Replacement for Rear Wiper Diverter Valve (1 Viewer)

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davework

Cruiser Hardware: OverlandMetric.com
Supporting Vendor
Joined
May 6, 2005
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103
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805
Location
Clearwater, FL
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www.overlandmetric.com
Finally got tired of buying rear wiper valves and I like having the squirter back there. Found this valve after looking for a little bit. More expensive than OEM, but should last forever with this light duty application (knock on wood as I am sure that's Mr T thought about his valve also).

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/5844

Then to hook it up:

(2) Blade Terminals
Some 1/4 Heat Shrink
Some 1/2 Heat Shrink
10-12in of Wire
Solder and Iron
(3) 1/4 NPT to 1/8 Barb Elbows

Machine Screw, Locknut, and Washer if you want to reuse the old mount.

Pop the top off of the old valve and un-solder the connector so you can use the existing connector from the wire harness:

IMG_2202.jpg


Then crimp the blade terminals on one end of the wire, heat shrink those, put the large heat shrink on over both wires (to cover the bare end of the connector), and put smaller heat shrink on each wire. Truthfully, all the heat shrink probably not necessary, but I had it on hand. Solder the other end of the wire to the old connector, and shrink all the heat shrink:

IMG_2205.jpg


IMG_2206.jpg


I wanted to reuse the existing mount, so I found a configuration that works with where the hoses come out. You need to pop the top from the mounting arm carefully, but it comes off.

IMG_2209.jpg


Then use a small machine screw, fender washer, and locknut (I had them on hand) to mount the new valve upside down:

IMG_2217.jpg


The straight barb fittings don't work great, so I switched to elbows. I had to order them from Grainger to find them (Item IZKB2) $10 for 10 of them though:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ELDON-JAMES-Elbow-1ZKB2

If anyone wants the leftovers PM me. The elbows were hard to find, but Ace had the straight fittings for like $0.75/ea.

Mount it up with the original bolt and plug it in.

The only thing I noticed is that the front squirters squirt a little bit right after you release the twist to activate the rear squirters.

Ready for the winter!
 
Very cool mod!

Any pics mounted in place?








#2K
 
This thread just reminded me I need to fix mine before the snow starts flying. Thanks for posting this.
 
on our 80, some PO had just plugged in the water tubes the wrong way - the valve itself was fine :rolleyes:
 
Valve spec sheet from Mfg:

http://www.sprayervalves.com/specs/downloads/22043way.pdf

Shows which port does what and that a #6 machine screw is needed to mount.

We'll soon see if it holds up in freezing weather, but my first thought was that as long as the fluid in it doesn't freeze, it will be fine.
 
on our 80, some PO had just plugged in the water tubes the wrong way - the valve itself was fine :rolleyes:

What was the symptom?

On my 80, when i tried to wash the windshield, i got weak pressure. When i tried to wash the rear window, it dribbled out of both ports.

I figured it was rusted up inside like we've seen on some others, so i removed it and took it apart to get the connector to do this mod. Also installed a barb union so i at least have the windshield washer jets working.

Thing is, when i took it apart, it was not rusted internally.

The soft perforated disc was starting to delaminate which probably made it thicker than it should be, so maybe that was the point of failure.

At any rate, given it's reputation, I do not want to throw money down the toilet on another toyota diverter valve.
 
Do diverter valves off later model Landcruisers or other Toyota's (Sequoia, FourRunner, etc) fit and do they last any longer??
 
What was the symptom?

On my 80, when i tried to wash the windshield, i got weak pressure. When i tried to wash the rear window, it dribbled out of both ports.

I figured it was rusted up inside like we've seen on some others, so i removed it and took it apart to get the connector to do this mod. Also installed a barb union so i at least have the windshield washer jets working.

Thing is, when i took it apart, it was not rusted internally.

The soft perforated disc was starting to delaminate which probably made it thicker than it should be, so maybe that was the point of failure.

At any rate, given it's reputation, I do not want to throw money down the toilet on another toyota diverter valve.

there was no fluid to the rear window, and the front was also weak

when I installed the new valve from CDan with the lines as I had found them, it still would not work in the rear, and that's when I found that the lines were not correctly hooked up :doh:

for all I know, the old valve could still be defective - like I said, I didn't open it up
 
Any report on the performance of this valve in the winter, now that winter is here for real?
 
winter ? in Baton Rouge ? yeah, last I used it, it worked
 
nice!
 
I noticed that the specifications state it is for 32 to 150F.
The valve may become damaged below freezing.

This should not be an issue provided the washer bottle is filled with fluid protected down to below temps likely to be encountered. The vendor specs undoubtedly refer to use of the valve with water, where anything below 32 degrees will freeze and damage the valve. So long as the washer fluid is freeze-protected, it should be OK at the low end.

As for the 150 F upper limit, that might be a problem for some, although I suspect it's OK above 180, too. The thermometer on my manifold-mounted food warming basket can read over 180 degrees in the summer, so the underhood temps easily exceed 150 F. However, mostly likely it's only the plastic that softens and the valve will likely be OK so long as it's not subjected to extreme mechanical stress when heated above 150 in our trucks.
 
Nice out of the box thinking my friend, well done. I need to address mine one of these days. Heck, I don't even know where the dang thing lives!
 

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