Replaced LSPV, now no brake fluid to rear wheels. (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Saint Augustine, Fl
I replaced a leaking LSPV on a new to me 96 LC, when I went to bleed the rear brakes I got maybe an ounce of dirty fluid from the PR and very little on the DR. I was able to bleed the LSPV and got good clean flow. Both of the front produce brake fluid when I bleed. I went back and forth from the LSPV and the rear tires and still got very little brake fluid from the caliper bleeders. When I replaced the LSPV I did not cap the lines or anything and they were open over night. I am assuming that their is a boat load of air in the rear lines and that is why I can't bleed anything from the rears. The weird thing is that the car still breaks when I tested them in the driveway. The pedal is soft but has resistant-doesn't go straight to the floor. Before the new LSPV the car drove fine around the neighborhood. The master cylinder always had brake fluid in it, even over night. I'm thinking I need to get one of the vacuum bleeders to pull air and brake fluid to the rear? Is the LSPV defective? Am I defective? Were the rear brakes already in-op? I did not adjust the LSPV for lift or anything, just replaced it.

20210214_212708.jpg


20210214_212711.jpg


20210214_212720.jpg


20210214_212725.jpg
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,519
Location
Deep East Texas
Push the lever (arm) all the way up (and leave it there while bleeding) so that the LSPV is fully activated and NOT restricted, otherwise you'll bleed the rear brakes until you're blue in the face. After you've bled them....you can reconnect the arm.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Saint Augustine, Fl
No. Disconnect from the axle end, and raise it up until the arm is as high as you can make it before it bends it. This opens the LSPV for full bleeding.

Yes, it pushes in the "blue thingy" like on the other one when you do that.
That maes sense, blue thing does down and opens lspv. Thank you sir.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Saint Augustine, Fl
Ok, So I disconnected the axle side of the lever and pushed upward as recommended, tried to bleed the brakes and did not get any fluid, I removed the LSPV side of the lever and tried to push up with a punch directly on the piston within the blue plastic thing and did not get any movement. I was pushing up hard enough to 'lift' the suspension and still no movement or break fluid. Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA. Also, when installing the LSPV I had to remove the snap ring and turn/align blue thing with the lever arm, not sure if this matters.
 

lumbee1

Native American
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Messages
3,576
Location
Holly Springs, NC
Ok, So I disconnected the axle side of the lever and pushed upward as recommended, tried to bleed the brakes and did not get any fluid, I removed the LSPV side of the lever and tried to push up with a punch directly on the piston within the blue plastic thing and did not get any movement. I was pushing up hard enough to 'lift' the suspension and still no movement or break fluid. Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA. Also, when installing the LSPV I had to remove the snap ring and turn/align blue thing with the lever arm, not sure if this matters.

I installed a union and threw away my LSPV for this very reason. It doesn't work well and once removed, my braking performance
dramatically increased.
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,519
Location
Deep East Texas
Ok, So I disconnected the axle side of the lever and pushed upward as recommended, tried to bleed the brakes and did not get any fluid, I removed the LSPV side of the lever and tried to push up with a punch directly on the piston within the blue plastic thing and did not get any movement. I was pushing up hard enough to 'lift' the suspension and still no movement or break fluid. Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA. Also, when installing the LSPV I had to remove the snap ring and turn/align blue thing with the lever arm, not sure if this matters.

So....at this juncture you'll need to determine if you have a free flowing, clear line leading INTO the LSPV. Disconnect the input line (that comes from the front of the vehicle) from the LSPV and see if fluid will gravity flow (drip from the line). Put down some rags or kitty litter to catch the fluid. IF it will...then you'll want to step forcefully on the brake pedal ONE time and note if there was a 'spray' of fluid.

Let us know.
 

landtank

Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
20,047
Location
Groveland MA
It could be the bleeders themselves. I’ve seen them clogged especially if the cap got lost. Also if you have speed bleeders installed they won’t allow you to bleed the lines with a lot of air because you can’t develop enough pressure to move the air past the check valve.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Saint Augustine, Fl
@flintknapper I will check that later tonight. With 2 young kids I only get an hour or so each night to work so trying to get multiple steps. If I get spray from the input line what would be the next step? I am assuming I will since I was able to get good flow/bleed from the LSPV bleeder. I am tempted to delete the LSPV but would like to keep it stock for the wife. Thank you.
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,519
Location
Deep East Texas
@flintknapper I will check that later tonight. With 2 young kids I only get an hour or so each night to work so trying to get multiple steps. If I get spray from the input line what would be the next step? I am assuming I will since I was able to get good flow/bleed from the LSPV bleeder. I am tempted to delete the LSPV but would like to keep it stock for the wife. Thank you.

OK well if you are already getting flow from the bleeder on the LSPV itself then SKIP the step I mentioned and move directly to the caliper.

Completely remove the bleeder screw there and inspect it. While it is out do the former mentioned test (see if fluid will gravity flow from the caliper and hit the pedal and look for spray). You'll either find a clogged bleeder at the caliper, a clogged line going to the caliper or Air still in the LSPV.

Look carefully at your bleeder screw from the caliper (especially if it wasn't capped) to see that both holes in it are open. There is a hole in the side of the bleeder screw down near the 'taper' that you can't see until you remove it. These often fill with rust.

And don't fret, you'll figure this out. FAMILY FIRST....the rest can wait.

Bleeder.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
40
Location
Saint Augustine, Fl
I Figured it out, I am defected. I am dumb and pushed up on the lspv arm once thinking that would do the trick, took your words literally.. After I tied the arm to the floor I got it to bleed just fine, no more dot 3 leaks on my driveway.
 
Last edited:

flintknapper

SILVER Star
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
9,519
Location
Deep East Texas
I Figured it out, I am defected. I am dumb and pushed up on the lspv arm once thinking that would do the trick, took your words literally.. After I tied the arm to the floor I got it to bleed just fine, no more dot 3 leaks on my driveway.

OK. Glad you got it sorted out.

You stayed after it and persevered. 👍 :wrench:


(I've gone back and edited my post to include 'leave it there') ;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom