3 link it and then sell me your delta arms!!! problem solved!
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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- Thread starter
- #763
For now I have a repair in progress that should be good enough forever but my main purpose for this repair right now is so I’ll be able to hit the Washington Back Country Discovery Route later in August with 4 other 80 guys who are here on Mud.
Yesterday I got as far as welding the bracket back into one piece on the axle housing. Now for reinforcements. We are in the middle of a heat wave here. Yesterday it was 95. High temps make this kind of job a physically challenging affair. My leather welding jacket soaked through.
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- Thread starter
- #764
This repair should hold permanently …. until it breaks again…… as yo can see in the first two pics there were big gaps to fill but that worked out. I added the single side gusset because access to the top most weld point (that tiny flat bar) was not possible so I figure the gusset will help do whatever that piece was doing. I do know that the bracket will be more stable laterally for sure.
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- #765
Uhh - The truck isn't resting on those cinder blocks .... right?
FMC80
SILVER Star
When will you be more responsible with your toys, Steven?
Time to invest in some large jack stands or make sure the cinder blocks are out of the picture before you post
I use the 12 ton jack stands that extend to 30 inches
What you have done so fare looks good, BUT IMHO you need to let the axle drop out and pull the springs and weld a new plate across the top. I would also continue the welds all the way up the sides.
I know you have time to do this before your next run !!
That way you can run chocolate thunder back wards in November when we go to JV
I use the 12 ton jack stands that extend to 30 inches
What you have done so fare looks good, BUT IMHO you need to let the axle drop out and pull the springs and weld a new plate across the top. I would also continue the welds all the way up the sides.
I know you have time to do this before your next run !!
That way you can run chocolate thunder back wards in November when we go to JV
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- #769
The blocks are a second safety. I’m a farm kid, we left the John Deere on cinder blocks all the time. What’s wrong with that?
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- #770
The welds were never run clear to the top of the bracket and the cracks start at the bottom of the bracket not the top of the weld. I put the gusset in because the top of the bracket is inaccessible even with the spring out. I don’t think that tiny piece at the top with its tiny welds was capable of doing much anyway. I considered a gusset on the inboard side but it looked like a rock catcher.Time to invest in some large jack stands or make sure the cinder blocks are out of the picture before you post
I use the 12 ton jack stands that extend to 30 inches
What you have done so fare looks good, BUT IMHO you need to let the axle drop out and pull the springs and weld a new plate across the top. I would also continue the welds all the way up the sides.
I know you have time to do this before your next run !!
That way you can run chocolate thunder back wards in November when we go to JV
Of course you can get to it, the force is pushing up and front to back. Again JMHO you need to weld something more substantial on top and weld all the way up the sides That will increase the over all strength.
The little piece on top and lack of welding up the sides is why you are seeing that failure.
The plates that you added are helping, I don't think the gussets are !
You need to stop the bracket from flexing up and down.
I stuck a Gopro under the truck and filmed going up a RTI ramp - I was surprised how much lateral force you get on those brackets when you pretzel and the radius arms rotate sideways. I think the gusset is a plus and it's not really taking anything away other than time to fab it.
Would be nice if someone had a CAD file for the brackets so the OEs could be cut off and we could burn out a thicker set on a bench. Of course then you'd have to make sure you got placement bang on or you're going to mess up all kinds of geometry. Guess you could always adjust your caster that way if you felt comfortable, so that's a plus.
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- #774
I don’t know how long it’s been completely broken in half and no, I didn’t really notice sloppier than normal handing. No wonder the front was articulating so well on my last trip. Remember the hitch pin mod where guys would replace the forward bolt on one side with a hitch pin they could remove for trail duty thereby freeing up the front end to flex better?
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- Thread starter
- #775
No one’s brackets are welded all the way up. Near the top, the gap between the bracket and housing is too big to weld. There is no way to get into those narrow places to remove paint and prep for a weld short of blasting.
That small bar that’s welded on at the very top is a bit recessed. Beside and slightly above it is a tab mount for the brake line and just behind it is the sway bar bracket so that little bar is “down in a hole”.
I may just add a gusset too the inside even if it might catch a pointed rock. Two gussets will no doubt do more for lateral and vertical support than that tiny horizontal piece up top.
The passenger side reinforcement process will be more challenging due it’s proximity to the differential.
I think the absolute best solution would be to start fresh with a good housing, blast it, and then do all the typical upgrades plus arm bracket reinforcements.
As our previous private conversation I agree a new housing would be the best bet.
I’m aware of everything you’re saying As I crawled around underneath my rig before I posted.
you will get it figured out. I think the top piece of metal was welded on there from the factory for a reason.
Looks like you got more welding to do dude!!! I would use a spare tire before i trust those 8" CMUs....I am sure you have seen those Karate Chops videos right? lol
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- #778
I’m not understanding any of this.
I think he's calling you a hillbilly. 
lol...CMU = concrete masonry unit---or Cinder block as most hillbilly calls it...
