Removing head bolts to install air cleaner..

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May 7, 2007
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Location
Tasmania, Australia
Hi All,
I have a new air cleaner assembly that has a bracket that goes under 2 head bolts.. Is it ok to remove the bolts to install the air cleaner, or should I un-torque all the head bolts in the proper sequence, install, then retorque?
 
Are you kidding.....? Do you have a picture? I can't imagine but I could be wrong. That would mean that the bracket would somehow stick thru your valve cover?

Mine is a 77. Are you talking about these two bolt holes? If so they are just there to hold the air cleaner assembly, nothing else.

DSCF0134.JPG

Copenhagen1
DSCF0134.JPG
 
I've removed the two head bolts a couple of times over the years to put on the air cleaner. Never had a problem doing it that way, couldn't say if it's right or wrong...

Jerry D.
 
I've removed the two head bolts a couple of times over the years to put on the air cleaner. Never had a problem doing it that way, couldn't say if it's right or wrong...

Jerry D.

Me too. A little coolant will leak out:meh:



Ed
 
done it many times with no problems on many different years.good luck
 
Are you kidding.....? Do you have a picture? I can't imagine but I could be wrong. That would mean that the bracket would somehow stick thru your valve cover?

Mine is a 77. Are you talking about these two bolt holes? If so they are just there to hold the air cleaner assembly, nothing else.

View attachment 313386

Copenhagen1

Pre 1975 1F engines have a different air cleaner assembly than the post 1975 2F engines. On the earlier engines the air cleaner has a bracket that bolts under the first two head bolts on the left side of the engine. Then a much larger and deeper air cleaner assembly bolts to this bracket and runs back to the carb, rather than on top and over the valve cover like a 2F. The air cleaner element is actually the same one used on the 62 and 80 series cruisers.

Often times the bracket has been removed when people put a holley or weber on, and when changing back you are faced with a challenge of how to get the bracket back on without harm to the head gasket.

Poor design in some ways, however, it allowed a person to take the valve cover off a 1F, while it was running without taking anything else loose to perform valve adjustments, as is recommended in the early manuals. When you run an engine without the aircleaner, it changes idle speed slightly, and effects your tuning. In reality it is next to impossible to adjust the valves with the engine running.

To add, the two bolt holes you pictured were actually used to hold the coil on early F engines. Later on they are used for the 2F aircleaner assembly.
 
Me too. A little coolant will leak out:meh:
Install/remove the head bolt mounted accesory brackets (AC compressor, PS pump, air cleaner) with the engine cold. Remove the radiator cap to make sure there is no pressure/vacuum in the cooling system.

It shouldn't seep any coolant if the above procedure is followed.
OTOH, a little seepage is not a crisis.
 
Pre 1975 1F engines have a different air cleaner assembly than the post 1975 2F engines. On the earlier engines the air cleaner has a bracket that bolts under the first two head bolts on the left side of the engine. Then a much larger and deeper air cleaner assembly bolts to this bracket and runs back to the carb, rather than on top and over the valve cover like a 2F. The air cleaner element is actually the same one used on the 62 and 80 series cruisers.

Often times the bracket has been removed when people put a holley or weber on, and when changing back you are faced with a challenge of how to get the bracket back on without harm to the head gasket.

Poor design in some ways, however, it allowed a person to take the valve cover off a 1F, while it was running without taking anything else loose to perform valve adjustments, as is recommended in the early manuals. When you run an engine without the aircleaner, it changes idle speed slightly, and effects your tuning. In reality it is next to impossible to adjust the valves with the engine running.

To add, the two bolt holes you pictured were actually used to hold the coil on early F engines. Later on they are used for the 2F aircleaner assembly.

I learn something new every time I am on here.

This is what he's talking about...

Thanks for the visual. I understand now.

vk7ybi ... The trucks listed in your signature are 78 and newer. I apologize for the incorrect info. I just couldn't imagine removing head bolts for an air cleaner.

Abe Lincoln said " It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt."
I may change the quote in my signature to that.

Copenhagen1
 
I didn't notice all his rigs were that new. To further your education, there were alternate 2F aircleaner assemblies in other markets that mounted like the 1F assemblies did. Perhaps he has sourced one of those.
 
Well he is from Australia ! not that thats a bad thing and they do get alot of various types of set up's we dont. Motors could have been swapped , I just picked up a 1970 that had a 63 motor so anything is possiable
 
coolerman is right when i put a 2f in my 70 i used all the 70 parts on the 2f including that style air filter unit and it all bolted on .good luck
 
Thanks all..

My soft top 78 has the air cleaner above the rocker cover, but all the intake parts are on the 78 hard top at the momet.. I did this to repair a PO butchered weber install, while the soft tops engine was being replaced.. Now the soft top has a new engine, the original intake will go back onto the soft top, as its setup for LPG..

I bought a complete original intake system from an 84 model 40 to go back onto the hard top and the air cleaner supplied has the head bolt bracket.. Hence the question.

I'll just drain the coolant thats in there at the moment, its only water..
 

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