Replacing the AC dryer / receiver (3 Viewers)

[Riley]

Ok guys, this saturday I plan to replace my dryer and expansion valve. The dryer seems like a bitch to get at. I've decided to try to do this with my stock bumper still installed and get at it from the top.

I've got most of the headlight assembly out but not all. There's one bolt behind the turn signal that I can't get at unless I pull the turn signal. And it would appear to pull the turn signal, I need to pull the bolt. In other words, I can't get the freaking turn signal assembly out.

Please have a look at this pic and if you have any ideas, please post up. Maybe in the morning I'll see how this goes together.

Pic #1 - behind this assembly is a bolt holding the entire thing in -

 

[Riley]

Everything is pretty much removed as you can see with my hand pulling on it.

 

[Rich]

Remove the screw on top that secures the turn signal light. Pull the turn signal light straight forward. Now you can unbolt the headlight.

 

[flintknapper]

You'll need to add a small amount of oil back to the compressor also. I don't have my FSM in front of me right now but its about 1/2 oz. or so.

 

[Riley]

Remove the screw on top that secures the turn signal light. Pull the turn signal light straight forward. Now you can unbolt the headlight.

hum.... that small screw is removed. Perhaps I'm just not pulling hard enough.

Thanks Rich, I'll try pulling a little harder.

 

[Riley]

You'll need to add a small amount of oil back to the compressor also. I don't have my FSM in front of me right now but its about 1/2 oz. or so.

Thanks Flint. I've got the oil but only using it for the seals. I'm going to a pro to have the system recharged once I've got the parts replaced. They will add the oil during the recharge.

 

[Rich]

Riley, there is a pin in the turn signal light housing that inserts into a socket that is part of the headlight housing. That is why the turn signal housing is tight. Just grab it as best you can, wiggle a bit, and pull forward. To the best of my recollection that is all I did to remove. It is a bit of a puzzle, in that you can't see how it works until you have it apart!

Do make sure that there is not a bolt fastening the turn signal housing accessable from the area where you removed the parking lamp. I can't recall if there is or isn't, so double check.

 

[NorCalDoug]

hum.... that small screw is removed. Perhaps I'm just not pulling hard enough.

Thanks Rich, I'll try pulling a little harder.

And if that doesn't work...pull a little harder still

Sometimes it's a little stubborn.

 

[Riley]

Just a little update for the records -

The turn signal just has one screw on the top (going down into the headlight assembly) like the kind people above indicated. There is a pin that slides into the headlight assembly which means you must pull straight forward. It's weird.

Also behind the lower running light there is a bolt that secures the lower portion of the headlight.

Actually it's all easy to remove once you know how.

You can change the dryer and still leave the OEM bumper on. It does make it a little difficult to remove the old seals but it can be done.

My job is done. The expansion valve is replaced along with the dryer and the system recharged. It all seems to be working well except a high rev the pressure on the high side was perhaps too high. They recommended changing the Vis Clutch for the fan to move more air. That part is already on order.

But the AC does work now which is a lot better than it was 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for the help guys, I saved about $500 doing this myself.

 

[Rich]

What has to be pulled apart to replace the expansion valve?

 

[MLX450]

Congratulations! man you should post up some details on this. Im sure alot would benifit from your experience. FAQ material.

 

[Riley]

The FSM actually covers the replacement of the expansion valve pretty well. Here's what I did:

- used an AC shop to evacuate the system.

- Ordered dryer, valve and 2 different sizes of o-ring from dealer (part numbers later).

- pulled the 2 AC lines at the fire wall that go to the evaporator. Note that when you open the system, you will get a gush of oil/die and gas. Makes a bit of a mess and watch out for your eyes.

- I moved to the inside of the truck and removed the glove box and the cross bar that holds it on. This includes removing the right hand speaker/tweeter.

- Removed engine ECU taking care with the connectors. I forgot to disconnect the battery first but that would probably be a good idea. Also there's another control relay right there that is attached to the AC cooler unit. Remove it.

- I left in the PS front seat, other people pull it out.

- As per FSM, remove the 2 nuts and 3 screws that hold in the AC cooler unit. Make sure you get the correct screws (lift up the carpet a little bit to see them).
The nuts are 10mm. You will need a deep 10mm for one of them,

- After disconnecting the cables from the unit, pull it out. Note there is one small cable connector that is festened to the top of the cooler unit, leave it there and connected. Actually before you pull i think there is only one cable you can disconnect now. After pulling down/out, you will have better access to the others on top.

- Take the unit to the workbench. Be carefull of AC oil leaking out from the opened connection. I couldn't find anything to cover the holes with but that would be good.

- Follow the FSM to remove the parts in order like relay, cables, then screws and clips.

- The FSM states to remove the foam packing around the points that split open. It's glued in so I just cut it where the seam is with a sharp knife.

- Once unit is open, pull out evaporator. Clean it out well, Mine had dog hair from previous owner and cottonwood from Slickrock campground at Moab

- Using hex key, remove bolts holding in the expansion valve. It's a little messy because of AC compressor oil. Replace with new O-rings.

- Reassemble and use new o-rings at the fire wall as well. I oiled up the o-rings before install. Compressor oil I used was PAG-48.

- note to be careful to position the water drain line back into it's little hole in the floor. There is a rubber boot that goes over it from the outside. I had to reinstall that boot by backing off the protection plate in the engine bay.

Once that's all together, then move to the dryer. Replace that with new O-rings and then drive over to a AC shop for a recharge. Have them add some oil to the system.

I suggest using different tin cans to hold the screws at various points along the way so you don't get them mixed up. There's a bunch and this makes it easier to keep straight.

This took about 4 to 5 hours including some coffee breaks and web surfing breaks. I work slow. I needed to post some pics to get info on how to remove the turn signal light which ended up being this thread.

I think the system should blow a little colder but time will tell. A new VC fan clutch is also being replaced soon. It might help with cooling.

 

[Riley]

O-Ring part numbers that were used are:

90068-14010 which is a replacement for 90099-14121
90099-14119

I think you will need about 6 of each. That will cover the dryer as well.

The expansion valve is part number: 88515-20100

Note this was for a 1995 using R134.

 

[e9999]

did you remove *all* the oil and then add back the FSM amount, or did you just have the shop add some guessed amount? (been struggling with how much to add after having lost some unknown amount...)


were these p/n just for the Orings? I thought that Orings didn't come as a separate part?

 

[Riley]

I'm not sure how you would remove all the oil. It sits in various parts of the system. Probably a lot in the compressor and the dryer. We just added an educated guess, the old school AC shop thought I was over thinking the oil thing so I didn't push it.

O-rings are sold seperate from the evpansion valve and dryer for some reason.

 

[e9999]

Maybe the no p/n Orings were for the other locations in the AC circuit then...

and maybe it does not matter much if there is too much oil, just sits someplace...