repair shop TOP END work advice? (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

hi all,
i'm hoping to lean on the gurus on the list a little more.
i'm going to bite the bullet and am planning on taking my 97 LX 450 (224K) in to the reputable shop here in town for a top end in the next month or so. i've been reading up to educate myself and i had some notion of working on it myself but i see that this is going to be more than i want to take on.
after tracking oil consumption for four or five months i can see it is burning too much oil. i'm not doing a great job recording this but if i had to give a specific number i would say over a quart in 500 miles. i had some hope this was an oil pump seal but i inspected this area with the mechanic and it is clear to me this was replaced before i got the vehicle so no leaking from the oil pump and this area is quite clean. long story short is the vehicle is burning a little oil on startup and my understanding is the valve seals are old so it is burning oil while driving but i don't see this.
as long as i am going in i want to be assured i am taking care of business so i don't mind spending a little extra money if it is advisable. i didn't talk to the top dog over at the shop yet about this repair so i am just assuming all of this is correct.
some numbers and some questions please?
i'd like to address any questions or needs with the big dog before i leave it so any help from the list about this would be GREAT. i've got a handful of mud threads over here i will pull out and chunk through again in the meantime.

numbers:
gasket set $330
antifreeze $50
oil/filter $65
labor $1980
total $2425
+ machining for the head (unknown cost)

questions/facts:
1. they seem to say they will replace the PHH while they are in there. it's supposed to have been replaced within the last 20K but if it is not a new silicone hose they seem to say they will replace it while they are in there. i gather this is fine obviously.
2. currently there is green coolant in the system. they will replaced with red. no reason not to i assume?
3. they indicated they will not test or replace the injectors. basically they said they never see them fail. they did say if i wanted to run them up to an injector shop they suppose i could but they see no reason to do this. alternatively i am considering putting in NEW injectors, and either running the old ones up to the injector shop and getting them fixed and selling those or just getting them tested and just selling the old ones. or just selling the old ones.
4. they indicated they keep a machined head on hand and usually just put that one in to save on turnaround time but they will also send mine out for repair and wait to get it back and put mine back in. i'm strongly inclined to have them use mine. thoughts?
5. anything else i should thing about doing as preventive maintenance while they are in there or any other thoughts?

reported service history which i have no reason to doubt at the moment:

service at ~220K
engine oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30)

service at ~200K
transfer case and differentials serviced (Royal Purple Gear lube)
all belts replaced
radiator hoses replaced (OEM)
coolant changed
oil pump seal replaced
front main seal replaced
distributor o-ring replaced
tune-up with spark plugs replaced
ignition wires replaced (OEM)
distributor cap and rotor replaced (OEM)
rotors and brake pads replaced
tires replaced
battery replaced
PHH replaced

other notes:
i'm in the vehicle for 7K. vehicle has a rather minty interior and the paint is good. i have a handful of miscellaneous and sundry repairs to get to - rear DS door lock actuator, door runners, speakers and a decent ding in the windshield but not much more to get to. and while i would have liked to have found a locked vehicle to put this money into the price of these is just going to go up. and if somehow i find someone sleep walking and selling a low mileage locked 97 for $3 - 5K i guess i could imagine grabbing it and doing this again after selling this one but for the time being i am happy with the vehicle (aside from the gas consumption of course). vehicle gets between 10 - 11 mph city.

THANKS as always for the help

 

[ifsmithy]

hi all,
i'm hoping to lean on the gurus on the list a little more.
i'm going to bite the bullet and am planning on taking my 97 LX 450 (224K) in to the reputable shop here in town for a top end in the next month or so. i've been reading up to educate myself and i had some notion of working on it myself but i see that this is going to be more than i want to take on.
after tracking oil consumption for four or five months i can see it is burning too much oil. i'm not doing a great job recording this but if i had to give a specific number i would say over a quart in 500 miles. i had some hope this was an oil pump seal but i inspected this area with the mechanic and it is clear to me this was replaced before i got the vehicle so no leaking from the oil pump and this area is quite clean. long story short is the vehicle is burning a little oil on startup and my understanding is the valve seals are old so it is burning oil while driving but i don't see this.
as long as i am going in i want to be assured i am taking care of business so i don't mind spending a little extra money if it is advisable. i didn't talk to the top dog over at the shop yet about this repair so i am just assuming all of this is correct.
some numbers and some questions please?
i'd like to address any questions or needs with the big dog before i leave it so any help from the list about this would be GREAT. i've got a handful of mud threads over here i will pull out and chunk through again in the meantime.

numbers:
gasket set $330
antifreeze $50
oil/filter $65
labor $1980
total $2425
+ machining for the head (unknown cost)

questions/facts:
1. they seem to say they will replace the PHH while they are in there. it's supposed to have been replaced within the last 20K but if it is not a new silicone hose they seem to say they will replace it while they are in there. i gather this is fine obviously.
2. currently there is green coolant in the system. they will replaced with red. no reason not to i assume?
3. they indicated they will not test or replace the injectors. basically they said they never see them fail. they did say if i wanted to run them up to an injector shop they suppose i could but they see no reason to do this. alternatively i am considering putting in NEW injectors, and either running the old ones up to the injector shop and getting them fixed and selling those or just getting them tested and just selling the old ones. or just selling the old ones.
4. they indicated they keep a machined head on hand and usually just put that one in to save on turnaround time but they will also send mine out for repair and wait to get it back and put mine back in. i'm strongly inclined to have them use mine. thoughts?
5. anything else i should thing about doing as preventive maintenance while they are in there or any other thoughts?

reported service history which i have no reason to doubt at the moment:

service at ~220K
engine oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30)

service at ~200K
transfer case and differentials serviced (Royal Purple Gear lube)
all belts replaced
radiator hoses replaced (OEM)
coolant changed
oil pump seal replaced
front main seal replaced
distributor o-ring replaced
tune-up with spark plugs replaced
ignition wires replaced (OEM)
distributor cap and rotor replaced (OEM)
rotors and brake pads replaced
tires replaced
battery replaced
PHH replaced

other notes:
i'm in the vehicle for 7K. vehicle has a rather minty interior and the paint is good. i have a handful of miscellaneous and sundry repairs to get to - rear DS door lock actuator, door runners, speakers and a decent ding in the windshield but not much more to get to. and while i would have liked to have found a locked vehicle to put this money into the price of these is just going to go up. and if somehow i find someone sleep walking and selling a low mileage locked 97 for $3 or $4K i guess i could imagine grabbing it and doing this again after selling this one but for the time being i am happy with the vehicle (aside from the gas consumption of course). vehicle gets between 10 - 11 mph city.

THANKS as always for the help

Doesn’t sound unreasonable to me - dollars wise......

1. phh is a 10 buck piece and they should throw it in for free considering how much your dropping!
2. Tell them to stick with the cheapest green coolant they can find - pref from Walmart! Search is your friend here!
3 defer this to someone more knowledgeable
4. I’d rather have them machine mine- my pref
5. This is a rats nest of personal opinions

I had my top end rebuilt and asked about having the bottom end done at the same time- was told they never go on these rigs. Mine went 20K later. If it was my truck - well I intend to keep and am playing the long game so I would get the whole thing rebuilt. I did this in Feb - ended up installing a new steering box and host of other goodies - truck has never driven as well!

 

[BILT4ME]

Only use Toyota gaskets.

Do NOT go to silicone on any hoses, especially the PHH. Use Gates green stripe.

 

[whaler]

You can never have too many land cruisers, but to your last points, its unlikely youll find a 97 triple locked, rust free and nice interior for 3-5k. The minor issues you have with the one you own are all fixable.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

gents,
just to confirm. after reading though various very long FAQ links - i am inclined to tell them to keep the coolant green. in which case i guess i just supply whatever amount i have here in my notes to fill up? or do i need to get them extra for some reason?
i mean i realize there are strong pros and cons here but i like the idea of being able to add coolant on the fly and it lugging a jug of red everywhere i go.
pretty much a solid call if rhat’s what i am inclined to do?

 

[BILT4ME]

gents,
just to confirm. after reading though various very long FAQ links - i am inclined to tell them to keep the coolant green. in which case i guess i just supply whatever amount i have here in my notes to fill up? or do i need to get them extra for some reason?
i mean i realize there are strong pros and cons here but i like the idea of being able to add coolant on the fly and it lugging a jug of red everywhere i go.
pretty much a solid call if rhat’s what i am inclined to do?

Yes. Green is CDan approved.

I would always provide 10% extra to allow for spillage, tipping over the bottle, or just general "it takes more-age".

Now, do your research on which BRAND of green to use. You will want to make sure to use only the MOST popular brand so that someone will be less likely, statistically, to mix and incorrect other brand of green into your current setup.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes. Green is CDan approved.

I would always provide 10% extra to allow for spillage, tipping over the bottle, or just general "it takes more-age".

Now, do your research on which BRAND of green to use. You will want to make sure to use only the MOST popular brand so that someone will be less likely, statistically, to mix and incorrect other brand of green into your current setup.

thanks. ah shoot. i just checked my OCD inspired note taking from the FAQ and don't see any recommendations for green coolant other than "ethyl glycol based coolant (do not use alcohol type)".

do i start a war asking where i go to find out what would be a good brand?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

hi all,
i'm hoping to lean on the gurus on the list a little more.
i'm going to bite the bullet and am planning on taking my 97 LX 450 (224K) in to the reputable shop here in town for a top end in the next month or so. i've been reading up to educate myself and i had some notion of working on it myself but i see that this is going to be more than i want to take on.
after tracking oil consumption for four or five months i can see it is burning too much oil. i'm not doing a great job recording this but if i had to give a specific number i would say over a quart in 500 miles. i had some hope this was an oil pump seal but i inspected this area with the mechanic and it is clear to me this was replaced before i got the vehicle so no leaking from the oil pump and this area is quite clean. long story short is the vehicle is burning a little oil on startup and my understanding is the valve seals are old so it is burning oil while driving but i don't see this.
as long as i am going in i want to be assured i am taking care of business so i don't mind spending a little extra money if it is advisable. i didn't talk to the top dog over at the shop yet about this repair so i am just assuming all of this is correct.
some numbers and some questions please?
i'd like to address any questions or needs with the big dog before i leave it so any help from the list about this would be GREAT. i've got a handful of mud threads over here i will pull out and chunk through again in the meantime.

numbers:
gasket set $330
antifreeze $50
oil/filter $65
labor $1980
total $2425
+ machining for the head (unknown cost)

questions/facts:
1. they seem to say they will replace the PHH while they are in there. it's supposed to have been replaced within the last 20K but if it is not a new silicone hose they seem to say they will replace it while they are in there. i gather this is fine obviously.
2. currently there is green coolant in the system. they will replaced with red. no reason not to i assume?
3. they indicated they will not test or replace the injectors. basically they said they never see them fail. they did say if i wanted to run them up to an injector shop they suppose i could but they see no reason to do this. alternatively i am considering putting in NEW injectors, and either running the old ones up to the injector shop and getting them fixed and selling those or just getting them tested and just selling the old ones. or just selling the old ones.
4. they indicated they keep a machined head on hand and usually just put that one in to save on turnaround time but they will also send mine out for repair and wait to get it back and put mine back in. i'm strongly inclined to have them use mine. thoughts?
5. anything else i should thing about doing as preventive maintenance while they are in there or any other thoughts?

reported service history which i have no reason to doubt at the moment:

service at ~220K
engine oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30)

service at ~200K
transfer case and differentials serviced (Royal Purple Gear lube)
all belts replaced
radiator hoses replaced (OEM)
coolant changed
oil pump seal replaced
front main seal replaced
distributor o-ring replaced
tune-up with spark plugs replaced
ignition wires replaced (OEM)
distributor cap and rotor replaced (OEM)
rotors and brake pads replaced
tires replaced
battery replaced
PHH replaced

other notes:
i'm in the vehicle for 7K. vehicle has a rather minty interior and the paint is good. i have a handful of miscellaneous and sundry repairs to get to - rear DS door lock actuator, door runners, speakers and a decent ding in the windshield but not much more to get to. and while i would have liked to have found a locked vehicle to put this money into the price of these is just going to go up. and if somehow i find someone sleep walking and selling a low mileage locked 97 for $3 - 5K i guess i could imagine grabbing it and doing this again after selling this one but for the time being i am happy with the vehicle (aside from the gas consumption of course). vehicle gets between 10 - 11 mph city.

THANKS as always for the help

Costly compared to what we pay at our local Toyota dealership.

 

[Tools R Us]

... any other thoughts?
...
THANKS as always for the help

Take it wheeling. When it's time for the next oil change, use 40wt.

 

[BILT4ME]

thanks. ah shoot. i just checked my OCD inspired note taking from the FAQ and don't see any recommendations for green coolant other than "ethyl glycol based coolant (do not use alcohol type)".

do i start a war asking where i go to find out what would be a good brand?

Just go see what Walmart carries. That will be the most available. Ethylene glycol for sure. Either 50/50 or straight and distilled water.

 

[Darb]

Don’t get rid of your OEM INJECTORS! Have them cleaned and flow tested at your local injector shop. I paid $20 per injector with 1 day turn around. I would replace head bolts and clean all carbon buildup from EGR passage in the upper intake. Basically you should replace every vacuum line under the intake. As well as all coolant bypass hoses.

 

[rc51kid]

Dont rplace the PHH.Replace evry coolantline with new OEM hoses if they are old or original . Just do the all at once. If the PHH is bad then they are all in the same condition.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Take it wheeling. When it's time for the next oil change, use 40wt.

hey man.
can i please follow up here? my note-taking is terrible on this oil usage. i have written it down but screwed it all up. but it DOES seem to be using a lot of oil. i'm tempted to top it off and try and go on a 500 mile trip just to confirm what it is burning. i would like to take a road trip here shortly.
are you suggesting to use 40W something or other to delay needing to do this work? because if you are i am thinking i should try it? that way i can hit the road and not worry about putting a quart in every 500 miles...? it would also give me some time to try to find a cheaper way to do this with some help.
i'm in texas and i am using Mobil 1 which is 5W30.
THANKS

 

[studawg]

hey man.
can i please follow up here? my note-taking is terrible on this oil usage. i have written it down but screwed it all up. but it DOES seem to be using a lot of oil. i'm tempted to top it off and try and go on a 500 mile trip just to confirm what it is burning. i would like to take a road trip here shortly.
are you suggesting to use 40W something or other to delay needing to do this work? because if you are i am thinking i should try it? that way i can hit the road and not worry about putting a quart in every 500 miles...? it would also give me some time to try to find a cheaper way to do this with some help.
i'm in texas and i am using Mobil 1 which is 5W30.
THANKS

Id definitely go to 10w-30, if not 10w-40. Im running 10w-40 high mileage oil in my 258k FZJ.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

If the weather is warmer where you are I would say go heavier than a 5w30. 15w60 penrite synthetic here year round and a happy 1fz.