Refreshing a 1FZ, cheap as practical (1 Viewer)

[tmxmotorsports]

i am also going to say that block will need to be punched out. looks like too much rust for just a hone

Some jb weld and a hone lol

 

[fjbj40]

i am also going to say that block will need to be punched out. looks like too much rust for just a hone

High probability, but first a hone and measure.

And if it needs boring then I will have to decide if I want to go that way.

My engine only has 295,000 miles and works just fine.

If I’m going to go a whole hog rebuild then I will do my engine and not this one.

I’m just playing with this one. It cost me $$ zero, so I’m using it mostly as a learning tool and 1Fz education

 

[mudgudgeon]

Some jb weld and a hone lol

So, "cheap as practical", does that mean skipping the OEM Toyota branded JB Weld, and using JB Weld,
or
going to the Dollar General for some Chyna Weld

 

[tmxmotorsports]

High probability, but first a hone and measure.

And if it needs boring then I will have to decide if I want to go that way.

My engine only has 295,000 miles and works just fine.

If I’m going to go a whole hog rebuild then I will do my engine and not this one.

I’m just playing with this one. It cost me $$ zero, so I’m using it mostly as a learning tool and 1Fz education

All jokes aside I'm watching this thread

 

[fjbj40]

Valve train, cams are dead

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Valve train, cams are dead

View attachment 3334632

View attachment 3334638

Do you need used cams or are you buying new ones? Will be pulling a engine out of my 95 that one of the pistons decided it wanted to be out of the bottom of the oil pan so head is probably done but cams might be ok... going to be a while before I do I just purchased another 95 that has been wrecked and engine is good so I may have some salvageable parts that are in my 5 cylinder 1fz.
Tommy

 

[PIP]

You can get away with rust pits and damage if the piston was at BDC and all corrosion is at the bottom. If there are rust pits nearer the top- especially the top 15% of ring travel then you might have to count that cylinder out from doing it's job. It will likely consume oil and may foul that plug. The engine will run. The long term effect of running an engine with rust pits is often that that cylinder bore wears exponentially more than the rest.

I have worked on many 6.0 Powerstrokes. I've seen many and put many miles on ones that sat for long periods with water in the cylinders. One was particularly bad when we pulled the top end off and there was absolutely nothing to indicate anything was wrong with it. It ran fine before. We put it back together and it's still running fine.

What hone are you using? Ball hones will take off the glaze, but can't really correct any damage.

What you want ideally is a rigid hone with finishing stones and guide shoes. A nice Sunnen manual hone is a hell of a nice tool, but there are cheap home shop grade knockoffs that work OK made by Ammco and Lisle for engine cylinders as well. I use manual hones extensively for hydraulic cylinder repairs. I have a couple of the Ammco ones I'll use for real nasty stuff I won't touch with a nice hone. They work fine. They're just crude compared to a Sunnen.

 

[fjbj40]

You can get away with rust pits and damage if the piston was at BDC and all corrosion is at the bottom. If there are rust pits nearer the top- especially the top 15% of ring travel then you might have to count that cylinder out from doing it's job. It will likely consume oil and may foul that plug. The engine will run. The long term effect of running an engine with rust pits is often that that cylinder bore wears exponentially more than the rest.

I have worked on many 6.0 Powerstrokes. I've seen many and put many miles on ones that sat for long periods with water in the cylinders. One was particularly bad when we pulled the top end off and there was absolutely nothing to indicate anything was wrong with it. It ran fine before. We put it back together and it's still running fine.

What hone are you using? Ball hones will take off the glaze, but can't really correct any damage.

What you want ideally is a rigid hone with finishing stones and guide shoes. A nice Sunnen manual hone is a hell of a nice tool, but there are cheap home shop grade knockoffs that work OK made by Ammco and Lisle for engine cylinders as well. I use manual hones extensively for hydraulic cylinder repairs. I have a couple of the Ammco ones I'll use for real nasty stuff I won't touch with a nice hone. They work fine. They're just crude compared to a Sunnen.

I’ll use a three finger to hone. Ball deglazer for un-damaged bores.

Thanks for all the great info, it all helps!

I’m hoping this turns out really good in an economic way.

If I can finish this thread to a well running engine I’m hoping it will help others in some way.

 

[PIP]

I’ll use a three finger to hone. Ball deglazer for un-damaged bores.

It's pretty important that you hone each cylinder exactly the same with the same tool.

Those spring loaded finger hone things are pretty terrible.

Lisle 15000 Lisle Cylinder Hones | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Lisle Cylinder Hones with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Hone Tools at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

The lisle 15000 looks like a cheap version of a Sunnen AN110. It looks like a fair deal new if I read the description correctly and it includes 80 and 180 grit stones. 80 is handy for roughing. You will want to use a 180-220 grit stone to take out a thou or two from your bores.

The Ammco model 500 is no longer made seems, but they are everywhere used.

Honing fluid is a subject you can get lost in as well. Make sure whatever tool you use, you also put some effort into the right fluid. You can cook up your own, but real honing fluid is night and day over anything else.

 

[fjbj40]

It's pretty important that you hone each cylinder exactly the same with the same tool.

Those spring loaded finger hone things are pretty terrible.

Lisle 15000 Lisle Cylinder Hones | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Lisle Cylinder Hones with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Hone Tools at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

The lisle 15000 looks like a cheap version of a Sunnen AN110. It looks like a fair deal new if I read the description correctly and it includes 80 and 180 grit stones. 80 is handy for roughing. You will want to use a 180-220 grit stone to take out a thou or two from your bores.

The Ammco model 500 is no longer made seems, but they are everywhere used.

Honing fluid is a subject you can get lost in as well. Make sure whatever tool you use, you also put some effort into the right fluid. You can cook up your own, but real honing fluid is night and day over anything else.

Thanks, that’s the style of hone I was looking at years ago! Forgot all about it!

That’s what I may eventually procure to proceed in the bores.

 

[PIP]

Thanks, that’s the style of hone I was looking at years ago! Forgot all about it!

That’s what I may eventually procure to proceed in the bores.

This style is called a "rigid hone". With a rigid hone you can feel what is going on and you can make a round, straight bore.

A .0001" resolution dial bore gage and a micrometer to set it with are also handy tools to have for working on engine cylinders.

 

[fjbj40]

Well, this got put on the back burner

A customer wants a complete restoration done on his 1975 Suzuki GT380 2 stroke.

This will provide the funds to continue the 1Fz refresh, still going to proceed as planned and do most quality economical job.

Cheers

 

[06reg4x4]

I’ve done so many down and dirty rebuilds. And all but one are still running. Even at Toyota they have you check stuff and 90% of the time it’s erring and gasket and roll.