Removing rear cover for oil leak, anything else "while you're in there"? (1 Viewer)

[JimSoCal]

Been monitoring a small oil leak for a while from the rear. My guess is the o'ring right above the rear main seal, but regardless, the rear cover will need to come off.

Engine has 345k miles, and I am debating on if I should do this job as an engine out, to reseal the rear cover by the book (by removing the oil pan), or just pull the transmission and throw a bit of FIPG at the corners and pray.

If I end up doing an engine out on it, is there anything else I should do "while I am in there"? I have recently done quite a bit of work baselining the truck. Just about every rubber hose has been replaced, heater tees, valve cover gaskets, timing belt & water pump, steering rack & power steering hoses.

I think there is also another identical o'ring in the front cover that I will also look to replace.

Anything else anyone can think of? Or thoughts on doing the job with just pulling the transmission vs engine out?

Thanks.

 

[poetdereves]

I don’t have the answer for you, but I’m wondering the same thing. Im replacing my rear main seal next week and looking to do the same kind of stuff.

 

[dealmaker]

Following too. I've got a small leak and wondering about RMS too, and that other O-ring. Was it behind the "oil plate"? Was awhile ago that I saw that RMS thread. My oil check level always shows full so I've been putting that expen$e off as long as possible. This repair makes me nervous, wanting to escalate to a known and reputable LC mechanic in greater los angeles area who's done this a lot, tho I've been happy with my current guy.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’ve not done the job, but I would consider dropping the trans and t-case instead, then drop the oil pan and do what you need to do. There’s enough room between the oil pan and front diff that once the pan is unbolted and sitting on top of the diff you should have space to tilt the pan down and back to remove the RMS retainer.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Many have done the engine in and pulled the transmission to work on the rear main. Having pulled a 100 series engine and trans as a unit, its a big task but not too bad assuming you have the necessary tools and patience for it. If you pull the engine it is a good time to get all the other rubber bits replaced and a great time to do a timing belt. With a timing belt and since you will be pulling the two oil pans you can replace the o-ring on the oil pump and the cam/crank seals.

 

[Seth7843]

I'm in the same boat except I'm leaking oil from the front of the engine as well. I'm leaning towards pulling just the engine and leaving the transmission in place. I plan to do the oil pump seal, rear main seal, transmission input seal, motor mounts. I'm also thinking about doing Doug Thorley headers and OEM exhaust manifold gaskets, and rebuilding starter/alternator. I just did timing belt and everything associated with that.

 

[JimSoCal]

I'm in the same boat except I'm leaking oil from the front of the engine as well. I'm leaning towards pulling just the engine and leaving the transmission in place. I plan to do the oil pump seal, rear main seal, transmission input seal, motor mounts. I'm also thinking about doing Doug Thorley headers and OEM exhaust manifold gaskets, and rebuilding starter/alternator. I just did timing belt and everything associated with that.

One thing to double check for the front leak is the timing belt tensioner bolt. It goes through the oil pump cover, so it needs sealant on the threads of the bolt, which is often overlooked.

I am certainly leaning towards pulling the engine to do the work, as trying to get the oil pan resealed with FIPG with the engine upright seems like a huge pain, and pulling the engine doesn't seem too bad, once the radiator is out of the way.

 

[fdmsiv]

Same boat here with rear engine oil leak. I have the TB/WP service coming up in about 5k miles and would also like to:
Replace exhaust hardware and get some DH headers
Replace steering rack
Replace engine mounts
Replace oil cooler gaskets/orings

Anyone have thoughts on shop hours required to pull and replace engine?

 

[jerryb]

some part numbers to ponder