Replaced water pump,thermostat,coupling oil.. still overheating! (1 Viewer)

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vancouver, bc canada
Just picked up my first landcruiser its a 1986 HJ60 auto, truck is overheating when i go up the mountain close to my house but i can go for longer hyw driving and no major issues, was going to replace radiator but was send a manual transmission radiator mine is an auto, replaced water pump, thermostat and filled the viscus oil in the fan clutch, new belts and coolant found temp was staying lower then noral but i went up the mountain and it over heated to the boiling point, is there any other issues i might have missed other then the radiator and if so whats a good brand radiator to go with for the diesel auto
 
Hi, Park facing up hill ,let cool ,open radiator cap,idle truck, fill radiator as air bubbles come out. May take 15-30 minutes. Mike
 
I would put in a transmission cooler, since you have an automatic and are only overheating up mountains.
Should take care of the issue...
 
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I say put a new fan clutch and see. A new radiator would be nice too but lets wait for a new fan clutch.
 
Just picked up my first landcruiser its a 1986 HJ60 auto, truck is overheating when i go up the mountain close to my house but i can go for longer hyw driving and no major issues, was going to replace radiator but was send a manual transmission radiator mine is an auto, replaced water pump, thermostat and filled the viscus oil in the fan clutch, new belts and coolant found temp was staying lower then noral but i went up the mountain and it over heated to the boiling point, is there any other issues i might have missed other then the radiator and if so whats a good brand radiator to go with for the diesel auto
Just order a Toyota radiator for that model or have the existing radiator re cored
 
Ever flush the cooling system? On my 61 it was full with grease stuff and deposit of old coolant. How the old coolant look?
 
No the fan sounds normal to me and the engine runs quite smooth

I say put a new fan clutch and see. A new radiator would be nice too but lets wait for a new fan clutch.

This above all else for me helped with my cooling system and keeping the engine cool. Replaced radiator, WP, belts, hoses, thermostat, fan and fan clutch, etc. My old fan clutch just wouldn't ever come on reliably and honestly I didn't really realize it wasn't working correctly until I got a new one. Once I got the new one on it was like, 'well now that's what they sound like', and the thing ran cooler than it ever had since owning it. You can really see the change in the temp gauge reading between the fan off and the fan on. Soon as I hear it come on, the temps drop out very quickly. Without a properly working fan/fan clutch these cooling systems just don't keep up. Folks I don't think realize how important the clutch is towards getting the engine cool. Good you are getting a pressure test.

When you say 'sounds normal' OP, what does normal mean to you? If its not been done, just replace the clutch and see what you get then. HTH.
 
This above all else for me helped with my cooling system and keeping the engine cool. Replaced radiator, WP, belts, hoses, thermostat, fan and fan clutch, etc. My old fan clutch just wouldn't ever come on reliably and honestly I didn't really realize it wasn't working correctly until I got a new one. Once I got the new one on it was like, 'well now that's what they sound like', and the thing ran cooler than it ever had since owning it. You can really see the change in the temp gauge reading between the fan off and the fan on. Soon as I hear it come on, the temps drop out very quickly. Without a properly working fan/fan clutch these cooling systems just don't keep up. Folks I don't think realize how important the clutch is towards getting the engine cool. Good you are getting a pressure test.

When you say 'sounds normal' OP, what does normal mean to you? If its not been done, just replace the clutch and see what you get then. HTH.
If your radiator is the original then it needs replacing. As for the viscous clutch fan that also should be replaced. The temperature gauge should always read the same if the cooling system is functioning properly it should never vary no matter what the ambient air temperature is. On days of high ambient temperature say 37 to 40 degrees Celsius the viscous clutch fan will cycle more frequently. I live in Australia and we get very high summer temperatures and since I completely overhauled the cooling system in my Landcruiser 61series I did not perceive any real change in the temperature gauge reading it maintained a reading on first Mark which is the 1/4 Mark.
Cheers mate
 
Can't add much but for two things-

-Split the fan shroud (well documented procedure)
- get a separate mechanical gauge for actual numbers on those temps
 
Can I add why the lowest cost price point of the cooling system , the “ guage “ sender itself was not diagnostics per the FSM , or simply replaced as a matter of course and piece of teq mind ?

I just looked it up and I can grab a OEM toyota one for just under 17$ ?

my 3 cents ?
 
I was going to ask if the temp was ever verified by something besides the factory gage. Either a laser type temp gage or an aftermarket gage install?
 
I was going to ask if the temp was ever verified by something besides the factory gage. Either a laser type temp gage or an aftermarket gage install?

No the temp has not been verified by anything other the oem temp gauge and the fact that when it does overheat going up hill the coolant starts to boil over
 
No the temp has not been verified by anything other the oem temp gauge and the fact that when it does overheat going up hill the coolant starts to boil over
Ok. Well the stock gages are notoriously inaccurate. However boiling coolant conforms to the laws of physics and thermodynamics pretty reliably 😂
 
in th FJ60, putting in a lower temp thermostat will cause easier overheating and worse gas mileage.

You need as steep a hill as possible to bleed system. Do 5 min, then open heater, then rear heater 5 min later. That's so u don't send early bubbles into heater cores.
 
I was chasing the same issues about 10 months ago. Changed WP, fan Clutch, flushed, burped, tested for exhaust in the coolant (blown HG), new radiator, blah, blah, blah.... Things improved for a day or so after the new radiator, but then overheated again. It was an original radiator so that probably wasn't helping, but it turns out that the end of the lower hard pipe that runs low on the PS had corroded under the clamp. It wasn't loose enough to leak, but during driving it wouldn't let the system stay pressurized. Go back and start simple and cheap. Double check every single hose clamp.
 

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