remflex gaskets (1 Viewer)

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I am gonna replace my carb and air intake. Who should i get the remflex gaskets from and what gaskets do i need?
 
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Do you mean you're replacing the carb/manifold gaskets, or the actual carb and manifold?

If you're getting 'good as new' assemblies, I think you'd be better off with OEM gaskets. The remflex ones are really better for if your gasket surfaces are a bit pitted or slightly warped.

If you mean you're replacing the gaskets, get the gaskets direct from remflex's website. There was a place that used to sell just the ones for cruisers, but they went out of business a while.

My personal experience with the remflex gaskets is...they're awesome, for everything _but_ the heat riser/intake-to-exhaust joint. I had to pre-over-torque all the bolts to compress the remflex gaskets to get the two manifolds to line up for the bolts/studs on the head. It worked, but it wasn't what I'd call optimal.

Also, ditch the stock manifold studs and just go for bolts. It'll make the reinstall so much easier. Otherwise, you'll have to either remove the exhaust downpipe, or do what I did, and crawl underneath the cruiser to pry on it with a crowbar and a loop of rope, while someone maneuvers the manifolds from above.

So, that makes for six of the 'big' manifold bolts, and two of the little end bolts. And yeah, you should replace them; they get stretched and don't torque properly if you reuse them.
 
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Oh, forgot to mention, the carb doesn't actually have a gasket, per se. There's just rubber bonded to either side of the plastic heat shield that goes between it and the manifold. If the rubber gets too eff'd up, you can try getting the 'extra' gaskets from Specter Off Road, but it's generally agreed that the $140 replacement insulator plate is the 'permanent' solution.

It should be noted that I tried the SOR gaskets, and they did seem to work pretty well, but it turned out my insulator plate wasn't really all that bad; I ditched the SOR gaskets when I took it all apart again to do the manifold gasket, and it's making just as good a seal.
 
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Does irongiant on this board still sell the Remflex gaskets? If so, might want to throw the business his way (I had actually bought mine off of Amazon before I learned that irongiant had them). Support the board!
 
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Does irongiant on this board still sell the Remflex gaskets? If so, might want to throw the business his way (I had actually bought mine off of Amazon before I learned that irongiant had them). Support the board!
I got mine from Irongiant back in the day... looks like his site is down.
he used fundametalism.com but must've not renewed it...

I'd get them from remflex direct.
 
Joined
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pickens, sc
 
 
Do you mean you're replacing the carb/manifold gaskets, or the actual carb and manifold?

If you're getting 'good as new' assemblies, I think you'd be better off with OEM gaskets. The remflex ones are really better for if your gasket surfaces are a bit pitted or slightly warped.

If you mean you're replacing the gaskets, get the gaskets direct from remflex's website. There was a place that used to sell just the ones for cruisers, but they went out of business a while.

My personal experience with the remflex gaskets is...they're awesome, for everything _but_ the heat riser/intake-to-exhaust joint. I had to pre-over-torque all the bolts to compress the remflex gaskets to get the two manifolds to line up for the bolts/studs on the head. It worked, but it wasn't what I'd call optimal.

Also, ditch the stock manifold studs and just go for bolts. It'll make the reinstall so much easier. Otherwise, you'll have to either remove the exhaust downpipe, or do what I did, and crawl underneath the cruiser to pry on it with a crowbar and a loop of rope, while someone maneuvers the manifolds from above.

So, that makes for six of the 'big' manifold bolts, and two of the little end bolts. And yeah, you should replace them; they get stretched and don't torque properly if you reuse them.
The intake has the typical crack in the bottom of it. I am also getting a new carb from trollhole when he gets his next shipment in. I am getting another intake from someone in the club. I am going to schedule a hamom with the ucers but need a shopping list 1st.:hmm:
 
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Well, if you're doing all that...non-cheapass stuff, you should bring the new-to-you intake and your old exhaust manifold to a machinist to get the gasket surface leveled, and go with OEM-style gaskets all around. In my opinion, the Remflex ones are better for those who have maybe a sliiiightly warped or pitted manifold, who can't afford to get it fixed 'properly.' It seems kind of silly not to spend $80 to get the manifolds machined if you've got a trollhole carb in your budget.
 
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I got mine from Irongiant back in the day... looks like his site is down.
he used fundametalism.com but must've not renewed it...

I'd get them from remflex direct.
If I recall correctly, he's in Japan for a while.
 

rover67

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Well, if you're doing all that...non-cheapass stuff, you should bring the new-to-you intake and your old exhaust manifold to a machinist to get the gasket surface leveled, and go with OEM-style gaskets all around. In my opinion, the Remflex ones are better for those who have maybe a sliiiightly warped or pitted manifold, who can't afford to get it fixed 'properly.' It seems kind of silly not to spend $80 to get the manifolds machined if you've got a trollhole carb in your budget.
This is good advise. Machine the manifolds and use a stock gasket.
 

Southeast Overland

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Check your heat riser/flapper in the exhaust manifold. If it's bad pull it, put a block off plate in, and weld the hole in the exhaust manifold shut.

Mate the intake and exhaust with a stock gasket - OEM only.

Put a straight edge on it. I bet you will need to get the two planed.

Get them planed.

Even now use a Remflex gasket. I did this, it worked great. Yes, an OEM gasket will probably work but the Remflex has more wiggle room to let things seal up correctly.
 
Joined
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If you do go with the Remflex, pay special attention to torquing it to the 14-18 ft/lbs spec on the package, not the 30ish ft/lbs for a stock gasket. The remflex doesn't need as much pressure from the bolts to squish into the nooks and crannies of the manifolds/head, and too much pressure will probably shorten the gasket's lifespan.
 
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ok so i still need to get the intake form eventhough and i am having my header rewelded as we speak. The flange has separated. I notice around where each pipe meets the engine the surface is raised. It is supposed to be this way correct? or am i suppose to be completely flat all around??
 
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down in a hole.
 
 
i do believe that raised boss on the inside of the header flange is meant to be the sealing surface......but wait for some confirmation on that!:hillbilly:
 
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i do believe that raised boss on the inside of the header flange is meant to be the sealing surface......but wait for some confirmation on that!:hillbilly:
You are correct. The design of that flange does not work well with the siamesed exhaust ports of the stock 2f gasket. A gasket with a divider between the exhaust ports, preferrably with fire rings, works far better. Remflex, I'm told, works well too.
 

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