Replacement window run source for 60-series trucks (1 Viewer)

[Super77]

Like many of you, I have sluggish windows, especially when it’s cold. The original window glass runs in my doors were brittle after 30 years, and I’ve been trying to replace them for a while. A couple of weeks ago I finally got to it.

I tried an OEM replacement but it was poor quality. Genuine Toyota runs are either NLA or $$$, depending on who you ask. On a whim, I ordered this and was surprised at the great results, despite it being a generic product.

Unlike the original, this run is flocked, so the glass just glides beautifully in it. It presses right into the window frame but is a little more compact in cross section than the original run. Doesn’t seem to affect function, though.

Note that the original has a corner molded into it and this one does not. You will need to notch out two little bites with scissors to get it to bend in a sharp 90 degree corner, but that’s not difficult to do. The original was also two pieces - the up-and-over portion with the corner, plus a straight piece down the hinge side of the door. I just ran the replacement in one piece.

20’ will do both front doors with a little extra for corner-making practice. The rears need a bit less, but I haven’t tackled those yet.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, That’s great and I love the price. Mike

 

[cheezypoof]

Like many of you, I have sluggish windows, especially when it’s cold. The original window glass runs in my doors were brittle after 30 years, and I’ve been trying to replace them for a while. A couple of weeks ago I finally got to it.

I tried an OEM replacement but it was poor quality. Genuine Toyota runs are either NLA or $$$, depending on who you ask. On a whim, I ordered this and was surprised at the great results, despite it being a generic product.

Unlike the original, this run is flocked, so the glass just glides beautifully in it. It presses right into the window frame but is a little more compact in cross section than the original run. Doesn’t seem to affect function, though.

Note that the original has a corner molded into it and this one does not. You will need to notch out two little bites with scissors to get it to bend in a sharp 90 degree corner, but that’s not difficult to do. The original was also two pieces - the up-and-over portion with the corner, plus a straight piece down the hinge side of the door. I just ran the replacement in one piece.

20’ will do both front doors with a little extra for corner-making practice. The rears need a bit less, but I haven’t tackled those yet.

View attachment 2331632

I just wrapped up both front windows, replaced the regulators and followed your recommendation for the runs. Night and day improvement. For the runs, the aftermarket works very well, I can't see OEM being worth the nearly 10x $.

After reading a few threads I decided to cheap out and went with Doorman regulators vs OEM. I don't recommend this option. The driver's side is fine, but the pass side has a hitch at the very top, rolls effortlessly until the last half inch. Lesson learned.

Now onto the rears

 

[ProwlerDriver]

how hard are the corners to do since they're not really molded?
Also what's flocked mean with these? I have new regulators but my windows are notoriously hard to roll down. Im interested in trying other things to fix the problem!

 

[cheezypoof]

how hard are the corners to do since they're not really molded?

Followed advice by @Super77 and just snipped the excess that forms when you press into the corner. It was easy and appears to work fine.

 

[Spook50]

I so need to do this along with refurb my OEM regulators and my more extensive relay mod. Would be so awesome to have some full power to my windows and have them work flawlessely (along with my door locks, but I need a new master switch for that).

 

[cheezypoof]

I so need to do this along with refurb my OEM regulators and my more extensive relay mod. Would be so awesome to have some full power to my windows and have them work flawlessely (along with my door locks, but I need a new master switch for that).

My first attempt was to clean and re-grease the original regulators - it didn't really help.

Front regs are still available OEM, I think about $100 ea. Save the $ with the aftermarket runs and use it for the oem regs.

Rear window regs are discontinued, need to do some searching.

 

[Spook50]

My first attempt was to clean and re-grease the original regulators - it didn't really help.

Front regs are still available OEM, I think about $100 ea. Save the $ with the aftermarket runs and use it for the oem regs.

Rear window regs are discontinued, need to do some searching.

Did you clean the commutators and check/replace the brushes while you were in there? If the commutators aren't overly worn, this is a good way to recover power that's been lost with age and use.

 

[cheezypoof]

Did you clean the commutators and check/replace the brushes while you were in there? If the commutators aren't overly worn, this is a good way to recover power that's been lost with age and use.

My windows aren't electrified lol (60 hand crank)

But I think the regulator itself may be the same for the 62. Certainly the runs will be.

 

[Super77]

how hard are the corners to do since they're not really molded?
Also what's flocked mean with these? I have new regulators but my windows are notoriously hard to roll down. Im interested in trying other things to fix the problem!

Flocked means that they have a fuzzy texture, unlike the smooth rubber of the original. The flocking helps the glass glide in the channel. Many modern cars have flocked window runs.

Getting a sharp 90 deg corner is really not as hard as it might seem. Order a couple extra feet and practice. You only need a sharp pair of scissors or nippers. If you bend a piece of the run into a right angle, you will see where the extra material bulges out - just need to snip that off. When you lay it flat again, it will look like 2 v-shaped notches opposite each other. Start feeding in the run at that corner, pushing it in with a narrow screwdriver. Done well, you won’t even see that it’s been notched.

 

[Spook50]

My windows aren't electrified lol (60 hand crank)

But I think the regulator itself may be the same for the 62. Certainly the runs will be.

I believe they are. Just the 62 has an electric motor attached. I lube the pivot points of my assemblies with Fluid Film and make sure the horizontal tracks with the wheels are clean and that the wheels are in good shape. Thinking to maintain them I'll have to make this a yearly thing. It sure made a big difference when I did it late last spring, cleaning off the old dried up lithium grease and squirting Fluid Film into the joints (and wheel axles/mounts).

 

[OGBeno]

I believe they are. Just the 62 has an electric motor attached. I lube the pivot points of my assemblies with Fluid Film and make sure the horizontal tracks with the wheels are clean and that the wheels are in good shape. Thinking to maintain them I'll have to make this a yearly thing. It sure made a big difference when I did it late last spring, cleaning off the old dried up lithium grease and squirting Fluid Film into the joints (and wheel axles/mounts).

The regulator will not be the same between a manual crank window regulator and a powered window regulator.

 

[Spook50]

The regulator will not be the same between a manual crank window regulator and a powered window regulator.

Ah I stand corrected.

 

[Paco]

@Super77 This is excellent! Have been looking for a good source for a while now. Are these glued in or just press in place? Were you able to pull the old ones out in one piece and use as a template?

Also for powered regulators I rebuilt my motors (24 V so hard to find and $$$).

 

[Super77]

@Super77 This is excellent! Have been looking for a good source for a while now. Are these glued in or just press in place? Were you able to pull the old ones out in one piece and use as a template?

Neither the originals nor the replacements are glued in. They just press-fit in place. And you don’t need a template. Just measure both ways from the window corner to locate the area to snip, and leave a couple inches to trim off at the bottom of the run. IIRC, the hinge side of the door can be left long, but the latch side has a hard stop.

You will need to remove the door cards and at least cut into the plastic sheet underneath it. That’s the only way to get at the bottom of the window run channel.

If anyone does the rears, post it up here. I’m curious whether they present any unique challenge. I imagine the corner-snips will need to be more precisely measured on the back doors since there will be two of them separated by a fixed distance. The front doors only have one snip, so locating it isn’t a big deal if you leave a little extra on both ends of the run.

I noticed that on Amazon you can buy 160’ for $339 shipped. That’s enough for all 4 doors on 4 cruisers with some to spare, at about $85 per truck. Even if you have to add extra for re-shipping cut lengths to your 3 friends, it’s a reasonable group buy. In fact, I’m in for 20’ if someone else is doing just 2 doors.

 

[ProwlerDriver]

Flocked means that they have a fuzzy texture, unlike the smooth rubber of the original. The flocking helps the glass glide in the channel. Many modern cars have flocked window runs.

Getting a sharp 90 deg corner is really not as hard as it might seem. Order a couple extra feet and practice. You only need a sharp pair of scissors or nippers. If you bend a piece of the run into a right angle, you will see where the extra material bulges out - just need to snip that off. When you lay it flat again, it will look like 2 v-shaped notches opposite each other. Start feeding in the run at that corner, pushing it in with a narrow screwdriver. Done well, you won’t even see that it’s been notched.

I bought all new OEM replacements, I think 8 years ago... and they are all flocked.

 

[SCJensen]

I just put in a set of front and rear runs made by Precision Products - very much like originals and properly formed. Ordered on Summit racing and each door was $26 with free shipping from buying all 4. Really easy to install without taking doors apart and no cutting required. Good solution for me.
GRB 5120 81 and GRB 5110 81 Glass Run Channel

 

[Spook50]

@Super77 This is excellent! Have been looking for a good source for a while now. Are these glued in or just press in place? Were you able to pull the old ones out in one piece and use as a template?

Also for powered regulators I rebuilt my motors (24 V so hard to find and $$$).

I had a few small pieces of thin butyl tape I put in place along the top to help hold my OEM runs in place when the windows come down. The force of the window when it closes presses them good and flat over time.

 

[Super77]

I just put in a set of front and rear runs made by Precision Products - very much like originals and properly formed. Ordered on Summit racing and each door was $26 with free shipping from buying all 4. Really easy to install without taking doors apart and no cutting required. Good solution for me.
GRB 5120 81 and GRB 5110 81 Glass Run Channel

Wow, that’s pretty good if they’re equal quality to the OEMs.

I originally bought formed runs from one of the vendors here and they were so flimsy and twisted that the runs barely stayed in place when the glass went up and down. For me, the high quality of the “by-the-foot” run I used was worth the trouble of making my own corners, but pre-made seems easier.

 

[Miloslavich]

Precision sells these for 45 bucks. Precision Product GRB 5110 81 Detail Page

not sure if they are flocked, or any good. I've not tried them FYI