Repair or Replace Rear Crossmember?

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Feb 21, 2008
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Tampa, FL
So my OEM rear crossmember is rusted through. Took the truck to the body shop for some touch-ups, and I had noticed the rear crossmember was rusting (just some surface rust). They started sanding down the paint, and somewhere in the process a large hole emerged (the rust ate through a large section where those 4 factory holes are).

Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to repair this.

The rear crossmemeber is available from Toyota new (I believe the part # is 5120960111). The problem is, from the parts diagram (see below) it looks like the part is welded on, since it's part of the rear frame.

One option is to cut all the welds, and replace the crossmember altogether, then re-weld it back on. But I'd have concerns over the integrity of the new welds.

The other option is to cut out the rusted area of the existing crossmember, buy the new crossmember, cut out the corresponding piece from it, then weld that back on.

Either way, I think there's welding that's gotta be done. Curious if anyone has any suggestions/advice as to the best way to proceed.

Thanks!
Diagram.jpg
 
Theres a few rear bumpers that replace the rear crossmember. Since yours is already partially removed the decision is made easy!

Check out the 4x4LABS rear bumper. It's awesome! Only catch is that the spare cannot live underneath in the original spot.
 
1) I'm not particularly a big fan of aftermarket rear bumpers

2) You're talking about going from a repair for a few hundred to well over a grand VERY quickly. Not the direction I'm looking to go.

Thanks tho!
 
4x4Labs has had a pile of crossmembers from bumper installs. I would contact Luke to see if they have any available, and for how much.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Steve, that's a good idea; thanks. Any ideas re: the best way to address my problem (complete replace vs repair)?
 
I would not replace that part of the cores member if just the center is rusted out. I would just patch it with a weld.
 
I would have happily given you mine had I not chopped it off for my bumper!
 
Cut it off.... Cut it off... I have my rear x member if you want to pay for shipping. I cut it off for my 4x4 labs bumper.
 
How heavy is the crossmember? I wouldn't mind paying to ship one over, if anyone has one that's in excellent condition (specifically the center area that's exposed with the 4 factory holes), without any damage or rust (not worried about the paint; it'll get repainted).
 
I can go ahead and be Mister Negativity. My guess is that you would want to figure out how to patch and repair it since its likely that will be needed on other sections of the frame as well. If the rear crossmember is rusted out despite it being a frame member (that is frequently washed compared to the more hidden sections) and is not directly exposed to road salt like the sections in wheel wells, then what condition is the rest of the frame in?
 
I can go ahead and be Mister Negativity. My guess is that you would want to figure out how to patch and repair it since its likely that will be needed on other sections of the frame as well. If the rear crossmember is rusted out despite it being a frame member (that is frequently washed compared to the more hidden sections) and is not directly exposed to road salt like the sections in wheel wells, then what condition is the rest of the frame in?
I'm taking that into account. The side bumper corners are coming off, and I'm gonna have a look at the entire crossmember.

To my knowledge, aside from the crossmember and the OEM running boards (which I already fixed), the truck has ZERO rust on it. I think the rust is from a scratch to the top right OEM hole in the crossmember which never was attended to, and continued to progress - hopefully only locally.

Obviously, if the rest of the crossmember is a disaster, I'll definitely be removing it and replacing it.
 
If it is just a small section then don't even worry about it. If I am not mistaken that rear crossmember is doubled up in thickness. Before I cut mine off for a 4x4 labs bumper I drilled a large enough hole for a large trailer connector with no worries. Do you have a photo?
 
Negative on the photo. I'm not local to the bodyshop (long story). But yea, it'll come down to how extensive the rust is.
 
So the rest of the crossmember looks great thankfully.

Looks like it's just the water that's been getting into the holes in the center section that have allowed and continued to allow for more rust in the center section.

Seeing that I already have a hitch installed, I don't see the need for those 4 holes. So we're just gonna cut out that rusted center section and replace it with a solid metal section without any holes. And I won't be towing with the rear crossmember (no holes), so I don't even have to worry about the welds around that center section as much. Plus no holes = no need to worry about future re-rusting :)

Thanks!
 
What is the purpose of the rear crossmember?

I had mine replaced after I was hit from behind by a Chevy 2500 with a ranch hand steel bumper. It was dented.
 
The rear crossmember is a structural part of the frame, kinda funny it acts as a no absorption function "bumper", but one would have to assume it contributes the torsional rigidity of the frame.

Perhaps Toyoda's boys thought that the 3/16" Steel would be enough to deal with the deformable front impact of the "other" car in the event of a rear-end collision. Of course they were not considering Chevy 2500s with non deformable ranch hand bumpers.
 

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