jump seat frames
- New tires!
- New rear bumperettes. Old ones were very rusted
- New fuel filter
- New PCV valve
- New thermostat and radiator hoses
After cleaning out the back. Very little rust
And after with the new seats and floor mats
- Thread starter
- #86
- Thread starter
- #87
Also a few things to ask. I've been driving it around more and when I get above 35 or 40 mph I start to get a fairly loud noise/grinding. Here's a clip of the sound. My phone compressed it a lot so it's hard to hear the noise but it starts at around 10 seconds in.
Dropbox - File Sep 05, 5 13 11 PM.mov
I'm feeling more and more like I'm going to have to take the engine apart to see what state it's in since I'm pretty sure It has never been touched. I really want to be able to take it on the highway at a reasonable speed (55-60?) without feeling like it's going to explode. Right now I just don't trust it. What do you all think?
And what is this thing? The wire looks all frayed.
Dropbox - File Sep 05, 5 13 11 PM.mov
I'm feeling more and more like I'm going to have to take the engine apart to see what state it's in since I'm pretty sure It has never been touched. I really want to be able to take it on the highway at a reasonable speed (55-60?) without feeling like it's going to explode. Right now I just don't trust it. What do you all think?
And what is this thing? The wire looks all frayed.
Might be from the trans or transfer case if it sounds like gears whining. the audio is pretty bad.
Did you of the mechanic check that and the axle oil?
Did you of the mechanic check that and the axle oil?
Captn Conch
Life Begins Above Timberline.
Yes what Rusty said. I've not read all the posts, but do you have a gear lube leak on the drive way, or was there a discussion about the transfer seal gone bad and it now transfers lube up into the tranny, Just pull the filler bolt out of the tranny and see if gear lube comes gouting out of there because it overfilled with the gear lube from the transfer. Do not drive it until you check some things, and figure it out, you do not want to destroy the transfer, tranny or whatever is making the noise! Grinding is deadly.
- Thread starter
- #90
Alright so if I understand this right, if the seal is bad then oil will drain from the transfer case to the transmission? I did some searching and a lot people have installed a bypass hose connecting the filler holes so the oil will equalize in the case of a seal failure. Is this a permanent fix or should the seal between the two really be fixed?
Captn Conch
Life Begins Above Timberline.
It'l work! no problem it just lets the gear lube drain back to the transfer where it belongs and around and around it goes. Weird huh. means you nead a tranny to transfer seal. Now if, like in my current case, when you pull your emergency brake on and that creates a puddle of gear lube on the floor then that seal needs replaced which is relatively easy, compared to the tranny/transfer seal that requires pulling the tranny and transfer.
that's the controller for the transfer case
Any updates?
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Man.... what a nice 40! IMO your beautiful 40 needs a hand crank. I drew white arrows pointing out where the crank handle stores, apologies if you knew that already.
fyi Mark’s Off Road has a complete hand crank kit for sale..here It’s gunna get snatched up soon
I’m guessing Mark’s minty NOS Japanese fuel caps are spoken for, never hurts to ask though...seen here
I just spoke to @65swb45 today about 71 jack handle clips. Did you paint yours? They look new
fyi Mark’s Off Road has a complete hand crank kit for sale..here It’s gunna get snatched up soon
I’m guessing Mark’s minty NOS Japanese fuel caps are spoken for, never hurts to ask though...seen here
I just spoke to @65swb45 today about 71 jack handle clips. Did you paint yours? They look new
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Nostradamus
SILVER Star
Just read this thread. What an unbelievable specimen. Just wow...
- Thread starter
- #96
Thank you sir and thanks for pointing out the hand crank! I will check it out. And yes we did repaint those jack handle clips. It's the little things sometimes...Man.... what a nice 40! IMO your beautiful 40 needs a hand crank. I drew white arrows pointing out where the crank handle stores, apologies if you knew that already.
fyi Mark’s Off Road has a complete hand crank kit for sale..here It’s gunna get snatched up soon
I’m guessing Mark’s minty NOS Japanese fuel caps are spoken for, never hurts to ask though...seen here
I just spoke to @65swb45 today about 71 jack handle clips. Did you paint yours? They look new
And yes I'm still working on it! I live 120 miles away from it so it's hard to do anything with consistency. Since the last time I updated this I put in a new clutch and brake master cylinder and wowee what a difference. It drives pretty nice around town most of the time, but still not ready to go camping (my goal). I think it just needs a really thorough tune up since I don't think anything is in bad shape. Just unreliable at times. My list includes check engine compression, replace drivetrain seals, general engine adjustment, get someone to check out the carb, etc...
I still freakin' love it though.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Sounds like you have a good goal and are patiently chipping away at it. There’s 2 short youtube video of mudders demonstrating how to use the hand crank, iDave and Pighead. It is cool.
I switched my June 71 to Mark’s Pertronix program, what a difference that made. Barely any choke needed during startup, purrs nicely at 650, instant throttle response. Got it dialed so my wife can simply ease off the clutch in 1st, without the need for any added throttle. Trueing the manifolds and adding a nice Fel-Pro gasket to cure a manifold leaks also helped a bunch.
I switched my June 71 to Mark’s Pertronix program, what a difference that made. Barely any choke needed during startup, purrs nicely at 650, instant throttle response. Got it dialed so my wife can simply ease off the clutch in 1st, without the need for any added throttle. Trueing the manifolds and adding a nice Fel-Pro gasket to cure a manifold leaks also helped a bunch.
Ocho77
SILVER Star
What a sweet truck and story!! Glad your grandpa left it to you!
redeye
SILVER Star
I love the story of how you got this 40! I've got a 71 FST and will be following your thread. Keep us posted!
