Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Plugs look to be in good condition. I would guess less than 50K miles. Just out of curiosity what was the date stamp on the wires?
The plug wires that fired these plugs are Bosch Ultra. I don’t see a date on the wires. I’m very happy with the condition of the old plugs though.
 
Last edited:
There’s nothing posted here that hasn’t already been entered into the Mud archives but I’m recording this info for my own records.

I decided that after 27 years and 301k miles the gas tank and associated components deserved a look see. My interests were cleanliness of the tank interior, wire harness condition, connections and fuel pump strainer.

What I found when I dropped the tank was an inch of dried mud on top and in the skid pan. The upper wire connector was also full of crud but showed no signs of corrosion.

The inside of the tank was basically spotless as well as the pump strainer. To my knowledge the pump and strainer were original.

Back in 2017 I ended up on a large rock and put a dent in the bottom of the tank so I also wanted to swap in the 1994 tank that I saved from the GreenMachine that I rolled and began this thread with back in 2015. It was also very clean inside.

About 5 years ago I bought an Aisin fuel pump from CruiserParts.net to carry as a trail spare. I decided to go ahead and install it along with a new OEM strainer even though the old parts were fine. Both of my old pumps seemed to run just as strong as the new one when connected to 12v but they were somewhat more noisy, especially the 94 unit.

Three years ago I purchased a new filler hose, vent hose, and hard line to tank pressure hose and they have been waiting on the shelf. The old vent hose was a little bit hard but fine. The larger filler hose was quite hard but not brittle. The pressure hose from the plump outlet was still about like new so I wouldn’t advise spending money on one. I replaced the short rubber sections of fuel return hose and vapor recovery hose with Gates Barricade 1/4” from Napa. It’s very flexible like the oem stuff and at $3.09/ft it better be just as good.

Removing the rear driveline and my aftermarket skid plate made the small amount of additional clearance needed for easier removal and installation of the tank.
61968CDF-6057-4465-A2F6-A4404BB030AB.jpeg
250AD83A-7936-4E88-B012-CBB22E652BC8.jpeg
4400F9FD-3931-4601-9A9C-3B6B65EB1A12.jpeg
6B26953F-D0B7-4252-A5DA-FD26B4CD3ECC.jpeg
557BBC49-CCE8-4678-A355-4F95668EF68B.jpeg
 
Posted out of sequence....

 
I rolled my 94 and the body is done but mechanicals are fine. I want to pick up an 80 preferably one that's not operational so I have a foundation to build on with my parts. I prefer 94-earlier. I'm in CA so smog is an issue but I think that a newer model engine in and older cruiser would be no problem.
Are there any major reasons why I would not want to attempt to put all my running gear in a 91-92? These years are the cheapest to pick up.

View attachment 1190832
Hope your okay and don’t look like the 80. That’s great that you made it out safe.

just wondering though, how did you roll the 80? Bad lines? Followed someone that didn’t know what they were doing? Side tracked from a Jeep full of bikini women? Driver error?
 
Hope your okay and don’t look like the 80. That’s great that you made it out safe.

just wondering though, how did you roll the 80? Bad lines? Followed someone that didn’t know what they were doing? Side tracked from a Jeep full of bikini women? Driver error?
I was coming down (headed south) Mormon Emigrant Trail after a snow wheeling day. When I got down the hill far enough that the roadway was this thick, hard packed snow, rather than deep powdery snow, which was like ice, my rear wheels skipped over into a different rut than the fronts and I was never able to recover. The rear end spun around to the right and I went off the left side of the road and down a steep incline rolling 2.5 times ending up on the passengers side down in the trees. I was probably traveling only 20 mph but obviously faster that I should have.
 
I see you are a fan of DC4 also😉
I just did my tank filter, it was spotless inside the tank. Shocked as it has 283,000 miles. But this machine appears as if it’s never been off-road!
 
I see you are a fan of DC4 also😉
I just did my tank filter, it was spotless inside the tank. Shocked as it has 283,000 miles. But this machine appears as if it’s never been off-road!
DC4???
 

The green tube in this picture, the way it is soiled it looks like a tube of Dow Corning 4, dielectric compound(silicone lubricant). It’s great stuff :hillbilly:

1589406383750.jpeg
 
The green tube in this picture, the way it is soiled it looks like a tube of Dow Corning 4, dielectric compound(silicone lubricant). It’s great stuff :hillbilly:

View attachment 2305251
Oh, yeah, I’ve had that tube for many years. I use some when I put connectors back together.
 
Yup, I use it for hose lubrication, heater hoses come off easy when you smear a little bit on when you install them. I lube all my brake sliders that have rubber boots. I even use it to lube brake seals during assembly but I have had people tell me it’s no good there, but been doing it that way for 20 plus years. You only need a very light film.

Cheers
 
Those tanks look to be in great shape. To bad the 2nd wont fit in the rear???
You are going to have a brand new refurbished 80 if you keep this up.
 
Those tanks look to be in great shape. To bad the 2nd wont fit in the rear???
You are going to have a brand new refurbished 80 if you keep this up.
I’m pretty much where I envisioned the extent parts replacement for reliability at this point. Next up I’ll install the ARP hub and knuckle studs that have been stashed away for a while.
 
A week ago while swapping in ARP hub and knuckle studs I noticed that my rig finally developed the notorious track bar bracket and associated frame cracks. After thinking about what to do, I decided to cut the bracket off and start fresh with fish plates on both sides of the frame and my own track bar bracket constructed of 1/4” plate steel and fully welded on the outside and as much as possible, the inside too.

167ADAE8-D85D-4F6C-9739-694130B4EC15.jpeg
CBFDCB68-0C7A-4443-8657-E9414DF145B1.jpeg
6C0153EC-78AA-4EB1-8FCF-362662AA6531.jpeg
CFF336A1-E8EC-41A1-9E30-382CF5D80919.jpeg
D4A23ACE-AF37-419B-B7A9-1D6BBE9318D0.jpeg
 
Nice work...
Did you lower the bolt hole to flatten out the panhard?
 
Nice work...
Did you lower the bolt hole to flatten out the panhard?
No, I got the bolt hole very close to stock drop and parallel with the drag link so as to avoid bump steer. The only purpose here was to reduce the chances of catastrophic failure and the hope of never needing to deal with these cracks again.
 
All painted up with Rustoleum primer and semi-gloss and clear coated with matte finish Duplicolor wheel clear coat I’ve had left over for a couple years. I like the matte finish.

B580200C-D81E-4D00-AA94-4D409BE0E5C4.jpeg
E3B4A8F1-E207-4E72-9B80-D569130F5FAA.jpeg
D61FBE13-65E0-406E-8201-AFAE2CE961C6.jpeg
B2CD88DB-C7A3-4651-A342-F1CBD7CB158D.jpeg
D271B130-1121-4AC5-B88B-5144884524C5.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom