Replacing Power Steering Fluid FAQ (1 Viewer)

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Replaced my power steering fluid last night and wanted to share what I pulled together to make the job VERY easy. I purchased several feet of clear hose and some brass fittings to attach to the power steering fluid box and the return line.

First let me explain what has been explained a few times in this forum. The best way (for me) to change power steering fluid is to replace it ALL rather than do the chicken baster method of sucking out what you can from the reservoir and refilling.

This is how you do it:

1. First suck out as much of the old power steering fluid from the reservoir and pull the hose that is closest to the top of the reservoir. This is the return line from the pump to the reservoir.
2. Take your short hose with the stopper at the end that you have made and slide it over the plastic reservoir barb. This will keep fluid from coming out of the reservoir.
3. Take the long piece of hose (3 to 4 feet) with the brass barb on one end and slide the barb into the return line you removed from the reservoir.
4. Run the long hose down through the fender well to the ground and place the hose into something that fluid can drain into. I used one of my wife's many flower vases.. :D
5. Next jack up the truck and place jack stands on the frame so that the front tires are off of the ground. PLEASE make sure you set your emergency brake and chalk the tires.
6. NOTE: DO NOT START YOUR TRUCK FOR THIS PROCEDURE. You can do the next step by yourself or it would be much easier with another person. I have done it both ways before. One person fills the reservoir with fresh fluid. Once it is full, the person in the drivers seat slowly turns all the way left and all the way right. As this is done the fluid is going from the reservoir to the pump then out the return line you have dumping into the "Vase". MAKE SURE the person who is poring the fresh fluid in the reservoir does not let it go empty. When turning the wheel the fluid drains out fast so keep up with it when filling.
7. continue to do this procedure until the fluid coming out into the "vase" looks nice and clean.
8. Once done, remove the short plug you have put into the reservoir and be quick to put your finger over the hole or all the fluid will drain out on you..
9. Pull the barb out of the return line and put it back on the reservoir as you found it at the start of this procedure.
10. Now turn your wheel all the way left and right a bunch of times to purge the system of any bubbles and check the level of fluid. Once you feel you have purge the system enough, you are done.
11. Remove the truck from the jack stands, Start truck and turn wheels left to right again a few times.
12. Check levels after driving, but you should be fine.

Hope this was helpful. Attached are pictures of the hoses I made and a picture of the return line you need to remove that is on the reservoir.
hose kit.jpg
hose barb.jpg
Rez Stopper Hose close up.jpg
 
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Nice write up. Was the old fluid dirty ? What did you use to fill ?
 
Nice write up. Was the old fluid dirty ? What did you use to fill ?

The fluid was VERY dirty, it was brown and no longer clear. I cycled enough new fluid though the system to make sure nice clean fluid was draining out before putting it all back together.

I used Toyota Brand ATF w/ Dextron II.

Someone feel free to add this to the FAQ section if you think this would be helpful to others.

Zane.
 
I need to change my PS fluid soon and i will try this procedure...
 
How about just replacing the fluid in the reservoir at regular intervals, say 500 to 1000 miles, depending on how dirty the fluid is already?
 
Zane, thanks for the write up.. finally did mine this morning... used 3/8" ID hose and almost 2 quarts of ATF...
 
Thanks x2 for the writeup, did mine last night. I was able to put a milk jug just in front of the air filter box and ran the clear hose to it. Just kept turning the wheels til the fuild coming through the hose was nice and red. Used Mobil 1 muti vehicle synthetic atf and no pump noise etc. Mine is a 99 and called for teh dexron II/III.
Thanks!
 
Some pictures of the solo procedure

I did this by myself last night. Thanks for the awesome write up.

I ran the tube through the fender and outside the front passenger door.

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A full turn from right to left lock uses about half of the reservoir. So I'd turn it from lock to lock then fill up the reservoir to the top. Never letting it get below half full. I seemed to avoid getting any air in the lines this way.

By standing on the driver-side running-board/slider you can turn the wheel while watching the reservoir through the space between the hood and bottom of the windshield while also keeping an eye on the color of the fluid going into the bucket.

Before removing the stopped hose, I squeezed most of the fluid out by pinching with my fingers, then kinked the hose and clamped it with a mini vise grip wrench. I lost very little fluid while quickly switching the lines. A towel caught and spills.

6772777335_7e4c28082f.jpg


I stuck the drain hose between the hood and windshield while reattaching the lines.

6772777767_028ef37556_z.jpg


I ended up using about 2.5qts of Valvoline DEX VI Synthetic ATF. I could have used less.I think I drained almost a qt of fresh fluid.
 
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FYI -- Total work less than $35 dollars for ATF, tubes and misc items. A big savings over what they would charge you at the dealership or your favorite shop... times 2. I did my wife's toyota as well.

1 3/4 quarts for the truck and 1 1/4 quarts for the car.
 
PS maintenance is pretty easy now after a complete drain and fill... every 10 k miles, i lift the reservoir out of its seat, holding a milk carton (top cut off) below the res, I unplug the lower line (feed line) and just drain it into the carton for disposal. after that, reconnect, fill less than a quart and go. [this and the MAF/TB cleanup are a good way to spend the time waiting for engine oil and tranny pan to drain]

:cheers:

BTW, the fluid always looks hammered even after every 10 k miles.
 
Can someone explain to me why we need two hoses? The OP indicates that I remove just one return line, but then need to plug in two hoses (?)
 
Can someone explain to me why we need two hoses? The OP indicates that I remove just one return line, but then need to plug in two hoses (?)

The short hose just acts as a plug for the exposed reservoir port.
 
hahaha yeah I finally got it. Thank you so much! I feel like an idiot now. :frown:

Real time help needed: While doing this, I idiotically managed to turn the wheel on an empty reservoir and got lots of air into the system. How can I purge this correctly?
 
Search for the bleed valve on the power steering rack. If you suspect air in the system, open the bleed valve and turn the steering wheel left and right while keeping the resevoir full until all of the air is expelled.
 
not a big deal just run the engine with thhe reservoir is full, while turning the wheel lock to lock. depending on how much air is in there you may need to refill. don't over fill it when bleeding because the pump will burp out air through the reservoir and make a mess.
 
Just replaced the Power Steering Fluid

Followed the directions and got the job done. Bought fluid at the Toyota dealer and tubes from Home Depot. My 03 had 63K miles. Used 2 cans.

DSC03598.jpg
 
The fluid was VERY dirty, it was brown and no longer clear. I cycled enough new fluid though the system to make sure nice clean fluid was draining out before putting it all back together.

I used Toyota Brand ATF w/ Dextron II.

Someone feel free to add this to the FAQ section if you think this would be helpful to others.

Zane.

When I bought the fluid at the Toyota dealer, it didn't say "ATF w/ Dextron II", it simply said "Power Steering Fluid".
 

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