Replacing shift lever boot (1 Viewer)

[CruiseOrlando]

I've been hunting down holes and such in my rig over the last couple of weeks, and one of the ones that came to my attention after I ripped out the carpet and center console was the rubber boot under the transmission shifter. It's all part of the linkage that goes under the truck, and mine was ripped open. I'm sure 18-19 years of shifting didn't have anything to do with it!

For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about, it's PNC 33555:

After I pulled apart the console, it's pretty easy to get at. Remove the 4 screws that hold down the shift selection indicator, and then the other 4 screws that hold the transfer case boot on. Remove the transfer case upper boot (be careful with that - it's an expensive part to replace if you mess it up!), and then there are about 8 or so other 10mm screws to remove around the plate.

To make it easier to get out, get under the truck and pull the transmission shift linkage bolt (12mm). You might want to mark its position before pulling it, just in case. Let the rod hang loose.

Now comes the tricky part. Because of the way the boot is on the lever, you're probably going to want to turn the truck to "on" so you can shift around a bit. Note that since you've removed the transmission linkage, you won't need to worry about the truck moving, but you will need to leave the two plugs attached at the bottom of the plate.

Once you have the plate off, it'll look something like this:

(That's the bottom of the plate)

Mine had a nice hole in it:

After I got the boot off the plate (there are a bunch of small collars in there that you'll have to remove before you can separate the boot from the plate), the hole was easier to see:

It's about $35-$50 replacement item depending on who you buy it from.

 

[Kernal]

Great photos. How do the shifter shaft bushings (#33511B) look?

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Worn, really. But I don't have any problem with shifting, so I'll probably leave them alone. What I'm debating on changing, however, is the bushing that attaches into the shift linkage(33711H I think). That one is pretty well shot, and if anything is going to make a difference, I think that one would.

 

[Kernal]

It would be great if you could list the worn parts you find. Thanks

 

[CAM24]

Have you noticed a reduction in noise since you replaced the boot? I had my console out the other day and inspected mine. I saw that its torn too, and it opens up a pretty big hole when the transmission is shifted to drive. I could easily see the ground. I would think it would help dampen some noise to swap it but probably won't waste the time if it isn't noticable.

 

[azTony]

May as well replace both bushings and grommets while in there, all are under $10

 

[scrowley]

This thread just helped me out big time....thanks for the FSM pic. I have sloppy shifter and long behold one of the bushings it totally missing.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Have you noticed a reduction in noise since you replaced the boot? I had my console out the other day and inspected mine. I saw that its torn too, and it opens up a pretty big hole when the transmission is shifted to drive. I could easily see the ground. I would think it would help dampen some noise to swap it but probably won't waste the time if it isn't noticable.

I didn't notice any noise reduction... well, I sure did while I was running without it! But compared to the way it was (cracked) an then with the new one, nothing really changed I don't think.

Most of the noise reduction is really from that console and the carpeting for sure.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

FYI, the "while you're in there" items are the bushings on the shifter.

90480-17177 x2 Grommet
90386-15003 x2 Bushing

(Thanks Sam!)


...typed with my thumbs.

 

[etarasoff]

Dang...i just ordered the bushings in prep for some "while you're in there" time when i take out my console soon...but didn't realize the grommets were wear items too.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Whats the actual toyota PN for the rubber boot? 33555 pulls up a lot of boots...

 

[SmokingRocks]

33555-60071 answered my own question....

 

[fencekey]

I am having trouble replacing the two bushings (33511B, 90386-15003) at either end of the shift shaft (part 33511 in the diagram)
I can tap these bushing into the housing with a hammer and 17mm socket, but the shift bar tears-up the bushing when I try to hammer that inside. Broken 4 new bushings already.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
I searched and found this thread as well with no real answers

Has anyone replaced the shift(er) control bushings on a FZJ-80?

Got my shifter assembly out of the truck to do some service and decided to replace the shifter control bushings while I was in there but have been having difficulty getting the bushings and control shaft back into the housing. The tolerances seem too tight between the new bushings, the housing...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks in advance

 

[WCBlueSky]

My advice: do NOT try to replace the plastic bushing (90386-15003) unless you REALLY need to. The part from the dealer doesn't fit well and I broke both bushings I ordered, and other forum members have had the same experience. I'm planning to get more bushings and sand down the inner and outer surfaces to get them on. I wish I had not messed with this in the first place.

 

[Kernal]

I can chime in, IMHO it may be worth the effort IF you can find a replacement
bushing before you start. I measured the OD of the shifter shaft and the ID
of the housing the shaft slides into, and found a type of permanently lubricated flanged Rulon-J bushings (PTFE, $70 for 2) from McMaster Carr.

They fit (I did have to do some sanding with a dremel to remove too much zinc plating), but the end result is that the shifter feels much more solid, zero slop. I'm sorry but I can't find the part number for the bushings I eventually got to fit, IIRC they were light brown (?gold) in color.

I think it was one of these (scroll down to Ultra low friction dry running Flanged Sleeve Bearings):

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

But I do agree, if you don't want to get into a mess, don't mess with it.

 

[88wavey]

So not entirely sure looking at the diagram but can anyone confirm the part numbers of the rubber grommet and maybe even the cotter pins for the top and bottom of the linkage?

 

[crtx]

So not entirely sure looking at the diagram but can anyone confirm the part numbers of the rubber grommet and maybe even the cotter pins for the top and bottom of the linkage?

Grommets on either end of linkage are 90480-17177

 

[SucioP]

Rehabing the shifter with @NLXTACY's kit. Great product for replacing the most of the visually worn parts. However, I cant for the life of me figure out where the circled parts go. From the diagram, looks like they should be at the bottom of the actual tranny shifter but that's all one piece....I'm sure this is obvious but I'm missing it.

 

[Kernal]

IIRC the short bracket circled attaches to the shifter lever; that short bracket dives through the rubber boot (grommet) down to the shifter rod that runs from that bracket forward to the neutral safety switch. So those circled parts are located above the floor, the parts immediately below the circled parts are located under the floor. I can look at it in the morning and report back.

 

[SucioP]

That’s what the diagram looks like but the short bracket comes up through the floor and connects to the shifter shaft (33511). Between the bracket and shaft are the a wave spring and the too small bushing referenced earlier. The parts circled are a stainless spacer, a washer and a bolt…

If I get a chance, I’ll send pics later tonight.