Replacing Head after Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Feb 22, 2016
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Venice, CA
I am in the process of installing the head after a rebuild with new valves and springs, etc. I also pulled the camshaft to replace the front timing plate cover.

I have the cam in, and the head and rocker assembly in and I'm adjusting the valves per the FSM specs, but I have a few concerns:

1) At TDC, the FSM calls for a valve adjustment on the exhaust valve on cylinder 5, however that lifter is high right now so there is heavy load on the spring.

2) As I wrench to turn the crank, there is a lot of air seepage from cylinder # 6 out the bottom of the cylinder (I have the oil pan off). Is this normal? I did a compression check before I pulled the head and these were the results: 1=180 / 2=170 / 3=170 / 4=170 / 5=165 / 6=185

3) On the first couple turns of the crank, there were a couple loud clicks. No further resistance, and I wasn't forcing it. Now the clicks are gone.

The cam was installed with the gear marks aligned, definitely certain of that.

Is all the normal? Just want some opinions before I keep going

Thanks
 

OSS

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Jun 30, 2017
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Oblivion
  1. Turn the crank another 360° There's TDC exhaust and TDC intake
  2. None of the cylinders are going to be able to hold pressure when only rotating the crank with a wrench - but if #6 is the only cylinder that noticeably blows by air — something is up with that cylinder. All the cylinders should leak kinda The same. Maybe it's nothing significant and once the engine is running and heats up and oils itself, pressure will return
  3. Since the camshaft was removed, maybe something needed to seat correctly on first rotation
If you feel confident with the camshaft installation, checki ir off your list.
There's a few threads here on mud describing how to adjust the valves on a cold stopped engine .

Once you get the valves adjusted, (for the start up) might as well fire it up and see how she runs. Re-torque the headbolts and adjust the valves again soon afterwards.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
90
Location
Venice, CA
  1. Turn the crank another 360° There's TDC exhaust and TDC intake
  2. None of the cylinders are going to be able to hold pressure when only rotating the crank with a wrench - but if #6 is the only cylinder that noticeably blows by air — something is up with that cylinder. All the cylinders should leak kinda The same. Maybe it's nothing significant and once the engine is running and heats up and oils itself, pressure will return
  3. Since the camshaft was removed, maybe something needed to seat correctly on first rotation
If you feel confident with the camshaft installation, checki ir off your list.
There's a few threads here on mud describing how to adjust the valves on a cold stopped engine .

Once you get the valves adjusted, (for the start up) might as well fire it up and see how she runs. Re-torque the headbolts and adjust the valves again soon afterwards.

Thanks for the reply. I am confident the camshaft was installed with the gear marks aligned.

After another turn of the crank I now realize I was on the wrong stroke. Thanks

Also, upon further listening, the blow-by is on all cylinders.

I basically scared myself which lead me to write this thread, but everything looks good.

Thanks
 
Last edited:

tmxmotorsports

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Jul 3, 2016
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Yes you will hear air from the cylinders also make sure the head gasket is on correctly the tab goes to the back ask me how i know😶😶
 

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