Replacing Upper and Lower Control Arms this Weekend On Front (1 Viewer)

[fooldall1]

ANy "Gotchas" or tips you all Could share before I take on this job? FSM Seems fairly easy. The new parts have the Ball Joint and Zerks for regular servicing- but I need Tips if you All could share any. I am in the South, so no "rust belt" issues to be concerned. I have already replaced the Shocks and Stabilizer Bar End Links- but I'm convinced that the creaking is bad ball joints since inspection shows split boots (dust covers) and bone-dry and dirt/mud caked inside.

Thanks in advance!

 

[fooldall1]

OH, forgot to mention....Also doing rear shocks back to OEM Tokiko.. The Gabriels I bought some three years ago was a huge mistake as they have already failed in less than three years. Replaced the fronts just a few weeks ago. While the SBEL's and Shocks made a noticeable difference in steering and ride, that "creaking" is driving me nuts. So, since the original parts are still on there, I figure it's time. Decided against the "bushings only" approach, as the "new" part approach should save me time. One last question, as far as torque specs go for the bolts involved- are they torqued OFF the ground, or Torqued while off the ground and then RE-Torqued once back on the wheels?

 

[fooldall1]

Last step, at some point in the near future will be to replace the Diff support and Axle support bushings.

Engine refresh items are all done, along with interior refresh.

Anyone also know of a good source for original(ish) carpet and paddings?

 

[rrc swb]

This might be a silly advice... But, one of the best things I've always done before working on my trucks (1960s and 1980s) is to soak all the parts with PB. I tend to spray them the night before and then again first thing before starting work.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Are you replaced the bushing mounted in the frame on the LCA? There is a thread about what parts you can use to force it out. Basically some threaded rod and sockets.

The torquing needs to happen with the suspension at ride height. The LCA has some bolts that are tricky but if you take your time it is do-able.

The other tip I would offer is before you remove everything mark the UCA adjustments and the torsion bar with a white out pen. It’s a bit easier to see than sharpie and makes it go back together in a close to correct alignment if you line up the marks. When I did mine everything was in spec (except for the DS TRE but I think I counted the threads wrong).

After you are finished definitely get an alignment. I had replaced most of my front end so I had a zero point calibration (ZPC) done at the same time. The zpc can be done through tech-stream if you have it

 

[super90]

I'm planning this same project but life keeps getting in the way.

Yes !! Soak everything in your favorite penetrating oil a day or two before (I like Kroil and PB Blaster but there are other good ones too). Great advise.

In my case I am using brand new UCAs and LCAs from Toyota; full units. The old ones have 250k mi. on them, so I figure this next set will last longer than my family will use the truck. I'm also replacing the drive axles, flanges, etc. etc. while it's all apart. All factory new parts.

Popping the upper and lower ball joints will likely be the biggest challenge. Not saying it is always bad, but, I have had them give me fits on different cars at different times. As a result, I have a whole arsenal of tools for that. You will have better luck, I am sure.

Most likely you will need to remove your calipers and hang them. Remove the ABS sensors from the knuckle too. That way you won't strain those. I have seen pictures an videos of guys having those strained at fully extension. Makes me cringe. Again, I am pulling more apart than you, but keep those in mind.

Good thoughts on marking alignment and torsion bars before disassembly. Lubricate the adjusters for the torsion bars before you start wrenching on them. That will help.

You will get more good thoughts.

Keep us posted.