Recovery points and winches with ARB Sahara bar (9 Viewers)

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Camera phone? Computer too old? Does your Mac take 3.5" floppies? I have this old Panasonic camera that uses 3.5" discs. It's kinda cool. PM me if interested.

Dont' worry about the pictures. I thought it was going to be easy.

Snook, this type of shackle might work out better for using the Hi-Lift... can be found at ACE hardware.
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Camera phone? Computer too old? Does your Mac take 3.5" floppies? I have this old Panasonic camera that uses 3.5" discs. It's kinda cool. PM me if interested.

Dont' worry about the pictures. I thought it was going to be easy.


Maybe he could draw you a picture...:D
 
No jacking points? ARB even advertises their jacking points on the Deluxe bar. Sahara no have?

" A number of recent ARB heavy duty bumpers incorporate Hi-Lift jacking points neatly positioned in the center pan, allowing a Hi-Lift jack to be mounted directly onto the bar and eliminating the need for a mounting bracket. These points also enable easier access to the clutch lever when unspooling the wire rope before winching.

What sort of vehicle is that? I received the ARB catalog yesterday, and that vehicle was on the cover, but I couldn't tell what it was.

Thanks.
 
That vehicle is a Nissan Patrol... perhaps the Land Cruisers' biggest rival in Australia.
 
Maybe he could draw you a picture...:D

I bet his scanner wont work with his old mac either.

Jim, when you gona upgrade?





For recovery points, if you have everything OEM...including bumpers, what is the best way to hook a tow strap or something along those lines to the vehicle? The little eyelets?
 
I bet his scanner wont work with his old mac either.

Jim, when you gona upgrade?





For recovery points, if you have everything OEM...including bumpers, what is the best way to hook a tow strap or something along those lines to the vehicle? The little eyelets?


The closed loop factory ship anchor bracket is probably the only viable option; albeit a poor one. A couple downsides: The winchline/tow strap/yanker strap will rub on the bottom side of the OEM bumper and the bracket is NOT rated and won't take much load in my opinion. Worse IMO would be to use the long, cast iron "J" bracket...there are a few on 'MUD that have said they have had these break!

I guess Toyota figured the rig is so well designed it would never need to be extricated ;) .
 
The closed loop factory ship anchor bracket is probably the only viable option; albeit a poor one. A couple downsides: The winchline/tow strap/yanker strap will rub on the bottom side of the OEM bumper and the bracket is NOT rated and won't take much load in my opinion. Worse IMO would be to use the long, cast iron "J" bracket...there are a few on 'MUD that have said they have had these break!


The only closed loop brackets I have are the tie-down brackets for shipping. Nothing like the closed loops on the 80 Series (or 105) (which have been argued by some on MUD to even not be strong enough and are in fact also tie-downs). They're basically thick plates, maybe 5/16" with holes in them. Most definately NOT recovery points. The J-hook is the correct recovery point, at least on the 2004 models. Can't speak to others. If they are breaking, then it's better to replace with aftermarket. Under no circumstances would I use the closed tie-down brackets on my 100. One way to tell intended purpose is to look at how they are oriented. My closed loops are oriented downward, matching their intended purpose of tie-downs. My J-hooks point forward and backward. They are open at the bottom and cannot even be physically used for tie-downs.
 
I've been waiting for the new Windows OS to be released, as I didn't want to get XP and then have to reformat the entire hard drive soon thereafter. Now that it's out, maybe next month.

Okay, guys, the scanner works w/ the old mac! The pic applies to LC's and LX's from 9/02+ for the sahara bar. The eyelet is directly below the front body mount. There are 3 bolts on each side that fasten the ARB mount to the frame. The front most is the long bolt that goes through the cylindrical insert. Then there are the two bolts that fasten the eyelet through the spacer to the frame.
 
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The only closed loop brackets I have are the tie-down brackets for shipping. Nothing like the closed loops on the 80 Series (or 105) (which have been argued by some on MUD to even not be strong enough and are in fact also tie-downs). They're basically thick plates, maybe 5/16" with holes in them. Most definately NOT recovery points. The J-hook is the correct recovery point, at least on the 2004 models. Can't speak to others. If they are breaking, then it's better to replace with aftermarket. Under no circumstances would I use the closed tie-down brackets on my 100. One way to tell intended purpose is to look at how they are oriented. My closed loops are oriented downward, matching their intended purpose of tie-downs. My J-hooks point forward and backward. They are open at the bottom and cannot even be physically used for tie-downs.


FYI: There are no commercial LC100 recovery brackets available...that's why we had a few custo one-off's made. With the OEM bumper it's a design challenge to design something strong enough but yet offers extension downward to clear the bumper...
 
FYI: There are no commercial LC100 recovery brackets available...that's why we had a few custo one-off's made. With the OEM bumper it's a design challenge to design something strong enough but yet offers extension downward to clear the bumper...


Oh yeah, I remember those. Are there any left for sale?
 
Just take your MOG key to your local hardware for a duplicate set of key......then your prayer (figurative speaking) will be answered.

Cheers,


Hehe, you're relentless... ;)
 
There are 3 bolts on each side that fasten the ARB mount to the frame. The front most is the long bolt that goes through the cylindrical insert. Then there are the two bolts that fasten the eyelet through the spacer to the frame.
Here is the combination bar mount (taken with my phone cam). The frame horn is captured on 5 sides by the accordian mounts. Fasteners include two bottom bolts, one bolt on the face and one nut/bolt laterally. Notice the sides of the mounts extend down further, like 1.5". If the OEM eyelet was mounted, the sides of the accordian mounts would cover half the eyelet. But I suppose if I reversed the eyelet, that little indention on one side might allow me to still use it.

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couldnt you try n swap the left side to the right and right to left also hoser? Instead of reversing them, just swap it?
 
Well, the indentation is towards the rear and I think only on DS frame rail. I had installed the bumper without the instructions, so I really didn't give the tie-down eyelets much thought. I was just happy to get the bumper on. I'll have to look at it again.
 
How about machining a spacer and using longer grade-8 bolts to lower the eyelet?
 
Or just get one those nifty spresso recovery brackets... no eyelet needed.
 

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