Replaced rear drum cylinder problem on drivers side. (1 Viewer)

[DeFuture]

Hey everyone,
I finally got around to replacing my cylinders, shoes and springs for the rear drums, after noticing they haven’t been working for the better part of six months.

Passenger side went on fine I bled the air from the line and that brakes worked fine. After installing the driver side and checking for leaks I can’t seem to get stiffness in the pedal when I step on the break. I’m sure they’re still still air in the line but after running through the purge cycle I can’t get stiffness back.

Should I bleed the whole system and do the whole thing all over? What could I be missing?

 

[poptart]

If it’s a FJ62 you might need to bleed the LSPV. It’s in front the gas tank and has a bar connecting to the rear axle. Otherwise, I’d just take the time to bleed everything.
What method are you using? A hose on the bleeder stuck into a bottle with brake fluid in it is a pretty easy way to make sure you’re not sucking air back in.

 

[DeFuture]

If it’s a FJ62 you might need to bleed the LSPV. It’s in front the gas tank and has a bar connecting to the rear axle. Otherwise, I’d just take the time to bleed everything.
What method are you using? A hose on the bleeder stuck into a bottle with brake fluid in it is a pretty easy way to make sure you’re not sucking air back in.

thanks for your response. It’s an 87 FJ60. Using the brake pedal and a friend method to pump the air out. Is there something else I should bleed under the hood or truck?

 

[Seth S]

What order did you bleed the brakes in? Did you make sure the reservoir level didn’t drop too low? Did you make sure your bleed valve was closed before your friend let pressure off the brake pedal? Did you adjust the rear shoe position after you put the drums on?

 

[2mbb]

What Seth says. There is a particular order that you should bleed the brakes, which is starting with the longest hydraulic path to the shortest: Left Rear, Right Rear, Left Front, Right Front.

Also you need to manually adjust the rear brakes after you put the drums on. The direction to turn the adjustment wheel always confuses me. It looks like to tighten you push the wheel down, and up to loosen. There is a locking mechanism that prevents the wheel from loosening by itself, so you might need to use another screw driver to push the locking mechanism away from the adjustment wheel.

 

[OSS]

and if your parking brake works as it should, it will adjust the rear brake tension automatically just by pulling on the hand brake firmly several times. No need to mess around with the adjusters through the backing plate hole to tighten up the rear brakes.

 

[DeFuture]

Thank you all for the response.

I'll get at it this week!

 

[DeFuture]

What Seth says. There is a particular order that you should bleed the brakes, which is starting with the longest hydraulic path to the shortest: Left Rear, Right Rear, Left Front, Right Front.

Also you need to manually adjust the rear brakes after you put the drums on. The direction to turn the adjustment wheel always confuses me. It looks like to tighten you push the wheel down, and up to loosen. There is a locking mechanism that prevents the wheel from loosening by itself, so you might need to use another screw driver to push the locking mechanism away from the adjustment wheel.

View attachment 2497037

I have not done this.. yet. but will now!