replacing flange on front 3rd

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by cruiserjunktion, Nov 11, 2005.

  1. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    I am swapping a 74 tranny/xfer into my 71. The swap includes dshafts and flanges. Swapped the rear, no problem. While swapping the front flange, I pushed the pinon back into the chunk. Since there is no removable cover on the front pumpkin, how do I fix this?


    mel
     
  2. DaveWest5150

    DaveWest5150

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    a strong magnet might do the trick....good luck
     
  3. BB

    BB

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    Mel,

    Where did you get your flanges for the swap? Getting ready to do this myself. Good luck with the pinion recovery....

    Brian
     
  4. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    Just lock the hubs and turn one wheel and it will come back out.
     
  5. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    Is there a bearing that has fallen?

    ordered these flanges from $or

    saleman had many many many different flanges........

    I ordered flanges for a stock 12/74, since that is the yr of donor rig.
     
  6. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    I pulled all the bolts out of the front 3rd member before reading any responses. I thought the 3rd would slide out, but it is held in some how.........

    I want to dirtft..........


    help
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2005
  7. cruiserhead

    cruiserhead

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    You have to pull the axels out an inch or so to remove the 3rd member.HTH
     
  8. peesalot

    peesalot

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    bolt third back and lock hubs , turn slowly , one way will suck it in and then jam , the other will try to force it back out but you will prolly need to stick your finger in and kinda wiggle the pinion to get it started if it jam already and make sure you hold it lined up , how far in it go ???? :confused:
     
  9. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise SILVER Star

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    Bingo...

    Good Luck!
     
  10. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Be careful because you probably dropped all the spacers too. I'd do it right and remove the 3rd.
     
  11. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    the pinon is pushed all the way in..... resting in there sideways



    3rd is ubbolted, but won't slide out.... if I pull the axle out a few inches,

    do I need to rebuild the knuckles?

    help
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2005
  12. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    To pull the axles you will need to go into the front axle as far as removing the stub axles or spindles. So in answer to your question, yes, sort of. You will want to ensure you have all the spacers and are able to set the pinion bearing preload right.
    It's time to pull out the shop manual.
     
  13. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    here is where I am..... wheels, brakes, etc removed.........

    next off is the brake caliper bracket. Once that is done what will I need to do next?


    also,

    besides 3rd member gasket, what else do I need to gather to complete this job?
    DSC06718.JPG
     
  14. Mr. Toad

    Mr. Toad

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    I think you can leave the caliper bracket on (though the photo makes it look like the bracket might be welded to the spindle), but you must remove the 8 spindle bolts and take the spindle off. At this point, the birf will hang limply, and you can pull it out a little to clear the diff for removal.
     
  15. Mr. Toad

    Mr. Toad

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    After looking at the photo some more, it looks like maybe your caliper bracket is welded to a plate mounted on top of the spindle (in place of the dust shield that should be there). Anyway, remove the 8 bolts and the spindle (and caliper bracket plate, etc.) will come off and let you pull out the axles a little (or a lot, if you want).
     
  16. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    bracket bolted on.......


    the weld is part of the jto bracket....

    goin to pull brackets and 8 bolts now
     
  17. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I'd get the gaskets as if you were doing a knuckle rebuild except for the felt one on the back of the knuckle as well as a new pinion seal since you need the seal out to install the spacers (they go behind the bearing. If you find any oil you may as well go all the way and rebuild since you're almost there anyways. Like I said, find ALL the spacers and replace them when you put the pinion back in. It'll mean a new pinion seal too. Install the pinion and spacers and check the preload BEFORE you install the seal. When all is well remove the pinion flange install the seal and put it together for the last time.
     
  18. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    here is a peek inside......

    grease looks like it may have some gear oil in it..... not too much but some....

    does it need a rebuild?
    DSC06721.JPG DSC06720.JPG DSC06719.JPG
     
  19. HawkDriver

    HawkDriver

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    I surely would replace the seals in there while you're at it. Oh and the grease. Don't ya love these domino effect jobs. Sorry bro. So you got the 3rd out now right?

    While you have everything apart, does everthing else feel tight. Trunnion bearings, hub bearings? Now's the time. ;)
     
  20. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    3rds out......

    I have a new 3rd gasket and pinon seal.

    I ordered a knucle rebuild kit ........ should have all the seals

    When holding the long axle, there is alot of play on the birfield. The short one isn't

    as bad but gonna rebuild both....

    How would you clean out the grease ? Should I clean the entire inside of the axle

    housing?
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2005
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