Replacing all my gaskets on my 2f, What needs sealant (1 Viewer)

[broth9640]

I just received my gaskets from Toyota and am close to bolting everything back together on the engine, but was wondering what gaskets I should use with sealant like the right stuff and which ones go on with nothing. I also have a new set of freeze plugs to install, but was wondering if these get installed with a sealant or just pounded in with a rubber mallet? I prefer not to go overboard with the sealant because its a bitch to clean off if I ever have to remove it again. Thoughts?

I am replacing every gasket

 

[myquestoyota]

Very pretty valve cover, is it powder coated?

 

[broth9640]

Nope. 3 Base coats with high temp duplicolor followed by 3 coats of clear

 

[1911]

I just received my gaskets from Toyota and am close to bolting everything back together on the engine, but was wondering what gaskets I should use with sealant like the right stuff and which ones go on with nothing. I also have a new set of freeze plugs to install, but was wondering if these get installed with a sealant or just pounded in with a rubber mallet? I prefer not to go overboard with the sealant because its a bitch to clean off if I ever have to remove it again. Thoughts?

I am replacing every gasket

Do you have a copy of the factory service manual? That is a good place to start.

Having said that, I do use sealant in more places than the FSM says. For example, I use a very thin layer (about as thin as I can spread it with a finger) of Toyota FIPG on both sides of the cork gaskets for the oil pan and the valve lifter (side) cover. YMMV, but my 2F's don't leak a single drop of oil. In any event, don't get too happy with FIPG or any other kind of sealer that hardens, because you don't want any excess to get squeezed off inside an oil passage.

For a leak-free 2F it's also important not to over-tighten stuff, especially said oil pan and side cover bolts. The torque spec for those is in INCH-pounds; without an inch-pounds torque wrench it's real easy to over-tighten them and squish the cork out to where it doesn't seal.

On the freeze plugs, I like to put a very small amount of high-temp. liquid sealant in the bore; probably overkill but that's what I do.

While you've got the engine out, I would replace both front and rear main (crankshaft) oil seals. Also do the oil galley plug fix by the #5 spark plug if that hasn't been done already.

 

[broth9640]

Ok I am a bit new here so can you tell me what these acronyms stand for?
FIPG
YMMV
I do have an inch pound torque wrench, but no 2F FSM just the chassis FSM. I do have a Haynes, but haven't looked there yet. What is the oil galley plug fix? Do you have a pic?
I did get a new rear seal and a front seal that goes in the timing cover. Is that the one you were referring to when you said front? Or do I need another seal? Your help is appreciated. It would be a shame to get this all back together and have it leak .

 

[Poser]

"Form In Place Gasket"

"Your Mileage May Vary"



Hit the FAQ and read away...

 

[broth9640]

Thanks, I have read your threads on the oil pan and side cover, but was wondering if there were other recommendations for the other parts like the water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, etc. Did I miss this in the FAQ?

 

[igotta40]

The short answer is yes. All the ancillaries i.e. fuel pump, oil filter mount, side cover, water pump etc. yes, anything that bolts to the block. Be careful with the timing cover, make sure the oval egg shaped cover is completely flat or it will bleed oil. Definitely want to check it with a straight edge to make sure you have a uniform flat surface and don't overtighten the screws. It gets tricky, because at the bottom of the cover there are two large bolts that look like they should be torqued tighter... don't use too much sealant or you could clog the timing cover drain port into the front bearing. I have detailed pictures if you pm me i will send them.
No sealant on the valve cover gasket needed.

Since you don't have a FSM for the 2F motor, have you checked the brass oil nozzle on the timing plate at front of the blck to make sure it's pointed correctly at the timing gears? Set it correctly and punch that in place so it won't back out.

Poser may want to chime in on that one... just sayin

Would hate to see all that nice motor need to be done over....

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

I live here in Denver and can bring my FSM over if you would like to see what it says. I would like to see the progress as well. I am around this weekend anytime. Mark

 

[1911]

What is the oil galley plug fix? Do you have a pic?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/346362-oil-galley-plug-fixes.html

 

[broth9640]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/346362-oil-galley-plug-fixes.html

WOW I had no idea! I will get right on this.

 

[broth9640]

I live here in Denver and can bring my FSM over if you would like to see what it says. I would like to see the progress as well. I am around this weekend anytime. Mark

Let me check with the and see whats on the agenda for Saturday. I might be stuck Christmas shopping. I shouldn't complain because she is buying me the Paint and Clear for the cruiser for Christmas
I am hoping to pick up my MT roll cage today and will need some help with it if your down to help. I need to weld up my frame tie ins. You wouldn't happen to be skilled at welding ? I kinda suck and don't want to f up my tie ins. If not that then I will be doing the oil galley plug fix.

As for the 2F FSM I would love to take a look at that thing. Especially the Torque specs for everything.

 

[1911]

As for the 2F FSM I would love to take a look at that thing. Especially the Torque specs for everything.

Unlike modern Toyota factory service manuals, it actually doesn't give torque values for a lot of fasteners. That's why I mentioned it as a starting point. To help you out, I found the oil pan and side cover torque values in the 3FE factory service manual, which I figure is good for any "F"-series engine. That says 80 inch-pounds for the oil pan and 69 inch-pounds for the side cover. Again, the important thing is to not squish the cork out of the mating surfaces. Make sure the oil pan flange and the side cover are both straight and true; sometimes a previous owner has distorted them badly by prying on them to remove.

Even without all the torque values, the FSM is worthwhile investment for your Cruiser. There are also a couple of articles in the forum FAQ that list torque values for various 2F and 40 applications.

 

[broth9640]

Hey thanks! I did see the FAQ for torque values and the disclaimer to use at your own risk. That's why I wanted to take a peek at the 2F FSM. I will try the 80 Inch pounds and see how the gasket looks. Thanks again. Every little tip helps. The motor leaked from every seal before I stripped it down and I want it to be as leak free as possible this time around.

 

[RicardoJM]

Wow, I just read through your restoration thread. Great work. To answer your original post, the only gasket that I did not use sealent on is the valve cover gasket. I did use FIPG for the lower bolts of the timing gear cover, for everything else a thin smear of permatex. When using sealent, I've had best results when I let the sealent be exposed to air for a bit (10-15 minutes) so that it becomes tacky before starting the bolt on process.

Clean and straight mating surfaces are important, it does not take much of an imperfection for oil to find its way out. The prep and gasket will never be easier that it is now that the engine is on the stand. You can rotate the engine to make the prep work easier. I found the torque specs in the FSM to be too high for the timing gear cover resulting is a squished and split gasket that leaked. Keep a close eye on the compression of the cork - that is to say you want it to be snug (starting to compress) but not so tight that it becomes smashed/split.

I've got the FSMs for the engine and body and am local to the Denver area if you need to take a glance at them, let me know.