Removing the stering wheel lock (1 Viewer)

[itchy355]

Is anybody knowledgeable regarding this? I've had to have the starter switch removed while hunting for starting trouble and when I was replacing everything back (as the problem was somewhere further down the line and I've bypassed it by a new wire) I apparently fitted my starting switch camshaft 180 degrees off, so now the wheel is locked while started and unlocked while off.

Of course I can put things back so they're okay but since I'll be digging it back out, I figured I would gladly get rid of this steering wheel lock altogether once and for all.

I've seen there are some kind of sheared or maybe even tacked bolts holding the starting switch body to the steering column. How does one go about removing em? Drill?

Another option I've found somewhere around 100 series forums is replacing the shaft with a thicker one, only with machined tips so the lock always stays off. I'm not really into machining yet though, so ripping the lock out sounds a bit better.

Any clues?

 

[BILT4ME]

Is anybody knowledgeable regarding this? I've had to have the starter switch removed while hunting for starting trouble and when I was replacing everything back (as the problem was somewhere further down the line and I've bypassed it by a new wire) I apparently fitted my starting switch camshaft 180 degrees off, so now the wheel is locked while started and unlocked while off.

Of course I can put things back so they're okay but since I'll be digging it back out, I figured I would gladly get rid of this steering wheel lock altogether once and for all.

I've seen there are some kind of sheared or maybe even tacked bolts holding the starting switch body to the steering column. How does one go about removing em? Drill?

Another option I've found somewhere around 100 series forums is replacing the shaft with a thicker one, only with machined tips so the lock always stays off. I'm not really into machining yet though, so ripping the lock out sounds a bit better.

Any clues?

The steering wheel lock is part of the cam built into the ignition cylinder rod.

You can see the cams on the rod when you pull it out.

Check this thread for disassembly of that part.

My Ignition Broke!

I went to restart my 96 Land Cruiser (1FZ-FE) and the switch turned on, but it wouldn't start. The key flopped all the way to the right , but wouldn't return and there was no "spring" back from the start position. I noticed that my radio had power, my ABS light was on (because it's always on)...

forum.ih8mud.com

The second pic in post #3 shows the cams on the barrel rod that activates the steering wheel lock. If the cam is NOT pushing on it, it will lock. If it DOES push on it, it is unlocked. So, grinding it off will make it worse, not better.

 

[itchy355]

Oh OFC I know it's supposed to be pushed in, not left out; I'd meant grinding off the piece that goes into the steering shaft but for that I would have to remove the whole assembly; I've got through the mentioned threads, but haven't found how to do that. It's visible in this here thread, picture #3. I guess I would have to drill it out as somebody mentioned there.. that's why I wanted to know if there was another way to disable the lock, like mentioned in this writing, somewhere around figure 2 they mention there's some kind of a pin. But that's a 100, not an eighty..

 

[BILT4ME]

Oh OFC I know it's supposed to be pushed in, not left out; I'd meant grinding off the piece that goes into the steering shaft but for that I would have to remove the whole assembly; I've got through the mentioned threads, but haven't found how to do that. It's visible in this here thread, picture #3. I guess I would have to drill it out as somebody mentioned there.. that's why I wanted to know if there was another way to disable the lock, like mentioned in this writing, somewhere around figure 2 they mention there's some kind of a pin. But that's a 100, not an eighty..

To do what you're looking for you must remove the entire assembly from the column. That is not an easy task. You will have to Dremel or chisel the bolts holding the assembly to the column. When you have the dash apart,you will see how limited the access is.

I would recommend unbolting the entire column and work on it outside the truck. I bought a used column assembly from a local club member to get the parts I needed and it is shown in one of the pics in the thread I referenced.

You will need to remove that whole assembly to get to what you want.

Why do you want to remove the steering wheel lock?

What about the transmission lock as well?

 

[Dave 2000]

The bolts are called 'shear head' for a reason, I would take it apart and reassemble the cam in the correct position, if you must remove the assembly then as per @BILT4ME use a Dremel or chisel, but it can be a PITA to do.

Regards

Dave.

 

[itchy355]

Oh crap. Okay, that'll have to wait for a different time

As for the "why", I'd be glad if it was all gone, because it's already stuck on me once and it wasn't a good experience. Took me good 15 minutes of persuasion. Whole family waiting in the car until dad gets it going somehow..

But I guess I'll have a solid shaft machined so it'll keep the lock off.

Thanks all for the input.

 

[Pascoscout]

I am interested in removing the lock too. I want to install a push-to-start system along with new keyless entry. I'd though I could put the push button in place of the key cylinder but was curious about what it would take to delete the interlock since I won't be using the key anymore. For folks that have had this apart what's the best way to accomplish that?

 

[BILT4ME]

I am interested in removing the lock too. I want to install a push-to-start system along with new keyless entry. I'd though I could put the push button in place of the key cylinder but was curious about what it would take to delete the interlock since I won't be using the key anymore. For folks that have had this apart what's the best way to accomplish that?

There's also a solenoid on the bottom of the ignition barrel that is triggered by the NSS to unlock the ignition barrel to allow it to turn and allow the shifter to move and to allow the ignition to be turned off if still in gear.

 

[Pascoscout]

There's also a solenoid on the bottom of the ignition barrel that is triggered by the NSS to unlock the ignition barrel to allow it to turn and allow the shifter to move and to allow the ignition to be turned off if still in gear.

So the part that allows the key to move would not be an issue since I would not have the key anymore. Will have to look into what causes the unlock on the shifter mechanism so see if that can be removed, bypassed or have an alternate trigger. The kit I am looking at come with the ability to add multiple solenoid type trigger switches that only operate when the fob is in proximity. You typically use them to disconnect a fuel pump or starter relay but no reason they could not be adapted to trigger the shifter unlock too.

Sounds like this will be harder than I thought, probably not impossible though. As long as I can unlock the steering wheel and shifter I'll be good to go. Not concerned if they stay unlocked all the time, although it would be nice to lock the shifter so someone couldnt just roll my truck off. I figured I would have to go back to using a "club" steering wheel lock when parked in questionable areas.

 

[BILT4ME]

So the part that allows the key to move would not be an issue since I would not have the key anymore. Will have to look into what causes the unlock on the shifter mechanism so see if that can be removed, bypassed or have an alternate trigger. The kit I am looking at come with the ability to add multiple solenoid type trigger switches that only operate when the fob is in proximity. You typically use them to disconnect a fuel pump or starter relay but no reason they could not be adapted to trigger the shifter unlock too.

Sounds like this will be harder than I thought, probably not impossible though. As long as I can unlock the steering wheel and shifter I'll be good to go. Not concerned if they stay unlocked all the time, although it would be nice to lock the shifter so someone couldnt just roll my truck off. I figured I would have to go back to using a "club" steering wheel lock when parked in questionable areas.

The "Club" takes less than 30 seconds to defeat.

 

[ppc]

. Not concerned if they stay unlocked all the time, although it would be nice to lock the shifter so someone couldnt just roll my truck off.

You do realize that any 80 can be "rolled off" by just shifting the transfer case into neutral.

 

[Pascoscout]

You do realize that any 80 can be "rolled off" by just shifting the transfer case into neutral.

True enough.

 

[Pascoscout]

The "Club" takes less than 30 seconds to defeat.

Yes but it's still a deterrent to a thief who doesn't want to spend that time. In the end if someone really wants my car they are going to get it, just trying to limit that pool as much as possible.

 

[itchy355]

Just FYI; fixed the issue by rotating the shaft. The correct procedure is:
- situation - everything removed (lock cylinder, shaft, switch)
1; install shaft, rotate 180 degrees
2; install cylinder lock, set in ACC position; confirm wheel lock working. Set lock to OFF
3; install starter switch (set to OFF as well).

I found no pin on the rear side, so the only options to ,delete' the wheel lock would be to either grind it out or put the full bar instead of the cammed shaft.

Thanks for all the help. Off to another adventure) (my tail lights don't work.. DOH)