Removing the front inner door pannel

Joined
Jan 22, 2003
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Silicon Valley
Hi,

2 days ago I heard a loud bang while waiting at the intersection with all the windows fully up and AC running and thought that some one threw a rock at the window. But much later my driver window went crooked when going up and got stuck and went to anti-jam mode. I know the motor is still working but something has broken inside. I am about the remove the inner panel to figure what went wrong. Can someone please share some tips regarding removing this pannel?

Thanks in advance.

/td
 

mthomp6

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Jul 11, 2003
Messages
125
hey td-

It is pretty easy. You need to remove the window switch panel (disconnect harness) to get to a screw. Then remove a screw and trim piece around the door handle (see thread below). There are two covered (by plastic caps) screws below the tweeter. There are a couple of plastic fasteners on the opening end of the panel - push in the center of the fastener, then pull out the whole thing. Other screws are on the bottom. Pop out the tweeter trim piece. Once everything is loose, disconnect the courtesy light harness and lift the panel up out of the window channel.

Check out: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=16059

Also: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=46758
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2005
Messages
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mthomp6 said:
hey td-

It is pretty easy. You need to remove the window switch panel (disconnect harness) to get to a screw. Then remove a screw and trim piece around the door handle (see thread below). There are two covered (by plastic caps) screws below the tweeter. There are a couple of plastic fasteners on the opening end of the panel - push in the center of the fastener, then pull out the whole thing. Other screws are on the bottom. Pop out the tweeter trim piece. Once everything is loose, disconnect the courtesy light harness and lift the panel up out of the window channel.

Check out: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=16059

Also: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=46758
Zox whats up I would like to put a nice system into my 98 LC what is that MDF thing you had on the pic? and what wattage 3" speakers should i get? and can i do the same with the sub in the back left hand side. or should i replace the sub and get a bass tube? and how can i get the cover off on the sub woofer
 
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
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Oh no...

I finally figured what happened: the little plastic tab that supported the glass broke after 7 years, easy fix enough so I went to Stevens Creek Toyota to get another piece hopefull for couple bucks...The part guy told me, yeah, the piece is available but it only comes with the a new window glass as a package, price of the glass and the plastic piece: $176 bucks with TLCA discounts (regular price for the unfortunate soul is $270).

I am going to hit the junkyard to see if this is a generic part that I can pull from other Toyota car/truck. One of the part guys told it also happened someone else who ended up a brand new glass.

/td
 
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Joined
May 8, 2004
Messages
950
The plastic is designed to break, as opposed to the glass. My guess is you need a window regulator assmbly....which is not just a couple of bucks. Hope I'm wrong.

Scott
 
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Raleigh, NC
Just FYI, there are inexpensive parts on these vehicles that are designed to fail.

I just had a door opening lever fail. Couldn't open the door from the outside on my ES. There is a part that takes the load on the lever which fails at $2.75. Unfortunately. for me I didn't know. $80 in labor for a 2 minute change out... rather that than $800 for something that was "really" important that broke... probably, in the long run, good design engineering...
 
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mscott said:
Alright, bro. No offense, but you do mean "glass" right?
Thanks for correction!

I looked at the part diagram at the dealer, it shows the little piece seperately but there's no part number for it. I thought about that part being designed as a weak link to be broken in case of some else fail, but then it should be available seperately instead buying a whole new glass once the other problem is corrected if there's such problem. What a waste to throw away a perfect glass to just to get a piece of plastic. Image that you have to buy a whole fuse panel just because one fuse is short because Toyota doesn't sell a single fuse.

/td
 
Joined
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Messages
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mscott said:
Just FYI, there are inexpensive parts on these vehicles that are designed to fail.

I just had a door opening lever fail. Couldn't open the door from the outside on my ES. There is a part that takes the load on the lever which fails at $2.75. Unfortunately. for me I didn't know. $80 in labor for a 2 minute change out... rather that than $800 for something that was "really" important that broke... probably, in the long run, good design engineering...
Yes, you were lucky that lever is available seperately at $2.75. Image you have to buy the whole door openning assembly just to get that lever at $150? That is what I am facing. I beleive in Toyota quality that's why all my trucks are Toyota made. This is only thing that broke under mornal use after 110,000 miles. My friends got lots more craps from their Chevy/Ford/Jeep trucks.

/td
 
Joined
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Agreed. That does suck, and doesn't make any sense to boot. Are you sure you have a good parts guy to help you? Though it sounds like you do...
 
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mscott said:
Agreed. That does suck, and doesn't make any sense to boot. Are you sure you have a good parts guy to help you? Though it sounds like you do...
Yes, I did also check at 2 Toyota dealers just to make sure...And I found the little part at the junkyard out of a late model Toyota Corolla, it's almost identical, with just a little filling it should ok, they let me have them for free...And met another cruiser head with a huge spring-over FJ60 at the parking lot, that truck can crawl at 170:1 with a Marlin crawler box.

/td
 
Joined
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Fixed, my total cost: 2 bucks to get in the junkyard, part was free...Dealer estimate: $350.00.

Thanks everyone !!!

/td
 
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