Replaced the Timing Belt & Water Pump

[FlatlandTRD]

Sorry I'm not doing a write up, there's plenty floating around in addition to the FSM that worked just great.
Timing Belt
Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement

Other than the crank pully bolt (the one that's 217 ft lbs), it was realatively pleasant. I did end up removing the radiator for protection and room. I'll get all the part #s up, and include some of the pointers I came across in my searches.

My timing belt was just fine after 108K, even the drive belts & coolant were okay. The new water pumps come with new and improved metal gaskets with impregnated rubber to substitute the old method of smearing on FIPG.

I was definitely glad to have done this in a my garage (not too hot, just a little cool) with plenty of extra tools on hand. And to be able to stop for lunch/dinner without worrying about a time frame. Plus, smoked pork, & cheesy corn bake, and a really hit the spot. I also had help from a fellow mud member, that way I was confident nothing was screwed up.

It does seem to run smoother now, and a light squeek noise is gone (but I'm still replacing the AC adjuster puller bearing). Even the wife said it sounds better. And I would almost swear it feels just a tad bit more responsive, but I wouldn't claim any gains.

Anyway, it's definitely achievable, and you learn some more about your 3.4.

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Okay, part numbers in case someone searches or just wants the info:

OEM Toyota P/Ns
No. 1 Idler Pulley (lower)- 13505-62070

No. 2 Idler Pulley (upper)- 13503-62040

Timing belt- 13568-69095

Water pump- 16100-69398-83

Water pump gasket (includes thermostat gasket)- 16325-62010

Thermostat- 90916-03075

Optional OEM P/Ns
Crank Bolt- 90119-16006

Tensioner assembly- 13540-62021

Crank oil seal- 90311-40022

Camshaft oil seals (same p/n for both)- 90311-38051

Drive belts (Mitsuboshi)
Alternator- 90080-91090-83

P/S- 99364-21070-83

A/C- 99364-20870-78

My A/C compressor bracket pulley had a slight squeek-squeek in it. So I removed the cylindrical roller bearing to replace it with a new. NSK P/N 6301 DU2

Other than that, The idler pulleys were probably okay, but the new ones were smoother. The tensioner could probably be reused but to get to it and check it, it's much easier if the A/C bracket is unbolted from the block (which means unbolting the A/C compressor, not that bad).

There's no need to remove the P/S pump, alternator, or oil dipstick & guide. You shouldn't need any kind of puller for the crankshaft pulley or crankshaft timing pulley, they slide off.

If there's any questions, don't hesitate.

 

[hoch]

I need to do this in the near future (106k miles). Any tricks on the crank pulley bolt other than brute strength? I have to say, having never done one before, I am very intimidated and not looking forward to it. But I always dread a repair/maintenance until I do it once, then I am comfortable and even look forward to it the next time.

 

[FlatlandTRD]

I need to do this in the near future (106k miles). Any tricks on the crank pulley bolt other than brute strength?

Either make the spanner-like-tool out of metal, or find one to rent. The two holes on the crank pulley are 2 7/8" center to center, the bolt a 19mm. The bar will rest against the frame, and a breaker bar with a pipe on the end will release the bolt.

Lining everything up, TDC, and putting the new belt on is simple. Cleaning the waterpump housing of all the old FIPG will probably be the most tedious part. It's easier to do eveything with the radiator out, but definitely not necessary, just protect it.

Like I mentioned, mine was fine and could have gone much longer with no worries. Since mine has been in the salt belt all it's life, that's pretty good. If the belt were to break, it would cause no damage other than inconvience (non interference). If the water pump were to fail, however, that would be very, very bad.

 

[Happy Trails]

Just had mine done at 90,000mi. Cost me $800 including tune-up and new wires. Ouch. I am not much
good with a wrench.

 

[BruceTS]

Since I've replaced timming belts in the past, this job is quite easy. On my 4Runner, I plan to wait til the belt breaks, before replacing. On the safe side, I already have a kit put together with all the parts/SST's to do the job. On long trips to kit goes with me, for local runs, it stays in my garage....

So far I've got almost 160K on the original belt, now I curious just how much longer it'll go. BTW I do remove the plastic timming cover to inspect the belt, especially before the longer trips. The belt still appears to be in excellent shape, no dry rot....

Another side note..... All my other belts are still factory originals, even though I really need to replace the AC belt, it squeals when I first turn it on......

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Isn't there an SST to push two pulleys apart? or any other SSTs?

 

[FlatlandTRD]

Isn't there an SST to push two pulleys apart? or any other SSTs?

Yes, they are all mentioned in the links and the FSM, but they are not required to do this job. You will only need to make/source the spanner type crank pulley tool to attack that bolt.

On another forum there's now a few who have made it past 200K, it's nice having a non-interference engine.

 

[jdunkman]

I bought all the parts to replace belt at 100k. Now at 230k, still have all teh parts to replace belt.

 

[apeterson]

when you guys did this...... I have everything taken apart and going back together... how difficult or how tight was the timing belt to put back on????? mine seems very difficult to get back on... only tried for about 5 min last night.... since it took me most of the day to take it apart I quit here.

 

[bowyer2002]

apeterson,
the timing belt should go on pretty easily, did you remove or compress the tensioner?
if you haven't done the tensioner, the belt will be almost impossible to get on.

BTW unless you have the SST from snap-on for the tensioner, the only way (I know of) to compress it and hold it in a compressed positon is to remove it and squeeze it in a vice.

 

[apeterson]

apeterson,
the timing belt should go on pretty easily, did you remove or compress the tensioner?
if you haven't done the tensioner, the belt will be almost impossible to get on.

BTW unless you have the SST from snap-on for the tensioner, the only way (I know of) to compress it and hold it in a compressed positon is to remove it and squeeze it in a vice.

yup... I got the tool... and compressed it and now got the pin in there... it is def. compressed... but like I said the belt just seems a little too tight to go on...

 

[bowyer2002]

It has been 2yrs since I did a timing belt - but i don't remember having to wrestle it on.
Anyone else want to chime in?

 

[FlatlandTRD]

apeterson, did you get your belt from Mr. T? Sometimes other belt brands will be a little more tight, but you shouldn't have to crank it on there. It will be tight even with the tensioner compressed, but still go on. It also helps to have another set of hands to hold everything in place when you pull the pin on the grenade..err tensioner.

 

[apeterson]

apeterson, did you get your belt from Mr. T? Sometimes other belt brands will be a little more tight, but you shouldn't have to crank it on there. It will be tight even with the tensioner compressed, but still go on. It also helps to have another set of hands to hold everything in place when you pull the pin on the grenade..err tensioner.

nope it is OEM toyota.... I tried last night for 45 min and I could not get it on... it is just too tight... I can not even get the old one back on.... what the hell am I doing wrong...

 

[apeterson]

here is a pic of how it looks right now.... cant get old or new one back on... there has to be some trick I just dont know... I got about 2 hours into trying to get it on.... I feel like a tard...

someone please help....

fyi I know my cam gear is off in this pic

bottom pic is before old belt came off

 

[zetasig]

FWIW, I did mine about 2 months ago. I got a tip from the Toy Dealer mechanic, Line up the arrows on the new belt, with the two cam arrows. Then put two pinch clamps or small c clamps on the cams to hold the belt in place on the cams. This will hold the belt against the cams correctly. and free up both of your hands to work the bottom of the belt.

I dont recall having to wrestle too much with mine, but it definetly took a few tries. The cogs need to be lined up with the crank on the bottom secondly after the cams, and then everyting just kind of slips on. It was a tight fit, but it will go on. I did not get an OEM belt, but I lined up both of them next to one another to make sure they were the same size.

 

[apeterson]

FWIW, I did mine about 2 months ago. I got a tip from the Toy Dealer mechanic, Line up the arrows on the new belt, with the two cam arrows. Then put two pinch clamps or small c clamps on the cams to hold the belt in place on the cams. This will hold the belt against the cams correctly. and free up both of your hands to work the bottom of the belt.

I dont recall having to wrestle too much with mine, but it definetly took a few tries. The cogs need to be lined up with the crank on the bottom secondly after the cams, and then everyting just kind of slips on. It was a tight fit, but it will go on. I did not get an OEM belt, but I lined up both of them next to one another to make sure they were the same size.

thank you.... I will try the clamps tonight...

 

[FlatlandTRD]

That sounds right, and I may have also loosened the #2 idler pulley bolt (lower one) to free up some slack. But you'll still want some rubber clamps or an extra set of hands.

 

[apeterson]

just wanted to let you guys know I did get it last night!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so happy... think I did a little dance... it definatly was a lot more difficult than I thought it was going to be.... I got everything else almost put back together also... just need to put radiator back in and I am set to go!!!!

Thanks again for all your guys help!!!