Hi, What do you use and why ? An aircraft mechanic I meet says there is no advantage to using synthetic oil and that it is illegal to use in aircraft. I've used both and never had but one problem and that was a Volvo turbo that went out at 40,000 miles. The whole Volvo was a Lemmon anyway so may have not been the oil. Rambling aside. Synthetic or regular ? Scientific reason for your answer. Mike
Regular oil or synthetic ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Michael Hanson
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Regular, and Rotella T is probably your best bet - You need a high zinc content oil (I see the term ZDDP used along with high zinc a lot).
Your flat tappet cam needs more zinc in the oil than is found in most modern oils, to prevent wear.
- Brian
Your flat tappet cam needs more zinc in the oil than is found in most modern oils, to prevent wear.
- Brian
cps432
SILVER Star
I have recently replaced all the seals and gaskets outside of the engine. I chose to go with rotella full synthetic when I refilled. My timing cover started leaking immediately. My guess is it’s too thin and maybe the detergents are allowing the oil to slip through rather than swell the cork gaskets. Once I get a warmer day I’ll try to change out to a traditional fluid with a heavier weight. Maybe that’ll get the gaskets to seal up properly.
cps432
SILVER Star
What weight?
I changed to Mobile 1 a few years ago in all but 1 of my Cruisers(the 64 45LV), no leaks at all. We don't put a ton of miles on any of our rigs yearly, so I just change them all once a year now. I toss in some ZLP in the F,2F or 3fe
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Rotella is my move...though Mobil 1 15w50 is a nice option for syn and found easily at Walmart as well.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks, We drive a lot , tow and are in the woods and are building homes and remodeling . These trucks work and are not show ponies. That said I do the required maintaince myself and use Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30 . I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. These are daily drivers ,In town and on the road from stop and go traffic to 75 miles an hour. Who works their trucks daily ? Thanks, Mike
Valvoline vr1.
Half-information ...
ALL aircraft TURBINE engines use synthetic, mineral oils can't handle the temps.
Piston Aircraft engines don't use FULL synthetic - And it's not because of the properties of syn oil - It's something to do with Av-gas and piston rings but I don't remember. You can do the searching if it matters.
Syn or Dino doesn't matter as long as the levels of zddp are appropriate for antique engine.
Scientific answer for Syn: Lubricity.
Scientific answer against Syn: Cheapness.
ALL aircraft TURBINE engines use synthetic, mineral oils can't handle the temps.
Piston Aircraft engines don't use FULL synthetic - And it's not because of the properties of syn oil - It's something to do with Av-gas and piston rings but I don't remember. You can do the searching if it matters.
Syn or Dino doesn't matter as long as the levels of zddp are appropriate for antique engine.
Scientific answer for Syn: Lubricity.
Scientific answer against Syn: Cheapness.
Even the cheapest of Dino oil with v. high paraffin content won't do that if they're changed at specified intervals. Syn can sludge too, but far less prone to it.
Racing oils are purpose-designed for racing. Not a good choice for a low-rev engine that most people neglect.
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Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track and is compatible with passenger vehicles.
It increases HP!!
- High zinc/phosphorus for anti-wear protection, including push-rod & flat tappet applications
- Formulated to increase horsepower
- Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
- Recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels
It increases HP!!
Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track and is compatible with passenger vehicles.
- High zinc/phosphorus for anti-wear protection, including push-rod & flat tappet applications
- Formulated to increase horsepower
- Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
- Recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels
It increases HP!!
I second the VR1. Been using it for the last 10 years and have tore down my small block Chevy in my 68 Camaro for different reasons and upgrades and have found no issues. Zinc is the key!
It has been a few years so the formulations may have changed, but Valvoline Racing oils didn't have the additive package for long-mileage drain intervals (5k miles), that's why they don't have the API Starburst label, like normal passenger car oil. They have plenty of zinc. Way more than you need, actually, and if I run low on my normal oil fill, I will add a qt of VR1 to keep the zinc levels up.
But like these threads always devolve into: Use whatever makes you feel good.
But like these threads always devolve into: Use whatever makes you feel good.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
This reminds me i think i need to check my oil probably need to just change it too
