What is needed to remove a harmonic balancer of a 2F?
Does if require puller? What type?
Phil
Does if require puller? What type?
Phil
Remove a harmonic balancer - How? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Get the radiator and all the other crap outta the way. Remove the big ass nut. Get a 2 arm puller. 2 Bolts thread into the 2 holes on the pulley. 10x1.25 I think. Crank the ctr bolt down against the crank an it will come off. Make sure you check for scoreing on the sealing surface of the balencer.
I have never had to use a puller to get a harmonic balancer off, it usually just slides right off. The tough part is getting the crank nut off. If the 2F is like the 3F, you need a 1-13/16" socket. Brace it against the frame, bungee it in place, then hope the starter has enough guts to bust it free:
Hope you have a BIG torque wrench, the spec on installing the nut is something like 254 ft-lbs. You can borrow one (and a puller) from AutoZone.
Hope you have a BIG torque wrench, the spec on installing the nut is something like 254 ft-lbs. You can borrow one (and a puller) from AutoZone.
Last edited:
OK, thanks for the clarification. The 2F must be different than the 3FE.
- Thread starter
- #6
KLF said:I have never had to use a puller to get a harmonic balancer off, it usually just slides right off. The tough part is getting the crank nut off. If the 2F is like the 3F, you need a 1-13/16" socket. Brace it against the frame, bungee it in place, then hope the starter has enough guts to bust it free:
Hope you have a BIG torque wrench, the spec on installing the nut is something like 254 ft-lbs. You can borrow one (and a puller) from AutoZone.
Thanks KLF for the tip..starter system worked great.
Phil
I have a 1969 FJ40 but the engine is 1.5F. It took two 10x1.5x70mm bolts. I built my own puller out of an old medical stand hunk of metal. I used various sizes of sockets to push out the HWB. It took a lot of pulling before that wheel balancer came off. It was about 2 inches of metal deep. The big 46 mm socket came off easy after I put the engine on a stand and put a bolt in the back to keep it from spinning. I sprayed penetrating stuff on it overnight before I tried it though.
Yes, well I responded mostly because the bolt size quoted in the earlier thread was wrong and I had to make another trip back to the store to get the right ones. 10x1.5x70mm are the right size to use.
The 2F in my 45 has a 45mm bolt on it balancer. Glad this was here, engaged in granny gear wasn't doing it. Will try the stater bit tomorrow.
FJ60Seth
SILVER Star
In Mexican boat yards, I’ve seen big crank bolts torqued with a breaker bar and a bathroom scale. For 300 lbs-ft, place the scale 5 feet from the bolt. Put pipe on breaker bar, stand on scale and tighten bolt. Add or subtract 60 lbs, depending on direction.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Like said above, try a length of pipe over your wrench handle if you haven’t yet. That’s how I did mine. 4’ pipe and haul on it over the passenger side fender.
I'm not sure if there is enough clearance in the LC for this trick but I've done it on older saabs. The breaker bar basically rests against the frame rail or ground...depending on length of bar. Pull the coil wire and bump the starter.
Yes, there's plenty of room, see post #3 above (I fixed the photo).
That's exactly what I did. However, not against the passenger side,, against the driver side frame. Placed a block of wood between the two and backed it off a few inches. When I hit the starter it was just enough to break it free, when it hit the wood. Now, after fixing the oil leak in the timing gear gasket, I need to work on getting it torqued back down.
How did you get it torqued back on? Any trick for that?
cps432
SILVER Star
Impact gun will do a good job to get it most of the way on. You need a large torque wrench to get it to spec. And you really should make sure it’s to spec. I’m having to deal with the damage of a nut that walked itself back a bit and allowed the pulley to wobble.
I was looking at mine tonight, and I had lateral movement left and right. The HB/Pulley will turn because the locking tabs are loose enough to allow it to rotate about a 1/4” each way. It looks like there is a little gap between the locking plate and the Nut, although the Nut isn’t loose. I can detect a VERY slight F/R movement of the HB/Pulley. I don’t see any other visual signs of defects.
Does that sound like a problem HB? I’m 99% committed to pulling it, but I’m trying to confirm it should be repaired/replaced. Appreciate your thoughts!
Does that sound like a problem HB? I’m 99% committed to pulling it, but I’m trying to confirm it should be repaired/replaced. Appreciate your thoughts!
the HB should not move at all on the crank shaft. if it does, there is an issue that needs to be fixed,
worn key
worn key way in crank
worn key/ID of HB
wear on the crankshaft snout
combo of all 4 above
if there is in and out movement, is the HB moving or the entire crankshaft?
