Replaced fuel pump suction filter - pics

richj11

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A big THANK YOU to CDan for that box full of parts!

I decided to start easy and replace the fuel filters, both the one in the fuel tank and the inline one. I hadn't seen anyone post any pics of the in tank filter, so figured I would. Took about 2 hours to do them both, piece of cake.





 

TX_TLC

 
 
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Was this a PM? Or were you having problems? Make sure you post back with any gains...
 

richj11

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TX_TLC said:
Was this a PM? Or were you having problems? Make sure you post back with any gains...
Just a PM. I figured it is just one of those things that had probably never been replaced, and it definitely looked that way. After completion, I had to crank it a couple times, but once it started, it did seem to run a bit smoother. I need to get it out for a spin.

Maybe it just seemed smoother because I wanted it too be.....
 

richj11

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RavenTai said:
how much was the sock filter? hwo many miles do you have?

oops checked sig 235K,
The filter was less than $10. You would also need a couple gaskets for the banjo fitting in the pump discharge, a little clip that holds the filter on and a new gasket for the cover when you pull the pump out. I also chose to replace the rubber bumper ($15) that holds the bottom of the pump snug in the bracket. Could have reused the old one, but didn't want to get caught by surprise, so I ordered it and replaced it anyway. So, it was about $30 total. Cheap insurance!

Rich
 
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You happen to get any measurable gains from replacing both? MPG?

PO stated he replaced the inline filter and it improved an occasional stumble on acceleration, it still happens every now and again and I'm wondering if this could be something easy and cheap to try.

Did that stink up the interior with fuel smell afterwards? (if yes, I wouldnt want to do it in the winter when I couldnt leave the windows down).
 

richj11

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Montana Cruiser said:
You happen to get any measurable gains from replacing both? MPG?

PO stated he replaced the inline filter and it improved an occasional stumble on acceleration, it still happens every now and again and I'm wondering if this could be something easy and cheap to try.

Did that stink up the interior with fuel smell afterwards? (if yes, I wouldnt want to do it in the winter when I couldnt leave the windows down).
I haven't put enough miles on the Cruiser since I've had it to even know what kind of mileage it was getting. I went and filled up today, I'll drive it this week and see if it I notice any change. Definitely smoother running and acceleration. I also plan on doing the injectors next.

No smell of gas in the cab after doing this...

Rich
 
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I may have to get in there and change out the filters as well. The occasional growl I am hearing seems to be coming from the fuel pump. Maybe changing the filters will help. I know they have never been changed.
 

e9999

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was there any indication of the filter being clogged up?
 
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Thought I would add a couple of tips to this old thread, that might help others doing this.

First, thanks to Rich for detailing this - it made my in-tank filter swap much easier. It was all plain sailing until I tried to fit the new "sock" :

The replacement filter sock I recieved from Dan was an extremely tight press fit on the pump, compared to the old one. To fit it I first separated the pump from everything else so I could get both hands around it for grip. I then dipped the filter coupling in hot water for a minute, shook it dry, and forced it on a little with hand pressure. Then holding the pump perpendicular against my stomach (with the pump outlet facing me) and placing the back of the filter against my garage door wood 2x12 frame, I used body weight to press the pump into the new filter coupling - it finally went into place, and the wood ended up with a dent in it!

Next is the new clip that holds the sock on - if it goes on skew it will likely be damaged beyond repair, so one needs to get this right first time. To squarely fit the clip, I found a 5mm 1/4" drive socket used as a hand press, worked perfectly.

I hope this helps someone! Keith.
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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Did mine years ago as anal PM and also agree its wise to have a new rubber bumper thing on the bottom on hand. Can't recall exactly why - maybe easier to reassemble the new sock on? You'll not get any benefit from this performance wise unless the old one is terribly clogged and these pics show just discoloration from fuel varnish/plastic age. Good PM if you're heading off on an expedition, have fuel delivery suspicions, or just want to refresh at 200k or so. I recall using a vacuum with brush to totally clean the tank top off just before opening the hatch - prevents stuff dropping in as the tank top can be gritty since it's exposed to the road.

Also, somebody once reported an age/vibration related short on their 80 pump, so pay attention to the way they're routed when you pull it and inspect for wire chafing while it's out.

DougM
 
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Thanks for the posts and pics guys:)

I am baselining my rig and this info is extremely useful as I have never done this before!
 
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I know this is an OLD thread and I appreciate both the pictures and the experience relayed.

As to opening the gas tank, was the gas drained first? Siphoned off to plastic tanks?

Two reasons for asking, (1), I'm going to have to do this on my LC this summer (after a birf rebuild); and (2), my son and I have to drop the gas tank on his '93 Bronco. We need to replace rusted leaf spring carriers on his truck and the only way to get the rivets out so the old carriers can be removed is to drop the gas tank...

Yes. We are waiting until the weather is good enough so we can do it in the driveway versus the garage...

Thanks in advance.
 
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As to opening the gas tank, was the gas drained first? Siphoned off to plastic tanks?
I did not drain it when replacing the filter sock - my tank was about 2/3rd full. I have heard that fuller is safer i.e. an empty tank will explode, while a full tank will burn.

Lots of :skull: fumes, so work out in the open if you can - be careful to not create any sparks - make sure the kids stay away, etc.

Place a clean object (bucket lid, etc) over the hole once you have the filter/pump combo out of the tank and are working on it, to prevent insects and leaves falling in, etc.

Hth! Keith.
 

Bluetribal

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I am planning on taking out one of my middle row seats for an upcoming camping trips where I am going to try out sleeping in the cruiser instead of a tent. So while I have one seat out for my long legs I might as well take out the other one and flip back the carpet as that seams to be all you need to do to get to the filter. So am I correct in the ease of getting to this filter?
 
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I did not drain it when replacing the filter sock - my tank was about 2/3rd full. I have heard that fuller is safer i.e. an empty tank will explode, while a full tank will burn.
Good points, thank you.

My concern is even greater after hearing the local radio station's car repair talk show host tell a caller that all gas tank work should be done by professionals. Even then, sometimes they have problems. He mentioned a mechanic he knew that was severely burned when the flash fire was started from using a standard 75 watt trouble light...

He added that good venting and a fluorescent trouble light were mandatory.
 
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