gray rider
SILVER Star
Well, there is an option that costs zero.....
Replacement speakers (1 Viewer)
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gray rider
SILVER Star
But may not sound that good......
Crutchfield is my first and last stop. Replacing the headunit in my 99 was a breeze. It took longer to take the original out than to put the new in. I paid for the wiring service they have — you get an adapter that is completely plug and play. $24 well spent.
Hey Brices123! I know its been a while, but are you happy with those Fosgate 165X3s? I am considering those for the rear doors and installing the Fosgate 165-S with the component tweeter to replace the lower woofers and tweeters up by the door mirrors in the front doors. Did you replace those tweeters? I've also considered swapping out the amplifier but don't know how big a job that is. I am going to be pulling the carpets so figured now is the time.
I just installed all new door speakers, bypassed the factory amp and installed a new 4 channel amp and a new head unit and backup camera.
I disconnected and removed the factory rear cargo area "subwoofer" speakers (comprised of 2x 4" 2ohm speakers) and
Door speakers i went with are polks, head unit is pioneer touchscreen and amp is a focal. All from crutch field. It's a big job, but doable.
I left the factory front door tweeters as they actually still sound great and enhance the "treble" sounds allowing the eq on the other speakers to lean more bass.
You crack open the dash, and remove door panels. I also removed glove box and under steering wheel trim and front passenger seat. I did not remove carpets, only sills and trim pieces where needed.
The tricky part is the factory amp bypass. I found the wiring diagram with enough google-ing. And the toyota tech lc forum had the instructions for the amp power wires bypass. I don't miss the rear "subwoofer" at all. System sounds phenomenal with the 4 door speakers and the original oem tweeters.
Hello! I just picked up a 98 LC100 as well. Exactly like you, mine came with an Alpine touch screen head unit already upgraded. I am about to pull and replace the carpets (going with OC AutoCarpets), lay DynaMat, and upgrade speakers, the rear subwoofer, the factory amplifier behind the glove box, and install back up and front grill cameras. A key unknown are the dimensions and replacement of the tweeter speaker behind the triangular grill by the mirrors in the front doors. I also intend to reupholster the seats using the Land Cruiser Heaven leather kit. Curious what you ended up doing and using for your upgrades?
Thanks. Tim.
My factory
Sounds like you're doing it right.
Dynamat is the way to go - I have the goose gear seat delete (prev owner), and arb fridge and camp kitchen, so I didn't remove carpets, but that will be awesome to have all new and will make your amp/speaker wiring MUCH easier.
My factory amp was making the head unit short circuit and causing a crazy loud whining sound intermittently, so it had to go.
**You mentioned amp behind glove box...MY FACTORY AMP WAS LOCATED UNDER MY FRONT PASSENGER SEAT - NOT GLOVEBOX.
The backup cam is a must when you're doing everything else. I may also add a front camera.
My aftermarket head unit was old and it sucked so I did new Pioneer touchscreen.
Here's the link to the forum with instructions on how to convert from factory amp to aftermarket:
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stra
tlcfaq.com
*Be careful - the rear driver side door speaker wires change color somewhere in the car, so just make sure you ready the diagram below correctly.
and here's my crutchfield cart:
I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Sounds great. I did call Crutchfield with a couple questions twice and they were great and super helpful. This was my first time doing "wiring" this in-depth. Would do it myself again.
And these are the 2 rear "sub" speakers I ordered but ended up not putting in for now.
PowerBass OE-400
4" midrange car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers
www.crutchfield.com
These will fit in the factory mounting positions and screw holes.
I did not replace the factory tweeters. Mine still sound good.
I also ended up getting a parking brake bypass for the head unit off ebay - unlocks features of the head unit while in gear.My factory
Sounds like you're doing it right.
Dynamat is the way to go - I have the goose gear seat delete (prev owner), and arb fridge and camp kitchen, so I didn't remove carpets, but that will be awesome to have all new and will make your amp/speaker wiring MUCH easier.
My factory amp was making the head unit short circuit and causing a crazy loud whining sound intermittently, so it had to go.
**You mentioned amp behind glove box...MY FACTORY AMP WAS LOCATED UNDER MY FRONT PASSENGER SEAT - NOT GLOVEBOX.
The backup cam is a must when you're doing everything else. I may also add a front camera.
My aftermarket head unit was old and it sucked so I did new Pioneer touchscreen.
Here's the link to the forum with instructions on how to convert from factory amp to aftermarket:
Pics of factory amp wiring below should save you some heartaches (I believe these are applicable to '98 - '00? only):Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stratlcfaq.com
*Be careful - the rear driver side door speaker wires change color somewhere in the car, so just make sure you ready the diagram below correctly.
View attachment 3051872
View attachment 3051871
View attachment 3051869
and here's my crutchfield cart:
View attachment 3051876
View attachment 3051877
I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Sounds great. I did call Crutchfield with a couple questions twice and they were great and super helpful. This was my first time doing "wiring" this in-depth. Would do it myself again.
And these are the 2 rear "sub" speakers I ordered but ended up not putting in for now.
(*I didn't put them in mostly because I bought a 4-channel amp, and then realized I would need an additional mono amp, or a 5-channel versus the 4-channel and I figured, well let's see how the 4 doors and 2 tweeters sounds, and if it's missing bass I'll add the subs in...It sounds great, and I'll be returning these 4" speakers.)PowerBass OE-400
4" midrange car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers
These will fit in the factory mounting positions and screw holes.
I did not replace the factory tweeters. Mine still sound good.
And I used speedwire (9-wire) to go from new focal amp to the existing truck speaker wires under the passenger seat.
I love the whole setup. Feels like a new car.
I also added cabin air filters from Amazon while I had the glovebox out.
Oh man - I cannot tell you how super helpful this information is. Two questions... I definitely want to install that pair of 4" subwoofers in the back (I believe there is plenty of room back there to mount them - but the Crutchfield website says they will NOT fit (but that doesn't mean they won't). Curious if you spoke with Crutchfield about it when you bought them. I am glad you told me you went with Polks as I had selected the Rockford Fosgates (which are a little cheaper) - but on second glance they are highly rated for clarity and brightness of sound, and universally panned for lack of bass and requiring a sub-woofer install. I'm switching to Polk DB652s because you are happy running them without any subs at all. I'll also buy 2 of those Boyo cameras and run one for back-up and one in the grill. DynaMat in the doors and on the floors is going to be expensive... but sounds well worth it. Got a link to the cabin filters you got on Amazon? I've searched for them and keep getting the engine air filter.My factory
Sounds like you're doing it right.
Dynamat is the way to go - I have the goose gear seat delete (prev owner), and arb fridge and camp kitchen, so I didn't remove carpets, but that will be awesome to have all new and will make your amp/speaker wiring MUCH easier.
My factory amp was making the head unit short circuit and causing a crazy loud whining sound intermittently, so it had to go.
**You mentioned amp behind glove box...MY FACTORY AMP WAS LOCATED UNDER MY FRONT PASSENGER SEAT - NOT GLOVEBOX.
The backup cam is a must when you're doing everything else. I may also add a front camera.
My aftermarket head unit was old and it sucked so I did new Pioneer touchscreen.
Here's the link to the forum with instructions on how to convert from factory amp to aftermarket:
Pics of factory amp wiring below should save you some heartaches (I believe these are applicable to '98 - '00? only):Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stratlcfaq.com
*Be careful - the rear driver side door speaker wires change color somewhere in the car, so just make sure you ready the diagram below correctly.
View attachment 3051872
View attachment 3051871
View attachment 3051869
and here's my crutchfield cart:
View attachment 3051876
View attachment 3051877
I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Sounds great. I did call Crutchfield with a couple questions twice and they were great and super helpful. This was my first time doing "wiring" this in-depth. Would do it myself again.
And these are the 2 rear "sub" speakers I ordered but ended up not putting in for now.
(*I didn't put them in mostly because I bought a 4-channel amp, and then realized I would need an additional mono amp, or a 5-channel versus the 4-channel and I figured, well let's see how the 4 doors and 2 tweeters sounds, and if it's missing bass I'll add the subs in...It sounds great, and I'll be returning these 4" speakers.)PowerBass OE-400
4" midrange car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers
These will fit in the factory mounting positions and screw holes.
I did not replace the factory tweeters. Mine still sound good.
Here's the filters:Oh man - I cannot tell you how super helpful this information is. Two questions... I definitely want to install that pair of 4" subwoofers in the back (I believe there is plenty of room back there to mount them - but the Crutchfield website says they will NOT fit (but that doesn't mean they won't). Curious if you spoke with Crutchfield about it when you bought them. I am glad you told me you went with Polks as I had selected the Rockford Fosgates (which are a little cheaper) - but on second glance they are highly rated for clarity and brightness of sound, and universally panned for lack of bass and requiring a sub-woofer install. I'm switching to Polk DB652s because you are happy running them without any subs at all. I'll also buy 2 of those Boyo cameras and run one for back-up and one in the grill. DynaMat in the doors and on the floors is going to be expensive... but sounds well worth it. Got a link to the cabin filters you got on Amazon? I've searched for them and keep getting the engine air filter.
Denso 453-1001 Cabin Air Filter for select Lexus LX470 models Amazon product ASIN B000CJD48E
And i know for sure that those powerbass will fit because I actually mounted them and plugged in the speaker wires....but then realized i didnt want to run the 4 door speakers off 2 channels on the amp and the "subs" off the 3rd and fourth.
My factory
Sounds like you're doing it right.
Dynamat is the way to go - I have the goose gear seat delete (prev owner), and arb fridge and camp kitchen, so I didn't remove carpets, but that will be awesome to have all new and will make your amp/speaker wiring MUCH easier.
My factory amp was making the head unit short circuit and causing a crazy loud whining sound intermittently, so it had to go.
**You mentioned amp behind glove box...MY FACTORY AMP WAS LOCATED UNDER MY FRONT PASSENGER SEAT - NOT GLOVEBOX.
The backup cam is a must when you're doing everything else. I may also add a front camera.
My aftermarket head unit was old and it sucked so I did new Pioneer touchscreen.
Here's the link to the forum with instructions on how to convert from factory amp to aftermarket:
Pics of factory amp wiring below should save you some heartaches (I believe these are applicable to '98 - '00? only):Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stratlcfaq.com
*Be careful - the rear driver side door speaker wires change color somewhere in the car, so just make sure you ready the diagram below correctly.
View attachment 3051872
View attachment 3051871
View attachment 3051869
and here's my crutchfield cart:
View attachment 3051876
View attachment 3051877
I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Sounds great. I did call Crutchfield with a couple questions twice and they were great and super helpful. This was my first time doing "wiring" this in-depth. Would do it myself again.
And these are the 2 rear "sub" speakers I ordered but ended up not putting in for now.
(*I didn't put them in mostly because I bought a 4-channel amp, and then realized I would need an additional mono amp, or a 5-channel versus the 4-channel and I figured, well let's see how the 4 doors and 2 tweeters sounds, and if it's missing bass I'll add the subs in...It sounds great, and I'll be returning these 4" speakers.)PowerBass OE-400
4" midrange car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers
These will fit in the factory mounting positions and screw holes.
I did not replace the factory tweeters. Mine still sound good.
Thanks! Much, much appreciated. Will post some pics as I run through the whole series of installs. ;D
So if I stick with the factory amp for the time being... it is practically a "plug and play" on that pair of 4" mid-range subs in the back? Unfortunately, for some reason I think my amplifier is not mounted under my seat... but
Unfortunately, for some reason I think my amplifier is not mounted under my seat... but Hey 27South - if I am not yet swapping out the factory amplifier... I could just bolt that pair of 4 ohm mids into the back and they'd be "plug and play", right? I may do all that then just leave the final amplifier swap for a pro - but at least I've got all the speakers mounted and I'll save some pro labor on that front.
I think that's correct.So if I stick with the factory amp for the time being... it is practically a "plug and play" on that pair of 4" mid-range subs in the back?
Hey 27South - if I am not yet swapping out the factory amplifier... I could just bolt that pair of 4 ohm mids into the back and they'd be "plug and play", right? I may do all that then just leave the final amplifier swap for a pro - but at least I've got all the speakers mounted and I'll save some pro labor on that front.
So you would have aftermarket head unit sending signals to factory amp, which sends signals to aftermarket speakers (4x doors and 2x subs) using exisitng speaker wire.
*the speakers that you put in for the "subs" have to be 2 ohm each to work with the factory amp. (Those powerbass oe400s are just that.)
Quick Follow-Up Question...
Well, I've got my interior completely ripped apart, the seats are at the upholsterer, and I'm laying DynaMat. I have practically mirrored your Crutchfield carts with only 2 exceptions. Instead of the Focal 4 channel amp you got, I am replacing the factory amp with a Polk Audio 5-channel amp. Therein lies my question. I think you replaced the pair of 4" mids in the back with the PowerBass OE-400s - which are 2 ohm mids to work with the factory amp. Since you ran with the Focal aftermarket amp and an aftermarket head unit, were you still able to use the 2 ohm, OE-400s or did you have to switch to something that could take more power?
Also, this is probably a neophyte question... but why did you need to bypass the factory amp - was it not removed entirely when you installed the Focal and just connected the new speakers and head unit to the Focal?
Hello!
Well, I've got my interior completely ripped apart, the seats are at the upholsterer, and I'm laying DynaMat. I have practically mirrored your Crutchfield carts with only 2 exceptions. Instead of the Focal 4 channel amp you got, I am replacing the factory amp with a Polk Audio 5-channel amp. Therein lies my question. I think you replaced the pair of 4" mids in the back with the PowerBass OE-400s - which are 2 ohm mids to work with the factory amp. Since you ran with the Focal aftermarket amp and an aftermarket head unit, were you still able to use the 2 ohm, OE-400s or did you have to switch to something that could take more power?
Also, this is probably a neophyte question... but why did you need to bypass the factory amp - was it not removed entirely when you installed the Focal and just connected the new speakers and head unit to the Focal?
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