Removing track bar bind (1 Viewer)

[bjowett]

This is my soloution for eliminating the bind of the front track bar. A Toyota mini lower balljoint is used. A beefy piece that should be well up to the task and last the life of the truck as it has a zerk fitting to replenish the grease supply. The stock locating bolt can be seen next to the joint. A Picture of the slightly modified track bar will come next week.... why do I always run out of welding wire on Saturday morning. Comments and criticisms welcome.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Brian-That looks cool. Just curious how you plan to accomidate the taper of the ball joint instead of the straight shaft of the original stud? Very clean looking work.

 

[bjowett]

I have the tapered ball joint mount from the lower A-arm. Plans are to cut and weld it to the track bar in place of the lower bushing/eye, throw in a couple of redundant gussets and it will be good to go. Thanks for the kind words!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Brian, not so sure that is a good idea. You are going to get bumpsteer, also your axle is going to move side to side and that is going to affect your steering badly. Also not sure how strong the ball joint is in that direction. If you installed a threaded piece on the panhard, and leave the jamnut loose, the rod is free to rotate.

 

[cruiserdan]

Christo's solution is better. On the surface it seems strange but the rod length can't change (other than a couple degrees of rotation) as long as both ends are attached.

 

[bjowett]

Hey Christo, I do understand your concerns, and they are appreciated! I had the same concerns when designing this.... so I'll let you in on my thoughts.

The joint will allow rotation around an axis, which was designed to be around the center of the bar. No side to side movement can take place... it works just like a big rod end would if mounted in place of the bushing.

As for strength, the smallest section diameter of balljoint shaft is the same size as the previous locating bolt. Though I have no information pertaining to the strength grade of this part, I'm willing to bet it is substantially stronger than the locating bolt. Ball joints must endure serious radial and axial loads, the same type of loading that will occur here.

My previous trail rig used FJ62 relay rod ends to perform this same function (it was also 1500 lbs lighter). They are substantially smaller in every way when compared to the mini ball joint. The joints are HUGE, too bad we can't use em' for tie rod ends. Speaking of tie rods, I purchased your HD tie rods... very nice product! They go in next week.

 

[bjowett]

Christo's soloution is better in terms of ease of install by far, which means it is better for 95% of the folks out there ... I think the ball joint will prove stronger and longer lasting while performing the identical function. It will allow roughly 30 degrees of rotation/twist.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

[quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=14555;start=msg136531#msg136531 date=1081625659]
I'm willing to bet it is substantially stronger than the locating bolt. Ball joints must endure serious radial and axial loads, the same type of loading that will occur here.
[/quote]

bjowett I'm not sure I would take that bet. Don’t misunderstand me I want this to work for but I want you around to tell about.

The factory mount is a pocket the bolt is supported on two sides dramatically increasing shear strength.
There is a bushing on the end dampening hard jolts.
Even if the ball joint stud is stronger it can come out of the socket - not something you want to happen.

Cheers Phil

 

[sleeoffroad]

Brian, thought about it a little more and tried to picture the movements, yes, it seems like the rod will be able to move around it axis, but not really in the side to side way. So for movement it should do the trick.

My concern is just the joint poping apart. It would have to mean the panhard is janked forward or you have so much rotational force that it pops. Kinda like when you try and turn a tie-rod that is rusted and the balljoint pops out. Could happen but will it? Not sure.

Problem is to design a safety catch for that situation.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Also, are you still running the stock 2 link arm system in the rear? You might find that the rear arms will bind up before the panhard becomes a problem. If you really want the front to work you need to convert to a 3 link system.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/trails/chile_2004/dsc00282_jpg.htm
If you look at this picture of the Taco. It has a 80 front end that still uses a panhard rod just like the 80 (with adjuster in it) so it is really the same setup as an 80 (tierod was moved to the front), but it was converted to a 3 link. Improves articulation by a bunch (provided shocks allow free movement)

 

[bjowett]

I know it simply appears that this project was jumped into blindly, but much reading and research went into it. Trust me, I had concerns about the joint popping also. As mentioned above, a much smaller joint was used on my 4-Runner with great results - no breakage, no over loading damage... those joints were inspected often, and so will this joint on the Cruiser.

Yup, still running the radius arms. Plans are to moddify things as required. Thank you for the tips! I've looked at all the pictures on your page many times.

 

[bjowett]

Almost done.... just need to torque the upper bolt and bend the cotter pin.

Now on to the 50 other projects....

 

[moralien]

[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=14555;start=msg136940#msg136940 date=1081687888]
Also, are you still running the stock 2 link arm system in the rear? You might find that the rear arms will bind up before the panhard becomes a problem. If you really want the front to work you need to convert to a 3 link system.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/trails/chile_2004/dsc00282_jpg.htm
If you look at this picture of the Taco. It has a 80 front end that still uses a panhard rod just like the 80 (with adjuster in it) so it is really the same setup as an 80 (tierod was moved to the front), but it was converted to a 3 link. Improves articulation by a bunch (provided shocks allow free movement)

[/quote]


Yeah, but could you get away with that link setup, with the coilovers, on an 80? And providing that the rates were dialed in correctly and the geometry of your links were spot on. Would it be halfway streetable?
[Homer Simpson] DROOL

 

[sleeoffroad]

Nick, it should work, provided you have enough lift for the third link on top of the diff. Also, the arms should be longer for more travel. Joe's Taco is his daily driver. They have actually done another truck this is simmilary setup and it works really well. He did for some time run his tie-rod in the front (with modified 80 arms) but is moving it back again. The tie-rod was to low and got bent pretty easy. The reason for moving it forward was to enable them to make straight links for front bottom arms. They are now doing ones with a slight bend that actually goes over the tie-rod in the rear.

Another point is to have enough height to fit the coilovers. On the 80 with would take new upper mounts for the coilovers.

 

[moralien]

I like this solution. Keep the TR in rear and go thru it.

Sorry for the hijack but we all need dreams right.

 

[the shed guy]

The othe roption, if you have lots of lift, is mount the control arm over the diff, instead of under it, keeping it parallel, and steering arm in the correct spot.

Or you could go 4 link front keeping the top arms out of the way like this 80 chassised unit.

 

[bjowett]

Here is a picture of two ball studs removed form their joints.

Guess which one I am using to locate the track bar, and which one every 80 series owner depends on to keep the tierods connected every day?

 

[bjowett]

RISE FROM THE GRAVE.....

Well, a year later and 5k miles I'm R&Ring the front axle... this joint is as tight as the day I bolted it in. It's not like 5k is much, but it's obvious this joint is very understressed in this application (gloat).

 

[clownmidget]

That's great Brian...

BUT...

WHAT'S YOUR CASTER!!!!!

Don't make me go search and resurrect THAT thread

Mike R

 

[MoJ]

Brian - you'd make the Jowett Motor Company proud. Great stuff.