Removing Marlin HD inner Axle Seals. (1 Viewer)

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BGarcia88FJ62

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Having a hell of a time removing these front axle seals. Anyone have any pointers or recommend a seal puller to get them out. My typical methods haven't worked, Thanks!
✌️ :beer:
 
I was trying to find a picture of it but can’t seem to locate it. I have an old seal puller from Matco. Probably 50’s-60’s. You could try making one by bending the end of as screwdriver into hook so you can yank on the backside of the seals.

You could get a long piece of pvc and knock them out from the other side.

And probably the least ghetto way would be to rent a slide hammer and seal puller from oreilly, advance, etc...

When I reinstall my seals I put a bit if gear oil safe rtv around the mating surface just to be sure I seal up any surface I may have nicked when pulling the old ones.
 
Am I missing something? marlin seals aren't much different that toyota and front axle seals ride on the outer edge of the axle housing. Once the birf is out and the knuckle is off, you can pry them out with a large flathead screwdriver, small prybar or seal puller. I would think a slide hammer/bearing remover would be over kill.

You are going into the hole and prying on the inside of the seal and putting the prybar or seal puller on the outside edge of the axle on the opposite side and prying right?
 
I've used the old school seal puller on the OEM seals without issue but it's not working on the Marlin seals.
I've also tried a hook and a slide hammer on the backside of the seal with no success really.
All I've managed to do is tear the rubber to pieces but the seal itself hasn't budged.
I'll just keep plugging away at it. Thanks.
:beer: ✌️
 
I removed my first pair of marlin seals tonight. Couldn't get the typical seal puller like Borrego posted to do anything but rip through the rubber (though i pulled a few stock seals with it). Evidently the Marlin uses a wire ring in the seal where the stock style uses a coil spring ring, and the Marlin ring just pulls free of the rubber. Also, the metal body of the stock seal has a lip formed inward at the outboard edge (which the seal puller will catch), where the Marlin seal had the metal lip formed outward (nothing of the metal body to catch with puller).

Ended up using a large flat head to twist/lift up a portion of the outside lip (a little bit in one spot, then a little bit next to it, walking along...). Then I used a pry bar through the bottom trunion bearing hole to work the seal back out of its recess.

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Side by side comparison of the two styles. I think my Marlins did 12 years or so with a fair bit of 4wd on trail and on winter roads with no sign of leaking.
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An "L" type puller works well (that's how I did it)... Catch the inner lip of the seal then whack the puller. Harbor Freight used to sell a cheap knockoff, but I don't see it anymore.

Alternatively, if you have a bearing puller slide hammer with collets, that would probably work well, also.

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An "L" type puller works well (that's how I did it)... Catch the inner lip of the seal then whack the puller. Harbor Freight used to sell a cheap knockoff, but I don't see it anymore.

Alternatively, if you have a bearing puller slide hammer with collets, that would probably work well, also.

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This is what I was trying to describe. I have an old one from matco from the 50’s or 60’s. It is a wonderful tool. I pulled my pilot bearing with it in about three blows. It almost always does the job.
 
Yes. Mayhew 7019 (above) works for everything, even the PITA pilot bearing. The one I have has the stiking anvil angled out so you can angle the puller but still have the hammer strike pull straight back. I've used the hell out of the thing and is one of the best $30 tools I've ever bought.

I'll just say this too: another great and inexpensive tool I bought a few months ago. The collets work great for stuff like this. This kit is $80 on Amz. 50 bux here.


 
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