Rebuilt carb, gas leaking into the second barrel? (Pics and vid) (1 Viewer)

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This is an update to this post - I rebuilt the carb with a Hygrade kit and gas is leaking into the barrel. Anyone have the "duh" for me on this one before I tear it down again? Sticking float? Sticking accelerator pump?

Video is a lot more useful than the below pic - that's here. You gotta download it, because I'm too incompetent to figure out how to embed it. Sorry!


Pic:
IMG_2011.JPG
 
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Re: sight glass, Honestly I can't remember - this was 9 mos ago now and I'm iffy about starting it again with the issue. Link should be downloadable now.
 

rkymtnflyfisher

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Is that gas pouring out of there without turning the engine over?


Like the fuel bowl is getting overfilled?


Check that needle valve for crud on it, and make sure the float is set properly.
 
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It's while running and just after cutting the engine off. Either the bowl is getting overfilled or I screwed something else up and it's leaking somehow... Roger that on both - will look.
 
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Well, float measures out fine. No crud on the needle valve, but there's definitely crud in the bowl. I pulled the venturis off, jets out, etc and gave it all a good spray. No idea how that crap is getting past my filter, but it apparently is.

But could that cause TOO MUCH gas?
 
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Here's a photo. Any thoughts on:

1. What's the crud?
2. Is the jet in the secondary meant to stick out that much further than the one in the primary (they're both tight - the red gaskets struck me weird)?
IMG_2486.JPG
 
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There's a clear one on there now - I have a new OEM filter but haven't installed it yet (don't want to clog that one too)

Here's a crummy shot of the debris in the bottom:
Screen Shot 2021-03-25 at 6.12.41 PM.png
 

MadMace

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That crud in the bowl is why you are overflowing at times. That gunk will block the needle valve from closing, then gets washed down into the bowl so might fill normally for a little bit until the next chunk of crud gets stuck again.

You might want to think about blowing out your lines. Another thing you could do is remove the carb, disconnect the ignitor. Then, have somebody turn over the engine so you can catch some of the fuel coming through the fuel line. You can see how much gunk is flowing out of the lines.
 
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Stock metal. And thanks for the earlier suggestions - will do both.

Edit: to clarify, it's rubber to the filter, then short rubber to the pump. From pump to carb is the stock metal line.
 

MadMace

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So you could have 2 things going on. First is the gas tank. Drain it through the plug and see what comes out (mine is a 1974 and is under the passenger seat). Second, I remember @65swb45 talking about a carb he rebuilt kept getting clogged up after he would reattach it and run it for a little. Ended up that the metal fuel line in between the fuel pump and the carb was lined with crud. I recall him saying something about that being why he uses new fuel lines.
 

MadMace

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If you‘re so inclined, no reason you couldn’t attach a second clear fuel filter right before the carb. An extra line of defense so you don’t have to keep pulling the top off your carb to clean the needle valve out.
 
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Funny, that was my plan - the second clear filter - maybe I'll run new fuel hose to the carb from the pump, too.

I've blasted out the needle valve - you think it's necessary to remove that e-clip and ball bearing underneath too, then respray?
 

MadMace

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Does the needle valve still have its little rubber tip on it?

I am not aware of a small ball bearing associated with the needle valve. Mine looked like the picture below.

There is a small ball bearing associated with the pump plunger but I don’t see why you’d need to mess with that.

562F4234-14BC-4C12-93DD-5B7C89EBB4CE.jpeg
 

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