Removing 3B superglow..... Can I remove it all and go Wilson? (1 Viewer)

[slowandsteady BJ]

There are so many glow threads but I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question.

Can I remove all the super glow and go wilson sw. with higher voltage glow plugs?
Is the super glow tied into the edic operation? (or any other system)

I'd really like to simplify everything and I'm not a fan of leaving redundant wiring in the truck.

Thanks
Cam

 

[crushers]

ditch the SG and go full manual.
make sure you do the glow test in the vice before installing the system so you know how long to glow for.

 

[BEE-JAY42]

I'd advise against it. The superglow system isn't just for starting, it remains running while the engine is cold to keep the engine smooth at idle. Considering you live in Canada you'd be unwise to remove this piece of "redundant" wiring.

 

[crushers]

you can refire the manual glow while running, no issues there.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

I'd advise against it. The superglow system isn't just for starting, it remains running while the engine is cold to keep the engine smooth at idle. Considering you live in Canada you'd be unwise to remove this piece of "redundant" wiring.

Its not redundant yet. Hence the question.

you can refire the manual glow while running, no issues there.

Yes. Thats what I'm thinking. At the moment the superglow is triggered by a momentary switch installed by PO. This would have been done due to a failure in the problem prone timer at a guess. The way it is works but not very well compared to the results people seem to be getting by going with a hotter (10.5V plug) and a solenoid + wilson sw.

I like the idea of simplifying things especially in a Land Cruiser.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

We ditched the superglow and replaced it with 10.5V wilson switch GPs.

No issues, other than you probably have to leave the plug in the intake manifold, unless you can find something else to plug the hole.

I often glow the plugs a touch after it starts, to help it smooth out for a couple seconds...

Dan

 

[Kynot62]

This might help. I ditched the entire superglow and edic system, replaced with a solenoid for the 10.5V plugs and used a cable shutdown. Just remember that by loosing the edic you also lose the automatic oil pressure shutdown. But this was worth it for me to lose my problem electronics and I just like things manual besides...

This write up explains what I did for my rig.

http://thewagonway.com/?p=2556

Tony

 

[hj 60]

Just fix what is broken, thats simple. If you follow the fsm you will know what is wrong within an hour I think.
Superglow makes the car start whoever is driving it: no little notes and manuals if somebody lends it.

Also that way you get 25 years/250k out of your plugs.
If you forget to switch of the manual switch you will damage the plugs.

 

[crushers]

hence momentary switch ...
25 years out of one set of pugs? if you never use it maybe

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Just remember that by loosing the edic you also lose the automatic oil pressure shutdown. But this was worth it for me to lose my problem electronics and I just like things manual besides...

Tony

There's a fix for that:

http://www.enginewatchdog.com/tm6.html

I've been using this (the TM3 model) on my rig for 4 years now without any issues.

 

[seapotato]

There are so many glow threads but I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question.

Can I remove all the super glow and go wilson sw. with higher voltage glow plugs?
Is the super glow tied into the edic operation? (or any other system)

I'd really like to simplify everything and I'm not a fan of leaving redundant wiring in the truck.

Thanks
Cam

Sure, that's the way that 85 rustbucket I had was rigged up, and it's the way all the old bj40's and 42's were from factory.

Hold the key backwards before starting, and if it runs like s***, hold switch on the dash for a few more seconds.

Just need a relay and a decent momentary switch.

You can call the switch Wilson if you want, but it's just a switch.


most marine diesels are set up this way, certainly the older ones anyways.

All manual, with buzzers and lights for low oil pressure warning, and pull cable shut off.

 

[keving]

This might help. I ditched the entire superglow and edic system, replaced with a solenoid for the 10.5V plugs and used a cable shutdown. Just remember that by loosing the edic you also lose the automatic oil pressure shutdown. But this was worth it for me to lose my problem electronics and I just like things manual besides...

This write up explains what I did for my rig.

http://thewagonway.com/?p=2556

Tony

This is EXACTLY what I did. And my aftermarket HD solenoid is maounted on the drivers side inner fender well. Heavy gauge hot wire coming from battery to one side of the solenoid, and the glow plug bus bar is wired to the other side of the solenoid. The "wilson switch" triggers the solenoid. Very very simple and reliable. Never had and issue with it. and I do have to afterglow now that its colder. The manual setup is also nice for hot starts when you don't need any glow time, just turn the key and start.

I also have the manual shutdown cable, which also acts as an anti-theft device as I imobilize it when I leave the vehicle if I so desire.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I worked my way through some diagnostic work and found I had:
-The momentary switch was triggering the first stage of the superglow (measured 9.3V at the busbar)
-2nd stage of the super glow was still working as normal
-Previous owner had installed 10.4V glow plugs.

This explains why my truck started well but required a long period of glowing. Heck I bet the 2nd stage barley got those plugs warm at all. The glow plugs all checked out and looked great.... almost new. Most likely because they never worked very hard with such low voltage going to them.

I pulled the superglow out, installed a new solenoid, reused the momentary that was there in the first place. Kept the 10.4V NGK glow plugs, wired it all up nicely and voila. Cut the glow time by 75% and it starts right up. If she sputters a bit a quick after glow and the B smooths right out.

Perfect. Simple. Manual. Just the way I like a Cruiser.

 

[rustybucket]

I would put in a wilson switch in addition to a super glow. One fails, you have a backup. My glow timmer is shot. I put in a wilson switch but not sure if I placed it on the right wire. I have to wait 8-10 seconds before starting the truck.

 

[crushers]

wire directly to the bus bar. once the super glow starts to act up, ditch it.
make sure you test the glow plugs for duration. too long and you burn them out quickly. too short and well you know what happens.
to test:
plave glow plug in vice clamping GENTLY to where the wrench goes on.
put negative from battery to bolt on vice mount.
touch positive to threaded tip (on the end, not on the threaded side)
start counting immediately
hold till bright red or orange. DO NOT hold too long.
i run 6 volt in my 12 V engines and 10V in my 24V engines. usually 4 to 6 secs is max.

now test for reglow:
reglow means the engine is running rough (cold day)
once you have tested above then count to 5 and reglow. note, the glow plug is now warm so you don't need to hold as long
test and record.

then try after 10 seconds. record.

i have a tape printer so i put this info on the tape and stick it next to the manual glow switch.

i love the super glow when it works. sadly a number of the parts for the old B and H engines are obsolete, especially the 24V system.