Removing Fiberglass Cap (1 Viewer)

[ksaun]

Hi all,

I'm trying to separate my fiberglass cap from the windowed side panels on my hard top. I've removed all the bolts to my knowledge, but a silicone RTV-esc gasket remains between the two parts. It's incredibly difficult to separate and I've spent some time with a sawzall, crowbar, and spatula trying to remove the cap.

Does anyone have any tips for making this gasket removal easier? Thanks.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Hm...if it's RTV'esque, someone didn't do you any favors in the past. Generally it should just be a wide rubber gasket with a beaded outer lip. There are some chemicals that help dissolve RTV, depending on if you're planning subsequent paintwork or not.

As far as fasteners, should be 10x on each side, and then a run across the rear. Did the rear crossbar come out any easier?

 

[Green Bean]

Hi all,

I'm trying to separate my fiberglass cap from the windowed side panels on my hard top. I've removed all the bolts to my knowledge, but a silicone RTV-esc gasket remains between the two parts. It's incredibly difficult to separate and I've spent some time with a sawzall, crowbar, and spatula trying to remove the cap.

Does anyone have any tips for making this gasket removal easier? Thanks.

I realize that this is probably a very stupid question, but did you remove the bolts over the doors? You have to remove a trim piece on the header to expose three bolts on each side. At least that is the way it is on our 1970. Also there are some peculiar bolts above the rear hatch door.

 

[ksaun]

I realize that this is probably a very stupid question, but did you remove the bolts over the doors? You have to remove a trim piece on the header to expose three bolts on each side. At least that is the way it is on our 1970. Also there are some peculiar bolts above the rear hatch door.

Hmm, do not doubt my stupidity. Hahaha.

I'm guessing this is the piece you're talking about... I had the impression that the white piece above where the door would be, would travel with the cap itself once the gasket was removed.

I might be over compilating this.

 

[zerotreedelta]

It might be a bit of both. I want to say I did what you're doing though - I split the side panels off and dealt with that smaller front rail later once the top was being worked on.

Based on the black all over, does look like there is quite a bit of non-standard sealant action going on back there...

 

[Skreddy]

The black looks like some kind of seam sealer and doesn’t look like it’s in the actual top to sides gap. Carefully prying up is the best way, that gasket seal could be really stuck. Those front door headers will come off with the top since it looks like you have the bolts at A and B pillar removed.
Half and half Twisted Tea in 12 packs?! In WA we can only find the normal flavor in 12’s, ID has it all!

 

[ksaun]

Based on the black all over, does look like there is quite a bit of non-standard sealant action going on back there...

You can say that again.

Carefully prying up is the best way, that gasket seal could be really stuck. Those front door headers will come off with the top since it looks like you have the bolts at A and B pillar removed.

Sounds good to me. I scrounged around in my garage for a pry bar thin enough to get between the sides and the top. I think you're right honestly, i think the headers will go with the top.

Half and half Twisted Tea in 12 packs?! In WA we can only find the normal flavor in 12’s, ID has it all!

Guess that's why everyone's moving here, huh!

Thanks all! Will update.

 

[ksaun]

OOF. Got it off with two crowbars and some elbow grease.

This puppy was on there. I'm getting the whole rig blasted here in a week, I wouldn't have gone to the trouble otherwise. Ended up pretty much costing me the rain gutter, one side of it is pretty mangled.

The sealant between the sides and the fiberglass was so strong, it ended up separating the cap from the gutter along the passenger side. (Pulled the rivet through the hole, or destroyed the hole in the cap)

Does anyone have any recommendations on;

• How to repair the cap so new rivets can be installed?
  • If not, do I need a new cap?
• New rain gutter? Have seen a couple kits floating around.

Thanks

 

[zerotreedelta]

Yeah...they didn't do you any favors there.

Some like to use rivet washers on reinstall of the gutter to the cap - depending on how mangled (or not) the cap is, that might be all you need. Worst case, a small bit of kitty hair would do the deed methinks. I used a bit of sealant between the gutter and cap, then self-leveling sealer on top in the gutter. One or two ugly rivets shouldn't hurt you too much methinks.

The gutter itself is pretty simple shaping...should be able to just bang it back out and/or seam in a patch I'd imagine, but not sure just how bad it is. I just did mine in my build thread, and the 40-Channel on YT had some good info on it as well about gutter repair and riveting.

 

[ksaun]

Yeah...they didn't do you any favors there.

Some like to use rivet washers on reinstall of the gutter to the cap - depending on how mangled (or not) the cap is, that might be all you need. Worst case, a small bit of kitty hair would do the deed methinks. I used a bit of sealant between the gutter and cap, then self-leveling sealer on top in the gutter. One or two ugly rivets shouldn't hurt you too much methinks.

The gutter itself is pretty simple shaping...should be able to just bang it back out and/or seam in a patch I'd imagine, but not sure just how bad it is. I just did mine in my build thread, and the 40-Channel on YT had some good info on it as well about gutter repair and riveting.

Sounds good to me. I wasn't familiar with the process of fiberglass repair but doesn't seem too bad.

I believe I've seen that video on the 40 channel! He had that section about that special rivet tool he made that will make rivets without holes. I'll probably try that out and go for a stock looking repair.

Will probably try to source a new or refab gasket for the top instead of screwing over the next owner with some horrible sealant.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I had to drill out 70 rivets when I took mine apart a long time ago. My feeling the best source
for original restore parts would be SOR Spectre Off-road. They seem to be best equipped to
get the little and complete parts.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Indeed - I counted 75 on mine if I recall. Luckily the hardtop stuff (aside from the rubber gasket) is pretty commodity hardware. I picked up a box of 250 rivets for all of $6 on McMaster. I think I got the gasket from CityRacer.

I'm shipping off my leftovers to @Slapshot , he's was about ready to do his...there **might** even be enough leftover-leftovers for yours to be honest. 75*3 is 225, but I burned a few getting the pliers made and setup.

 

[Skreddy]

I used the city racer gasket and was pleased. I got my rivets from McMaster-carr and made my own rivet tool out of bolt cutters.

 

[ksaun]

there **might** even be enough leftover-leftovers for yours to be honest.

That would be sweet! I'll be in no time crunch to get this top on. Let me know!