Recommended maintenance at 120k - any additional items? (1 Viewer)

[ATXLX570]

My 2013 LX570 is nearing 120k on the clock, and I'm planning the maintenance. The manual recommends the usual fluid changes:
- AHC fluid
- brake fluid
- engine oil
- front / rear diff oil
- transmission oil

Plus new spark plugs, air filters, and numerous items to inspect and lubricate. Are there other items like a coolant flush that are recommended as well? This is primarily a mall crusher, so the only extreme conditions are stop and go traffic and high heat in the summer + some cold and snow in the winter. I am planning to have this done at the dealer.

Thanks for any recommendations.

 

[fjcruising]

My 2013 LX570 is nearing 120k on the clock, and I'm planning the maintenance. The manual recommends the usual fluid changes:
- AHC fluid
- brake fluid
- engine oil
- front / rear diff oil
- transmission oil

Plus new spark plugs, air filters, and numerous items to inspect and lubricate. Are there other items like a coolant flush that are recommended as well? This is primarily a mall crusher, so the only extreme conditions are stop and go traffic and high heat in the summer + some cold and snow in the winter. I am planning to have this done at the dealer.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Don’t forget the transfer case. I am planning on doing the AHC fluid on the next one but the crazy part is the dealer talked me out of it. They said they never touch it unless it’s leaking which kind of blew my mind but if they say so??? I turned back to the service manual and there it is... For the most part I trust those guys but it just goes to show me .

 

[bloc]

My 2013 LX570 is nearing 120k on the clock, and I'm planning the maintenance. The manual recommends the usual fluid changes:
- AHC fluid
- brake fluid
- engine oil
- front / rear diff oil
- transmission oil

Plus new spark plugs, air filters, and numerous items to inspect and lubricate. Are there other items like a coolant flush that are recommended as well? This is primarily a mall crusher, so the only extreme conditions are stop and go traffic and high heat in the summer + some cold and snow in the winter. I am planning to have this done at the dealer.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Have you checked the radiator for cracks yet? Very common issue from 80 up to 120k. Some people put water pump on the PM list around there.. I got mine at 105k and it needed a radiator, so I did the pump and thermostat at the same time.

Coolant is approx 100k. Dumping and refilling about now would be good practice.

Some people, especially those that do lots of solo trips, put starter in the PM list too. Pretty expensive repair.. the problem is when they go out they usually do so without warning. Bypassing is possible though it requires jumper cables, two people, a very long phillips screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape, and specific knowledge of the spot you need to contact deep in the bowels of the passenger side of the engine.

Don’t forget the transfer case. I am planning on doing the AHC fluid on the next one but the crazy part is the dealer talked me out of it. They said they never touch it unless it’s leaking which kind of blew my mind but if they say so??? I turned back to the service manual and there it is... For the most part I trust those guys but it just goes to show me .

That to me says they ran into problems when doing it in the past and don't want to take the risk. Very rare for a dealer service department to turn down the chance to make some money. And usually when they do, it's because it cost them money in the past.

 

[fasteddie2015]

Add plugs to your list. Looks like you’re in Austin from your screen name. If you need a mechanic I highly recommend Bearden. No skin in the game, I just have had great luck there.

 

[tominboise]

R&R spark plugs, starter and radiator.

 

[Itsky]

What is the ballpark price for an Indy shop for radiator, water pump, starter and hoses and belts and fluids?

 

[tincan45]

Check your AHC fluid in the reservoir. If it's black, change it. If it's clear don't worry about it. Just because they don't have issues with it doesn't mean it won't be an issue or time. AHC and transmission are both examples of this.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

What is the ballpark price for an Indy shop for radiator, water pump, starter and hoses and belts and fluids?

I have a 2013 lx with 93,000 miles. I purchased last year and completed the following maintenance.

I ordered my parts online from a local toyota that discounted the parts about 30 percent. I brought to mechanic except for the transmission fluid exchange.

The radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, idler pulley, tensioner, and serpatine belt is about 3.5 hours of labor. So, labor should be about $350 for those items. I shopped around till an independent shop agreed that it is only a 3.5 labor hours. Some thought that each item should separate billable hours. That didn't make sense. I checked on this board and found a great local independent shop.

I was charged $60 (0.5) for labor for changing of transfer case, front differential, and rear differential. I did order online from advance auto parts mobil gear oil for front differential and rear differential. I ordered online from Toyota Dealership for the 75 w transfer case oil based on the blackstone lab test results. It is a unique additive package.

I paid about $200 at a toyota dealership transmission fluid exchange. They used ws fluid for the transmission. Another supporter of this board. It was less than one hour of labor.

I have not had my starter replaced yet. Book time is 5.5 hours. So, the starter price is about $370 discounted. brand new from a toyota dealership and about $600 for labor.

That should give you an idea. Don't be afraid to call around. If you decide to go with a toyota and/or lexus dealership then costco member receive 15 % off.

 

[Itsky]

I have a 2013 lx with 93,000 miles. I purchased last year and completed the following maintenance.

I ordered my parts online from a local toyota that discounted the parts about 30 percent. I brought to mechanic except for the transmission fluid exchange.

The radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, idler pulley, tensioner, and belts is about 3.5 hours of labor. So, labor should be about $350 for those items. I shopped around till an independent shop agreed that it is only a 3.5 labor hours. Some thought that each item should separate billable hours. That didn't make sense. I checked on this board and found a great local independent shop.

I was charged $60 (0.5) for labor for changing of transfer case, front differential, and rear differential. I did order online from advance auto parts mobil gear oil for front differential and rear differential. I ordered online from Toyota Dealership for the 75 w transfer case oil based on the blackstone lab test results. It is a unique additive package.

I paid about $200 at a toyota dealership transmission fluid exchange. They used ws fluid for the transmission. Another supporter of this board. It was less than one hour of labor.

I have not had my starter replaced yet. Book time is 5.5 hours. So, the starter price is about $370 discounted. brand new from a toyota dealership and about $600 for labor.

That should give you an idea. Don't be afraid to call around. If you decide to go with a toyota and/or lexus dealership then costco member receive 15 % off.

wow that was the best answer ever! Thanks for hooking me up with all of that great info! Really appreciate it!!

 

[ATXLX570]

Thank you all for the very detailed answers! This is great help, but I am surprised about proactively replacing the radiator + associated parts. Is this really a common failure item on a modern land cruiser / lx?

 

[32cls6speedmt]

There is a long thread about radiator failure with a lot of great photos. It starts with a hairline crack at the top. Then expands over time. Mine was not leaking but replaced due to the crack formation.

 

[Hatteras]

Is this really a common failure item on a modern land cruiser / lx?

Yup

 

[bloc]

Thank you all for the very detailed answers! This is great help, but I am surprised about proactively replacing the radiator + associated parts. Is this really a common failure item on a modern land cruiser / lx?

Very common. Lots of people seem upset about this but IMO it’s very easy to track, always fails in the same place, and between this and the short list of other common problems there is still very little we have to worry about on these trucks. Compare that concept to almost any other competitive vehicle that can have a huge variety of issues.

The new toyota radiator (same part number) has been updated in a way that seems to address the issue. No one has put enough miles on a new one to tell for sure though.

 

[BigMF]

Very common. Lots of people seem upset about this but IMO it’s very easy to track, always fails in the same place, and between this and the short list of other common problems there is still very little we have to worry about on these trucks. Compare that concept to almost any other competitive vehicle that can have a huge variety of issues.

I've taken a look at my 2011 LX radiator and saw no signs of the dreaded crack. I'm at 126K miles and crossing my fingers and praying that I got a good one that will not fail for a long time to come. What is the rest of the "short list" of other common problems you refer to? I'd like to know what to be on the lookout for?

 

[bloc]

I've taken a look at my 2011 LX radiator and saw no signs of the dreaded crack. I'm at 126K miles and crossing my fingers and praying that I got a good one that will not fail for a long time to come. What is the rest of the "short list" of other common problems you refer to? I'd like to know what to be on the lookout for?

Water pump on the 5.7 is commonly an issue before 100k. That won’t fail dramatically, just weep. you’ll smell coolant and if you look closely see a pink crust running down the front of the housing from the shaft, or if you use a mirror see it collected in the back of the pulley.

Some people that often go remote places solo do the starter as PM. It’s a big job and the majority don’t fail, the problem is if it does fail you can’t get the truck started without a rare tool (very long screwdriver), jumper cables, and an extra person. The issue isn’t the motor or brushes, it is the solenoid. And usually when it goes it’s totally sudden with no warning. If your truck never leaves civilization don’t worry about it as you can quickly/cheaply get towed.

I might be blanking on other things.. will update if I remember any more