Regear/Locker Install Questions (1 Viewer)

[trdcorolla]

This isn't a "is regearing worth it" or "is a locker worth it" or "how much all this is gonna cost me" thread.

I'm planning on locking the front and rear of my 100. While i'm only on 33's right now and my diffs will be opened up for lockers, I might as well regear which will help out my 4 speed tranny, I plan on 34's next.

I normally try to do things myself but a regear/locker is above my pay grade and I have a young baby now so I don't have much time for this stuff anymore.

I will be using the 80's OEM locker switch/connector/wire splices to wire it. My 2001 LX does not have the front or rear locker indicators on the dash, so I can't wire/add lights to those.

The questions I have are:
1) Will a shop drop the front diff like if you were gonna send it to Zuk or will they leave it on during the install? Any maintenance I should add while they are in the front diff? The oil seal where the CV goes into the axle? Does the pinion have to come out? If so, pinion seal? Maybe the front diff bushings?

2) Will a shop drop the 3rd member like if you were gonna send it to Zuk or will they leave the 3rd member on during the install? Any maintenance I should add while they are in the rear diff? New oil seals like the front? Same question like the front, does the rear pinion have to come out?

3) I don't know what brand axle seals/pinion seals the shop will use, if not OEM, should I supply them with those?

4) I've read something about a solid collar, I don't see it on Nitro's website for the 100, is it worth asking the shop about this or just let them do their thing?

5) Regarding the picture at Toyota 8'' Rev & 9.5'' Land Cruiser 100 Series Nitro Gear Package - https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-100-Series-Nitro-Gear-Package-p/gptoy100-select-1.htm

On the top of the picture, what is the bronze looking metal circle that looks like it has a seal in it? I'll look for the OEM part for that.

6) Do shops normally give a cool paper full of notes they give you like Zuk does? It looks like Nitro Gear requires the set up specs for any warranty claim.

7) What should I look for/inspect before leaving the shop after the install besides looking for leaks?

A Toyota specialist/off road shop will be doing the work, they will check/replace any bearings as needed during the install. They are a Nitro recommended installer and an authorized Arb/Eaton/Harrop dealer. I've called a few shops, some shops can do this in a day (without wiring the switch) and some shops say a week (with wiring the switch), any comment on that? I'm probably overthinking this like a lot of us here on mud. The shop i'm picking says they'll need it for 5 days.

Any other questions I should ask? The next available slot is in July, so i'll do more research and see what replies I get here before I pay a deposit/schedule my appointment.

Thanks!

 

[saucebox]

1+2: they have to come out.
3: Depends. If the nitro kit moves you to the 32-spline pinion (29 is stock), you might need a different seal (or the OEM for the 200-series, but I don't know that for sure)
4: Solid spacers: SKCSTV6 (front) and SKCST9.5. About $100 for both.
5: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
6: This probably depends on the shop.
7: Can't see anything but leaks anyway. You'll want to watch for leaks where the CV axles meet the front diff housing since they have to come out.

Good luck, it'll be awesome.

Edit: The Nitro pic from your link shows the front solid spacer there already, but doesn't show for the rear.

 

[trdcorolla]

1+2: they have to come out.
3: Depends. If the nitro kit moves you to the 32-spline pinion (29 is stock), you might need a different seal (or the OEM for the 200-series, but I don't know that for sure)
4: Solid spacers: SKCSTV6 (front) and SKCST9.5. About $100 for both.
5: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
6: This probably depends on the shop.
7: Can't see anything but leaks anyway. You'll want to watch for leaks where the CV axles meet the front diff housing since they have to come out.

Good luck, it'll be awesome.

Edit: The Nitro pic from your link shows the front solid spacer there already, but doesn't show for the rear.

Number 3 above, do the axle seals stay the same but the pinion seal might be different if the spline count changes? If so, i'll make sure they use OEM axle seals and if their pinion seal leaks after their warranty is up, it doesn't look like a too hard of a job to replace it with the OEM one later one.

Number 4 above, i'll double check with the shop about the solid spacers and make sure the front and rear are solid.

I'm thinking of putting the stock skids back on before bringing it to the shop, this will minimize the chances of them losing an aftermarket skid bolt and it'll give me the opportunity to look at their work when I put back the aftermarket skid after the install.

Thanks again!

 

[saucebox]

Number 3 above, do the axle seals stay the same but the pinion seal might be different if the spline count changes? If so, i'll make sure they use OEM axle seals and if their pinion seal leaks after their warranty is up, it doesn't look like a too hard of a job to replace it with the OEM one later one.

Number 4 above, i'll double check with the shop about the solid spacers and make sure the front and rear are solid.

I'm thinking of putting the stock skids back on before bringing it to the shop, this will minimize the chances of them losing an aftermarket skid bolt and it'll give me the opportunity to look at their work when I put back the aftermarket skid after the install.

Thanks again!

That's the way I understand it (regarding pinion seals). And if you go with solid spacers, the pinion seal should be an easy change if or when it ever needs to be done again.

 

[trdcorolla]

Just booked my install for this July. I have more questions about locker indicator lights. I don't have a rear locker indicator on my 01 LX cluster like the 98-99 LX's. I want to add a light on top of the 80's knob in the blank switch plate. I originally wanted 2 lights. One light for RR and a second light for FR-RR but @hoser had a good point, only one light is needed since the 80's switch doesn't let you control the front locker independently. Here are some lights that i've found that could be a good locker on indicator light.

LED Light only (no icon to keep it simple)
Amazon product ASIN B01AF5THFS

Gearbox Failure Light (it looks like a big gear)
Amazon product ASIN B082H29MLW

A Key Light (to show it's locked?)
Amazon.com: uxcell Pilot Dashboard Light DC 12V 8mm Red LED Signal Indicator Light Aluminum Shell with Symbol (Key): Industrial & Scientific - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082H2RTXT

What do you guys think?

 

[trdcorolla]

Decided on the Gearbox Failure light for my locker indicator. It just came in and I installed it. Also moved my subwoofer knob from where the 80's switch will go into the vertical blank spot on the left side. I originally wanted 2 indicator lights for the front/rear but thanks to @hoser recommending 1 is enough since the rear will be on either way, to just have one light wired to the rear.

Here's what it looks like when the locker(s) are activated.

Seeing this will make my end of July regear/locker install (the shop is that busy) feel further and further away.

 

[flintknapper]

Why hamstring yourself with using the 80 series OEM switch? Just order individual front and rear (push button or rocker) switches. That way you will be 'selectable' front, rear or both. Also have each illuminated when activated.

Lots of vendors offer them. Example

Search results for: 'locker switch toyota' - AIR ON BOARD (AOB)

Air On Board is a professional designer of vehicle air systems, switches, recovery gears, panels, tanks, diff breather kits and many other more accessories specializing to the 4WD and trade markets for over one decade

www.aironboard.com.au

 

[hoser]

@trdcorolla FYI, I have my compressor switch (and light) in that location and I can barely see it glow.

@flintknapper I've thought long and hard about that one but came to the conclusion the rotary locker switch is great. Easy to use and detect what position you are in, even when you are leaning over and feel like you are going to flop.

If somebody could design a new rotary switch, similar to the 80 switch except you could add a third function. Maybe "Pull and turn counter-clockwise" for front locker only.... I'd be most grateful.

Picture of my VW switch for visual.

 

[trdcorolla]

Why hamstring yourself with using the 80 series OEM switch? Just order individual front and rear (push button or rocker) switches. That way you will be 'selectable' front, rear or both. Also have each illuminated when activated.

Lots of vendors offer them. Example

Search results for: 'locker switch toyota' - AIR ON BOARD (AOB)

Air On Board is a professional designer of vehicle air systems, switches, recovery gears, panels, tanks, diff breather kits and many other more accessories specializing to the 4WD and trade markets for over one decade

www.aironboard.com.au

I like the 80's knob like a I like a physical volume button, easy to use without looking. I like the spring loaded safety switches that comes with the Eaton's but I want to control both lockers with 1 switch that only takes one slot, and all the dual locker switches I've found aren't spring loaded safety switches. I'll probably add a hidden switch to disable the rear when FR-RR is selected.

 

[trdcorolla]

@trdcorolla FYI, I have my compressor switch (and light) in that location and I can barely see it glow.

@flintknapper I've thought long and hard about that one but came to the conclusion the rotary locker switch is great. Easy to use and detect what position you are in, even when you are leaning over and feel like you are going to flop.

If somebody could design a new rotary switch, similar to the 80 switch except you could add a third function. Maybe "Pull and turn counter-clockwise" for front locker only.... I'd be most grateful.

Picture of my VW switch for visual.

View attachment 2654313

The indicator light isn't for me, it's for other people who'll drive the 100. It's easy to say don't touch these buttons/switches (center diff/locker knob) and make sure there are no lights here (pointing to the lower cluster) and make sure this light is OFF (pointing to the red light on top of the rotary knob).