Repairing threads 2nd row seats. (1 Viewer)

[leonard_nemoy]

I tried searching but couldn't find anything. One of the threaded holes for my 2nd row seats is toast. It was stripped out sometime in it's previous life. I cleaned the threads up with a tap but the bolt just spins and pulls out. The threads in the hole are basically gone.

I want to drill and tap the hole to the next size up but I want to make sure there is enough material in the floor before I start drilling.

Has anyone else done this? Does anyone know if there is enough metal to drill and tap new threads in the floor?

Thanks

 

[Grandlooser]

There will be but only go up the minimum in size. Even if switching to sae is closest. It sucks if you break the captive nut with a tap stuck in it.

 

[arndog123]

It’s been awhile since I’ve pulled my 2nd rows out so I probably don’t have a clue about what I’m talking about. How about using a longer bolt and nut/washer under the rig?

 

[enox]

It’s been awhile since I’ve pulled my 2nd rows out so I probably don’t have a clue about what I’m talking about. How about using a longer bolt and nut/washer under the rig?

This is what I was thinking would work good too...

 

[leonard_nemoy]

It’s been awhile since I’ve pulled my 2nd rows out so I probably don’t have a clue about what I’m talking about. How about using a longer bolt and nut/washer under the rig?

This is what I was thinking would work good too...

Gas tank is in the way.

 

[enox]

Gas tank is in the way.

Sheeeiitttt. I'd say then the easiest route is to re-tap with the next size..

If that doesn't work...could you weld a threaded rod on and then that one hole has a nut?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Sheeeiitttt. I'd say then the easiest route is to re-tap with the next size..

If that doesn't work...could you weld a threaded rod on and then that one hole has a nut?

Yeah, welding a stud was my other idea but I don't like the idea of a stud permanently sticking out of the floor. I usually have the 2nd row seats removed.

I think I am just going to go ahead and try drilling and taping new threads.

 

[White Stripe]

What about a helicoil?

 

[Comet]

Or weld, drill, and tap the same size it is now?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

What about a helicoil?

I have only used helicoils in once. A helicoil would probably work, I didn't really think about them. How strong is a helicoil compared to regular threads?

Or weld, drill, and tap the same size it is now?

Also an option, but I want to avoid welding in my truck if I can. Tapping new threads or using the helicoil sounds easier than pulling the carpet, welding, grinding, and painting.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I've used helicoils quite a bit. Depending on whether its a true insert or a just a coil they are as strong or stronger than the base material.
Probably more info than you need, but as an engineer I use these resources often.

Heli-Coil® Design Guidelines | STANLEY® Engineered Fastening

www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Well I went to the hardware store. A helicoil kit for M10*1.25 was $55.00....

Because I am not dealing with aluminum, I don't care if I use a different bolt, and I am a cheap SOB, I opted to go for the M12*1.25 tap and a bolt for $10.00

The helicoil kit would have required a 13/32" drill bit and the M12*1.25 required a 27/64" drill bit. Another reason I went with the tap was the fact that I only had to drill a 1/64" bigger hole. I figured if I didn't have enough steel in the reinforced floor area for the 27/64" bit than I wouldn't have adequate steel for the helicoil to hold up in a wreck or something.

Anyways for future prosperity there is enough material in the floor to drill and tap the 2nd row seat holes for an M12*1.25 thread.

Old buggered threads:

The tap:

New threads:

Good to go: