I'm looking to connect with someone who has done a F2 to vortech swap. The good ,bad, and ugly and what not to do.Parts I need ect. Thanks,Brycruiser
Recipe for vortech swap in my 60 (1 Viewer)
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I'm trying to decide,the more I read the more confused I get on the best fit.Thanks,BT
What is your budget ?
You looking at doing this on the least amount of cash?
What will you be using the rig for? Any towing?
Have you looked at the project build up directory ?
Have you consider a diesel transplant.
The good is lots more grunt...
the bad is it can get expensive and complicated quickly.
Any mud clubs in your area ?
I would attend to one of their meeting and see if anybody could share some knowledge
You looking at doing this on the least amount of cash?
What will you be using the rig for? Any towing?
Have you looked at the project build up directory ?
Have you consider a diesel transplant.
The good is lots more grunt...
the bad is it can get expensive and complicated quickly.
Any mud clubs in your area ?
I would attend to one of their meeting and see if anybody could share some knowledge
I don't think I've ever heard anyone with a 5.3 complain about not having enough torque or power in their 60...I mean, in the useful day-to-day rpm range (1500-3500), it's about 50-60% more torque than a 2F, and the redline is about 2500 rpms higher...
Just for reference, the 5.3 is putting out as much horsepower at 1200 rpms as the 2F does at 2400. Yeesh.
Here are some power/torque charts for comparison:
5.3
6.0
I couldn't find one for the 5.7L, but I think it's safe to assume it's in between.
So, it's only really above 3500 rpms that the 6.0L starts to show its grunt compared to the 5.3. It looks like it's maybe 10% behind until the 6.0L has that big jump in torque at 3500, and even that only goes to a maximum that's about 20% more than the 5.3L. You'd feel the difference, but it's not a huge one.
Now, from here on out is just opinion:
1. I just can't see that extra torque being terribly useful unless you've got a big trailer that you like to take up the passes. In the left lane. Might be nice for mudding, though, if you've got 37s and need to keep up that wheelspin...
2. At crawling speeds, they're pretty much identical, though, torque-wise. You'd definitely feel the extra grunt from the bigger engine, but unless you've got the giant tires/big trailer, I can't imagine you being disappointed with a 5.3.
Just for reference, the 5.3 is putting out as much horsepower at 1200 rpms as the 2F does at 2400. Yeesh.
Here are some power/torque charts for comparison:
5.3
6.0
I couldn't find one for the 5.7L, but I think it's safe to assume it's in between.
So, it's only really above 3500 rpms that the 6.0L starts to show its grunt compared to the 5.3. It looks like it's maybe 10% behind until the 6.0L has that big jump in torque at 3500, and even that only goes to a maximum that's about 20% more than the 5.3L. You'd feel the difference, but it's not a huge one.
Now, from here on out is just opinion:
1. I just can't see that extra torque being terribly useful unless you've got a big trailer that you like to take up the passes. In the left lane. Might be nice for mudding, though, if you've got 37s and need to keep up that wheelspin...
2. At crawling speeds, they're pretty much identical, though, torque-wise. You'd definitely feel the extra grunt from the bigger engine, but unless you've got the giant tires/big trailer, I can't imagine you being disappointed with a 5.3.
Describe you goals, intended usage, mechanical abliity, tools (welder?), ans so on...
Then maybe people can point you in the right direction.
FWIW... I LOVE, LOVE my 5.3 swap. Makes the truck way more capable.
And it was not that difficult with the help of mudders and google. ]
Good luck
Then maybe people can point you in the right direction.
FWIW... I LOVE, LOVE my 5.3 swap. Makes the truck way more capable.
And it was not that difficult with the help of mudders and google. ]
Good luck
I am looking to do the same thing with my 60 but I am going to use a 4.8L. My question is how is the fire wall clearance with the LS engines when using the advanced adapter bell housing? I know with the older generation of GM engines there is definatly clearance issues if you plan to leave the transmission in its origional location. Is this still an issue with the LS?
Do you have an h55f? Honestly if you are going to mate a 4.8 to the 4spd I would seriously reconsider unless this is an off road only deal. Even then the 4l60e auto is better off road than the 4spd. It will only cost you a few hundred more which put into perspective with what this swap is going to cost you is only about 10% more money.
I have a dedicated trail rig so mine is not gonna see much off road maybe a few beach runs a year and some light camping trips. I am just looking for some more power to pull the 33" or 35"s on the highway. Swaping the v8 in with the 4spd and leaving the 3.7 gearing should give me some decent rubber over drive with the larger tires. Honestly I am hung between keeping the 4spd or building my own adapter for my r150/r151f hybrid. but doing that would be at the cost of loosing my spare trans for my trail rig.
If you want a driver I would really consider just running a 4l60e. You can get them dirt cheap used and they have a great 1st gear and overdrive. It won't cost you anymore to adapt the 4l60e to your split case than adapting the 4.8 to the 4spd. Plus most of these motors are setup to run with the auto anyway so if you run it you take care of the vss and make wiring it a bit easier. If you want to run a manual the nv4500 is hard to beat.
The 4spd has a horrible first gear and no overdrive. Its a pretty lame transmission overall. It has nothing going for it. I run a tbi5.7/4l60e and 35s and its great off road and runs 80-85mph down the highway comfortably. If I keep it around 70 I get 17mpg. With the 4.8 and auto I really wouldn't doubt you could squeeze 18-19 mpg out of your 60. Not that I really care about mpg but it was a nice surprise.
The 4spd has a horrible first gear and no overdrive. Its a pretty lame transmission overall. It has nothing going for it. I run a tbi5.7/4l60e and 35s and its great off road and runs 80-85mph down the highway comfortably. If I keep it around 70 I get 17mpg. With the 4.8 and auto I really wouldn't doubt you could squeeze 18-19 mpg out of your 60. Not that I really care about mpg but it was a nice surprise.
4L60E gear ratios: 1st 3.059:1, 2nd 1.625:1, 3rd 1.000:1, 4th .0696:1, Reverse 2.294:1
H42 Transmission: 1st 3.555:1, 2nd 2.292:1, 3rd 1.410:1, 4th 1.000:1, Reverse 4.271:1
4 speed has a deeper first gear than the 4l60e.
Any how this still does not answer my question of fire wall clearance when using the LS engine with the Advanced Adapter bell housing? Any one??
H42 Transmission: 1st 3.555:1, 2nd 2.292:1, 3rd 1.410:1, 4th 1.000:1, Reverse 4.271:1
4 speed has a deeper first gear than the 4l60e.
Any how this still does not answer my question of fire wall clearance when using the LS engine with the Advanced Adapter bell housing? Any one??
I think I've seen at least one person have to "massage" the firewall for a proper fit.
With x-member in stock location, I think you will run into hitting the oil pan on the diff.
I absolutely second what Kurtis said. The h42 would not be ideal for the v8. It works fine for the 2f because it makes a lot less power, but the gearing would feel really short with a v8 IMHO.
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Kurtis,Thanks for that info ,I was thinking about leaving the 373's alone.Now I'm thinking a 700r4 with a ford torque converter.I've heard that is the trick setup.Thanks,BT
ntsqd
technerd
Already been mentioned, but most torque converters have at least a 2.5:1 torque multiplication when not stalled. So that 3.059 first just became at least a 7.65:1 first gear.
if by older engine you are talking about the 5.7 ...there are no clearance issues with the firewall and running a marks adapter. There is not a lot of room between the radiator core and the radiator fan but its workable.
I have the Downey adaptor and 5.3 with an h42. Stock 3.7 gears and 35s. The h42 has held up incredibly well. I drop the clutch, bounce of the rev limiter in 1st, 2nd and 3rd and my transmission had 260k on it. I have a spare sitting in the garage that I have to rebuild the transfer case on and then it's going in.
I had to massage the firewall a little bit near the heads to keep the transmission in close to the stock location. I think it's about an inch or so forward of stock. The shifter is 1/4" off the dash. Kept my driveshafts stock. I'd assume the spacing of the AA bell housing would be almost identical.
I beat her up pretty good in the woods in VT. Wheeling with built wheeling heeps. I've been to Moab a couple times since swapping too. Still on my original clutch, which I bought used.
There are times when lower gears would be nice, but I like the rubber overdrive going to and from trails.
I had to massage the firewall a little bit near the heads to keep the transmission in close to the stock location. I think it's about an inch or so forward of stock. The shifter is 1/4" off the dash. Kept my driveshafts stock. I'd assume the spacing of the AA bell housing would be almost identical.
I beat her up pretty good in the woods in VT. Wheeling with built wheeling heeps. I've been to Moab a couple times since swapping too. Still on my original clutch, which I bought used.
There are times when lower gears would be nice, but I like the rubber overdrive going to and from trails.
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You should go read some of the engine swap threads if you have not already done so. I don't think there is a best fit, but from my experience and based on what I've seen here.... the 5.7 is a good choice along with the 5.3.
There are plenty of different views about things but in my book you should look at engine/transmission combinations that are stock configurations, which will cause you fewer problems.
Very first consideration is what fabrication skills do you have and understanding of wiring and mechanical issues. I'm not sure there is a best fit.
If I were to do my swap again I would probally get a 5.3 engine with matching 4l60E transmission and adapt the transmission to the toyota split transfer case with an adapter from advance. I would run a howell stand alone engine harness. and modified PCM.
I would not run the 4.8 engine.
