Remove & Replace Alternator (1 Viewer)

[Ohiolc100]

So theres a lot of different options on removing the alternator on this forum. Last time I did this I pulled it out the bottom and tbh it was a pain in the ass IMO. Went to tackle it again today, I was thinking about pulling it out the wheel well but that looked like a similarly small hole as taking it out the bottom, and I thought about taking the radiator out but honestly, aint nobody got time for that. So heres what i did. Disconnect the batter first of course.

1. take off air intake hose and air filter box.
2. take off radiator overflow.
3. remove serpentine belt.
4 remove return hose from power steering reservoir, move it out of the way in front of the fan.
5. I unbolted the entire PS reservoir because i couldnt get the outlet hose off, but you could just remove the hose. I plugged the holes in the PS reservoir with clean shop towels.
6. Remove PS pump and you can move it up and out of the way where the air filter box used to be.
7. You now have full access to the alternator. Remove nut on top for ground wire, Nut in front and bolt on bottom to remove it from the stud, then unclip the connector.

Reverse to put it back together.

 

[gatormark91]

Too much effort. Take off the air cleaner. Remove the serp belt. Unbolt the PS pump, move it aside. Undo the alt bolts, take off the alt downward, remove from below. I found it easier to do with the radiator hose off, some folks have done it with hose in place. Don't remove radiator overflow, don't remove PS reservoir, don't undo PS hoses.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Yea I've done it that way. Too much fumbling, squeezing fighting all while your on ur back under the truck. Then it's like giving birth in reverse getting it back in. The only extra things you have to take off going from the top is the ps pump hoses/ reservoir, air filter box(3bolts), and remove radiator overflow(2 bolts). On the flip side you don't have any of the the jack/jack stand set up, you don't have to mess with the skid plate, and you don't have to mess with taking radiator hoses off. This was by far easier for me, YMMV.

 

[Pyrenees]

giving birth in reverse

I won't lie, I laughed. Good description.

 

[abuck99]

I replaced my alternator yesterday and here's my feedback on the posted removal processes. Removal through the top is the easiest on my 05.

First attempt was through the bottom. I tried to remove through the bottom but the transmission return lines and soft hoses are in the way and there's not enough room to wiggle the alt. through with out putting more stress than I care to on the trans return hard lines and hoses, or damaging the fan shroud. I didn't want to risk braking a line fitting or cutting a hose. I'm not doubting others who have made this method work, but there's not enough detail on the part where they actually remove the alt. between the shroud and trans lines: like how was the alternator oriented when you pulled from the bottom, did you bend push lines out of the way, etc. Maybe there is some difference in the fan shroud size, trans hard line lengths, or size of 100A alternator vs 130A between older & newer model years. I even drained rad & pulled the radiator hose and still not enough room to wiggle it out on my truck.

So I went to the topside, pushed the PS pump back out of the way towards the firewall, ( radiator was already drained and hose removed) removed the radiator hose clip/holder on the shroud and that made enough space to pull the alt through the top side with out much effort. No removal of PS reservoir or disconnecting PS hoses, no removal of overflow tank required. Draining the radiator and removing the hose is necessary with this method. Install was as easy as it came out.

My work flow

• Battery disconnected
• Air filter box, sound damper removed and vacuum hoses removed
• Accessory belt removed
• Drain radiator into a clean bucket to make sure no contaminates or dirt get into your coolant and cover it.
• Remove radiator return hose and hose clip from fan shroud
• Unmount power steering pump (14mm socket) and hang to the side (try a length of coat hangar to hook it up to keep tension off hoses as it hangs)
• Unbolt alternator (14mm socket & 12mm socket)- The bottom bolt has given some fits-(breakage). I treated mine with Aero-Kroil a week before and it came right out.
• Remove the wire holder/bracket from bottom of alt. (10mm socket)
• Remove generator connecting wire from stud (10mm socket) ( plastic cap covering the nut is snap fit-gently pry off with a tool)
• Inch the generator forward and remove the generator plug connector- be gentle use some finesse how you remove-these can be brittle and break
• Now that the alternator is disconnected from everything, pull it off the studs and work it around the shroud an up through the top.

Install: Reverse order.

Its also a good time to clean all frame ground connectors & other connections that you can easily get to including clean battery posts, clean battery terminals.

Refill radiator and burp cooling system. While engine is running check running voltage at battery terminals to make sure you got everything connected properly and your alt is putting out close to 14v.

Torque Specs:
Alternator: 14mm Nut 29ft lbs, 14mm Bolt 29ft lbs, 12mm nut 11ft lbs, terminal post: 10mm nut 66inch pounds
PS Pump: 14mm Bolts 13ft lbs

 

[flintknapper]

Yea I've done it that way. Too much fumbling, squeezing fighting all while your on ur back under the truck. Then it's like giving birth in reverse getting it back in. The only extra things you have to take off going from the top is the ps pump hoses/ reservoir, air filter box(3bolts), and remove radiator overflow(2 bolts). On the flip side you don't have any of the the jack/jack stand set up, you don't have to mess with the skid plate, and you don't have to mess with taking radiator hoses off. This was by far easier for me, YMMV.

Agreed...if attacking this from the top, I found this exact procedure to be best.

I've done it both ways now (out from the bottom, out from the top). Found both ways to be equally challenging (just for different reasons).

 

[DickB]

I just did this last night (2001 LX470) and removed through the bottom. I removed the bolts holding the fan shroud in place and was able to remove it through the bottom without disconnecting any hoses. My processed looked like this:

1. take off air intake/filter box.
3. remove serpentine belt.
4. Remove PS pump and you can tied it up and out of the way
5. Remove nut on top of alternator for ground wire, remove the bolt that holds the plate on the wires are connected to, unbolt/slide alternator forward to remove the back plug
6. Loosen fan shroud bolts (two on top and one on the side holding the radiator overflow tank)
7. Crawl under and remove skid plate
8. Pull alternator through bottom. This is very tight but worked fine, just be careful not to break any of the lines off your radiator but with the fan shroud loose there is just barely enough room at the right angle.
9. Reverse order to reinstall.

Hopefully that helps save someone time from draining radiators and such.

 

[mongoose2231]

You know, Toyota really ****ed things up by putting the alt down below the ps pump and sharing bolts with it. I did the alt through the bottom, without actually removing any of the hoses etc. The unit needs to be rotated every which way to get it out, but it works. Lots of cursing though, lol

 

[ClassyJalopy]

You know, Toyota really f***ed things up by putting the alt down below the ps pump and sharing bolts with it. I did the alt through the bottom, without actually removing any of the hoses etc. The unit needs to be rotated every which way to get it out, but it works. Lots of cursing though, lol

And if you are really lucky your lower alternator mounting bolt will deliver a swift kick to your nuts but breaking in the bracket . Then you can spend time and money to either drill it out and retap or just use a slightly longer through bolt with a locking nut on the other end.

 

[fooldall1]

Too much effort. Take off the air cleaner. Remove the serp belt. Unbolt the PS pump, move it aside. Undo the alt bolts, take off the alt downward, remove from below. I found it easier to do with the radiator hose off, some folks have done it with hose in place. Don't remove radiator overflow, don't remove PS reservoir, don't undo PS hoses.

This is exactly the way it was done on my truck as well.

 

[flintknapper]

And if you are really lucky your lower alternator mounting bolt will deliver a swift kick to your nuts by breaking in the bracket . Then you can spend time and money to either drill it out and retap or just use a slightly longer through bolt with a locking nut on the other end.
View attachment 1974093

Oh no...........!

 

[kpecks]

Thx for the great write up. I’m trying to diagnose the dreaded whining coming from the engine bay. I think I’ve nailed it down to the alternator. But... I’m not 100% certain. What is the best way to tell other than pulling it and bench testing it? I do have tech stream... just started making whining noise 2 days ago.

 

[trdcorolla]

Thx for the great write up. I’m trying to diagnose the dreaded whining coming from the engine bay. I think I’ve nailed it down to the alternator. But... I’m not 100% certain. What is the best way to tell other than pulling it and bench testing it? I do have tech stream... just started making whining noise 2 days ago.

They sell car stethoscopes at harbor freight.

 

[Ayune]

For those of us who plan on replacing only the brushes and not the entire alternator, is it possible to do it while the assembly is still in the engine bay? Does the alternator need to be unmounted and rotated in-situ to allow access to the brushes?

 

[abuck99]

I read a thread post a while back that someone wrote that they changed brushes with alt still mounted. If you are nimble and patient enough to work around to the back side of the cover in confined area and remove it. Its only a few different nuts to undo the cover to replace the brushes.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I read a thread post a while back that someone wrote that they changed brushes with alt still mounted. If you are nimble and patient enough to work around to the back side of the cover in confined area and remove it. Its only a few different nuts to undo the cover to replace the brushes.

View attachment 1985782

That sounds ridiculously difficult given the location.

 

[kpecks]

Well, it looks like Toyota dealer is getting my money to replace my alternator. Truck but shut down 1.5miles away from the dealer. Thankfully, all worked out and it’ll be fixed next week and I won’t need it until next Sunday.

 

[abuck99]

That sounds ridiculously difficult given the location.

Agreed

 

[Pyrenees]

Agreed

I'm just going to say, I changed my brushes a few months ago. I'm a thin dude. I don't have big hands. I considered trying to change the brushes with the alternator still in the engine bay and realized it would be easier to just heave the thing out of the engine bay instead. If someone can actually change the brushes while it's in there, more power to them.

 

[flintknapper]

I'm just going to say, I changed my brushes a few months ago. I'm a thin dude. I don't have big hands. I considered trying to change the brushes with the alternator still in the engine bay and realized it would be easier to just heave the thing out of the engine bay instead. If someone can actually change the brushes while it's in there, more power to them.

^^^^ Hear ya! Those would be the same folks that can build a ship inside a bottle. Damn sure not me...!