replacing cracked oil pan (1 Viewer)

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Jan 18, 2005
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Location
Magnolia, TX
The oil pan on the cruiser is cracked right below the threads of the drain plug. I am going to replace the pan and gaskets. It doesnt seem to be a hard job. anything unexpected i should look for?

Also i have searched and there seems to be a lot of issues with getting the correct pan and gasket. If any one has the toyota part numbers for it please post them up.

83 fj60

Kyle
 
you should call Cruiser Dan and order the parts from him. Here is what I get. The part numbers I started with were from 1983, but there have been substitutions...The pan doesn't come with the drain plug, so you'll need one of those too.
oil pan part nos.JPG
 
I seem to recall, the pan has been superceeded to a newer model. It uses a smaller drain plug. Not sure, and the best person to call and ask is Cruiserdan.
 
anything unexpected i should look for?

The constant drip,drip, drip of motor oil once the pan is removed...:D

A good gasket scraper will be handy, as most-likely the gasket will be stuck like a bitch.....:frown:
 
Let plug out and let drain the night before you take it off. Mike
 
Let plug out and let drain the night before you take it off. Mike

plus the filter as drain back is slow.......

but then again there's a chance of loosing pump prime.......:frown:
 
I gather that there is no way that the crack can be repaired by welding? On removing the gasket stuff, I had some success with paint stripper cutting the old sealant. Get yourself a single edge razor blade scraper for the block.
 
Just make sure you give yourself plenty of time to do the job. It's not a technical job, but it can be agravating. The gasket can be a real pain to scrape off. Often times the pan doesn't want to come loose. After all the bolts are removed, put a bottle jack in between the frame rail and the side of the pan. Put a little tension on it, and walk away. If you get in a hurry trying to get a stuck pan off, you can end up denting the pan quite a bit, bending the lip of the pan, or damaging the mating surface by driving a screwdriver or scraper in there to try and break the seal. I guess you are not too concerned about the pan that's coming off, but it can still be a bear to get off even if you don't care about damaging it. Also, it doesn't hurt to have a few longer bolts to get the new pan started, and then of course you replace them with ones of the proper length once the new pan is in place.
 
Get two of the double-ended threaded studs at NAPA with corresponding nuts. Put one in each side of the block about 1/2 way and use them to line up and hold the pan temporarily.
 
I had to replace my pan as well due to corrosion. After blasting it at the car wash one day all of the oil drained out. Call up cruiserdan, he'll get you straightened out.

I would recommend putting some high-temp exterior caulking around the bash plate so that water does not sit in there and start rusting.

Also you might consider putting a few coats of paint on the new pan as the factory paint is pretty thin.
 
I got lots of time to do it. I just graduated college and cant find a job, so i was forced to move home:bang::crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:. At least this will give me something to do for a while.

It probably could be repaired but with the effort and time it would probably be better off replacing in the long run.

got a number for dan and/or an idea on cost?
 
No used ones in your area?

Any pan will work from 6/76 up......

Even older can be made to fit with slight baffle modifications..........
 
TTT......
 
I got lots of time to do it. I just graduated college and cant find a job, so i was forced to move home:bang::crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:. At least this will give me something to do for a while.

It probably could be repaired but with the effort and time it would probably be better off replacing in the long run.

got a number for dan and/or an idea on cost?


The idea on costs are shown in my post #2. I find that Dan's costs are closer to the 1sttoyotaparts "your price" than they are to the "list price". You can PM Dan on MUD (user name is "cruiserdan") or you can call him at American Toyota (see the MUD vendor adds https://forum.ih8mud.com/vendor.php).
 
currently i am doing temp work in a metal fab shop. I figure while i have the chance i might as well use there good welders. if i have the time and the tools it never hurts to try. my only worry is the crack is very close to the plug threads.
 

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