Rebuilt F. Cold valve initial setting... (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Better pic
IMG_20220719_104549.jpg
 
Yup, not seated. That’s your problem. 😢
 
Thanks mark. 💀. I will update tomorrow.
 
Tragic, but not fatal, I hope. Trashed at least one bearing, the rear. Plan to replace all, polish the crank, life goes on.

IMG_20220720_133849.jpg


IMG_20220720_133923.jpg


IMG_20220720_133931.jpg
 
Bram

Pro tip: when you go to reinstall the distributor, set it in DELIBERATELY off the proper rotation once, just so you know what the non-seated gap to the clamp looks like. When it's seated, you should see about 1/8" less.😉
 
Last edited:
Thanks @65swb45 , I got it to seat all the way down yesterday, thought briefly of starting her up (this is prior to the tear down), stoked I didnt. Hopefully someone else learns from my mistake.

Tear down was harder than I thought. Drained oil. Dropped oil pan. The big nut on the crank would not turn the motor over at all. We loosened all the valves, still nothing. Front bearing caps couldnt be removed without taking the timing cover off. Drained the coolant, removed radiator plus bracket after the bib. took off the timing cover, then the large timing gear, and put the large nut back on. Crank would turn but squeal at the rear most bearing. Took off the cap to inspect, see the results above.

Learning so much from this entire experience, frustrating at times, but fun and it keeps me out of trouble. This forum is awesome! Would never have attempted any of this without the knowledge you guys have shared.
 
Thanks @65swb45 , I got it to seat all the way down yesterday, thought briefly of starting her up (this is prior to the tear down), stoked I didnt. Hopefully someone else learns from my mistake.

Tear down was harder than I thought. Drained oil. Dropped oil pan. The big nut on the crank would not turn the motor over at all. We loosened all the valves, still nothing. Front bearing caps couldnt be removed without taking the timing cover off. Drained the coolant, removed radiator plus bracket after the bib. took off the timing cover, then the large timing gear, and put the large nut back on. Crank would turn but squeal at the rear most bearing. Took off the cap to inspect, see the results above.

Learning so much from this entire experience, frustrating at times, but fun and it keeps me out of trouble. This forum is awesome! Would never have attempted any of this without the knowledge you guys have shared.
You sound so circumspect. I’d still be throwing wrenches. :banghead:

I bought my first LC from a guy who did this…twice! So I was one of the fortunate few that were forewarned.
 
Got your message, I haven’t seen any F engine main bearings in several years. And since they come in several flavors, before I turn the dogs loose looking for some, it would help to know: standard, .010, .020…?
 
@65swb45 , I left you a message on your machine.

I'm going to pull the motor, and put it on a stand so that it's easier to check the bearings and clearances. Does this hook look legit? I found it in my parts stash. Did not use it the first time i pulled the motor out. Appears to fit the rear driver side of the head, but only one bolt hole, seems shady.
IMG_20220724_093154.jpg
 
Another question for the gurus.....any problem leaving the water pump, t-stat, and manifolds on while I pull the motor and then after its pulled, when on the stand and inverted 180. I drained the oil, I'm sure there is still some in the nooks and crannies. I will open the coolant block drain and try to keep this as clean as possible. I'm not sure if inverting the engine will push oil or coolant somewhere I don't want it to go.
 
@65swb45 , I left you a message on your machine.

I'm going to pull the motor, and put it on a stand so that it's easier to check the bearings and clearances. Does this hook look legit? I found it in my parts stash. Did not use it the first time i pulled the motor out. Appears to fit the rear driver side of the head, but only one bolt hole, seems shady. View attachment 3067769
Yes, that is the rear drivers side engine hook, and no problem leaving the other items in place.
 
As @firemanj92 said, the hook is legitimate for your year engine .

I would pull the thermostat and replace. Had a bad experience 30 years ago with a new thermostat that stuck after only two hours of air exposure.
I don’t give my customers an option; the only thing worse than draining the cooling system is doing it twice because of a thermostat you COULD have changed but didn’t. :banghead:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom