Replacing fuel tank filler neck (2 Viewers)

[OLDSRIP]

hi all,

I am replacing the filler neck on my 1994 80 series.

I have the old one out. It was so rusted I ripped it in half to get it out.

Looking in past threads I see the new replacement has to be sectioned to install it unless I pull the body off the frame. (Thanks Toyota) That's not happening.

I am looking for pictures or advise on how others have cut this in the past. I couldn't find any photos.
Or better yet, a magic trick showing how to get this installed in one piece. Haha.

Living in the rust belt is so much fun.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[Red Merle]

Subscribed. I may do this too if it's not crazy.

 

[fzj80joe]

I'm about to do the same thing, and I was thinking of just cutting the new one and splicing it back together double up on the clamps. I was hoping to only have to cut it in one place or something.

 

[icorradoi]

When I added my auxillary fuel tank, I cut off the neck near the frame and then went with Gates #23964 1.5" fuel filler hose to make up the difference. The filler pipe runs into the gas tank through a soft hose that can still be purchased from Mr. T.

You'll probably have to cut the new metal hose near the filler neck and use the rubber hose to make up for what you cut out.

Check out some of the aux fuel tank install threads. There's good info in those that may help you get an idea as to what you will need to do.

Factory Auxiliary Sub Tank Install

Auxiliary tank

 

[cruiserdan]

When I installed my sub tank I cut the inlet pipe just inside the frame rail with enough space to clear the hack saw. Of course I was going back in with a dual neck that bolted into the fenderwell. The stock neck is unsupported up at the gas box so there is no way to mount it in the filler box.

 

[The Proton]

When I installed my sub tank I cut the inlet pipe just inside the frame rail with enough space to clear the hack saw. Of course I was going back in with a dual neck that bolted into the fenderwell. The stock neck is unsupported up at the gas box so there is no way to mount it in the filler box.

I'm about to cut mine in half to install a sub tank as well. Are you all disconnecting the filler from the tank first? I'm more than a little worried about even my spark proof hacksaw blade or some static discharge. Don't want to be under the car when a fire starts. Any procedures to make sure its safe to cut?

 

[cruiserdan]

I did not disconnect anything. I did remove the gas cap so the tank was not under pressure. I carefully cut it with a hand hacksaw, nice and slow. I still have my eyebrows but your mileage may vary.

You could also cut it with one of those pipe-cutter thingys if there is enough room for the tool to roll around the pipe.

 

[icorradoi]

Safe is a relative word when you're cutting a fuel filler neck.

Yeah, nothing needs to be disconnected at the fuel tank end of things.

I actually cut mine with a sawzall! I'm not recommending you the same thing, in fact, I recommend you don't cut it like that, it's just what worked for me.

If you're really anxious, you could fill the tube with inert gas, but I don't think it's necessary.

Let me know if you have any install questions when you're installing the tank.

 

[thebus]

i'm about to tackle this...great....

 

[arcteryx]

You can cut them in half to remove them, but to put them in in 1 piece, the body MUST be lifted from the frame. No way around it. It's a labor of love for sure. But I would not cut your new one and then reweld. I have tried many times to remove in 1 piece, there is just no way around it except body off.

Or buy a rust free truck

 

[arcteryx]

oh, same goes for the 100 series too

 

[Funner]

A grounding strap would take care of a static charge issue.

 

[CLEcruiser]

I need to do this on my 100. Any advice from anyone who has done this, where approx did you cut.

 

[98Rustyhundy]

I didn't need to lift the body off the frame to get my new filler neck in. 100 series. DM if you want help with the procedure. Involves removing the spare tire and spare tire bracket.

 

[landtank]

I put a new pipe in whole with the body on.

I compressed the pipe from being round to an oval. Then jacked up on the rear floor for extra room and forced the pipe in. Then using a c-clamp round out the pipe again. The pipe interfaces with a rubber connector so being perfectly round isn’t a requirement.